{"title":"QT fish","description":null,"products":[{"product_id":"blue-hippo-tang","title":"Blue Hippo Tang","description":"\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eQUICK STATS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCare Level:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Moderate\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eDiet:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Omnivore \/ Herbivore-Leaning\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTemperament:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Peaceful to Semi-Aggressive\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eReef-Safe:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Yes\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eVenomous\/Toxic:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e No\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eApproximate Purchase Size:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 1.5-4\"\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eApproximate Max Size:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Around 10-12\"\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eRecommended Tank Size:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 180 Gallons or Larger\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eBLUE HIPPO TANG\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThe \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eBlue Hippo Tang\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e (\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan\u003eParacanthurus hepatus\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cspan\u003e), also known as the \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eRegal Blue Tang\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e, \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePalette Surgeonfish\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e, \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePacific Blue Tang\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e, or simply \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eBlue Tang\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e, is one of the most recognizable saltwater aquarium fish in the world. It is known for its bright royal blue body, black palette-shaped pattern, yellow tail, active swimming behavior, and permanent association with a cartoon fish that launched countless questionable stocking decisions.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eBlue Hippo Tangs are active reef fish that need a large aquarium, open swimming room, stable water quality, strong filtration, and a varied diet. They are peaceful compared to many tangs, but they are still surgeonfish and can become territorial toward other tangs or similarly shaped fish as they mature.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThis species is considered \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ereef-safe\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e and should not bother corals or most invertebrates when properly fed. However, it is not a small-tank fish. Juveniles may be tiny and adorable at purchase size, but adult Blue Hippo Tangs are large, fast, active swimmers that require serious space. Cute baby fish are just future tank requirements wearing better marketing.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eNote:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Image is a representation of what to expect. The fish you receive may vary slightly in size, color intensity, markings, maturity, and overall appearance.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAQUARIUM REQUIREMENTS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAQUARIUM SIZE\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eA minimum tank size of \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e180 gallons or larger\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e is recommended for a Blue Hippo Tang. While juveniles are often sold at a much smaller size, long-term care should be planned around adult size, swimming behavior, and overall activity level.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTank length and open swimming space are extremely important. A long aquarium with clear swimming lanes is much better than a tall narrow tank pretending volume alone solves everything. Blue Hippo Tangs are active swimmers, not decorative blue bookmarks for your aquascape.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eHABITAT RECOMMENDATIONS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eBlue Hippo Tangs do best in large, mature aquariums with open swimming space, stable rockwork, strong filtration, high oxygenation, and secure hiding areas.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAquascaping:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Provide long open swimming lanes along with stable rock structures for shelter, grazing, and retreat. Avoid overly dense aquascapes that block movement.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSubstrate:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Sand, fine aragonite, crushed coral, or bare-bottom systems can all work. This species does not depend heavily on the substrate.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eRockwork:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Live rock is strongly recommended. It provides hiding places, grazing surfaces, biological filtration, and territory.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTank Maturity:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e A mature aquarium is strongly preferred. Established systems provide more stable water quality, better biological filtration, and natural grazing surfaces.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eHiding Places:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Provide caves, overhangs, and crevices. Juvenile Blue Hippo Tangs often wedge themselves into rockwork or coral branches when frightened, because apparently hiding like a blue potato is a valid survival strategy.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFiltration \u0026amp; Oxygenation:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Strong filtration, stable water quality, and high oxygenation are important. This fish is active and produces a noticeable bioload as it grows.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTank Cover:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e A tight-fitting lid is recommended. Large startled fish can still make sudden athletic mistakes, and the floor remains a deeply committed villain.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWATER PARAMETERS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eBlue Hippo Tangs need clean, stable marine conditions and do best in large, well-oxygenated aquariums. “Hardy once established” does not mean “immune to unstable water,” though apparently reef keeping needed that clarified in writing.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTemperature:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 72-78°F\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003epH Level:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 8.1-8.4\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSalinity:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 1.020-1.026 specific gravity\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAmmonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Ammonia and nitrite should remain undetectable. Nitrate should be kept as low as reasonably possible, ideally below 20 ppm.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWater Flow:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Moderate to strong water movement is ideal. Provide strong oxygenation, efficient filtration, and enough flow to move waste toward filtration while still allowing comfortable swimming space.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eDIET\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eBlue Hippo Tangs are \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eomnivores with herbivore-leaning needs\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e. In the wild, they feed on zooplankton and algae, and in aquariums they should receive a varied diet with plenty of marine algae, vegetable matter, and high-quality meaty foods.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePRIMARY DIET\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFrozen Food:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Offer algae-rich frozen foods, mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, marine blends, and other high-quality frozen foods. We at Summit City Coral prefer frozen foods such as \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eLRS Herbivore Frenzy\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e and \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePE Mysis\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePrepared Herbivore Foods:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e High-quality herbivore pellets, marine algae pellets, spirulina flakes, and omnivore blends can help provide balanced nutrition.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAlgae-Based Foods:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Nori, seaweed sheets, spirulina, algae wafers, herbivore blends, and marine algae foods should be offered regularly. Clip seaweed sheets to the glass or rockwork so the tang can graze naturally.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMeaty Foods:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, krill, plankton, and marine blends can be included for variety. This species is not a strict algae-only grazer.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eNatural Grazing:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Established live rock with film algae and biofilm helps support natural feeding behavior. This should be viewed as supplemental, not the entire feeding plan. A Blue Hippo Tang is not a free algae-control employee with celebrity branding.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFEEDING FREQUENCY\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFeed small amounts \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e2-3 times per day\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e, with algae-based foods offered frequently. Blue Hippo Tangs do best with regular access to seaweed or algae-based foods, especially as they grow and become more active.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCOMPATIBILITY\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eBlue Hippo Tangs are generally peaceful to semi-aggressive and can work well in large reef aquariums with appropriate tank mates. They are often less aggressive than some other tangs, but they may still show territorial behavior toward other surgeonfish or similarly shaped algae grazers.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCOMMON TANK MATES\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFish:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Clownfish, cardinalfish, wrasses, gobies, blennies, rabbitfish, foxfaces, dwarf angelfish, larger peaceful fish, and other community reef fish.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAvoid:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Other tangs or surgeonfish in smaller aquariums unless the tank is large enough and introductions are carefully managed. Avoid aggressive fish that may constantly harass the tang, as stress can contribute to disease issues.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eOther Tangs:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Use caution when mixing with other tangs. Blue Hippo Tangs may coexist with other tangs in large aquariums, especially if body shapes differ and territories are well established, but introductions should be planned carefully.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSimilar Species:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Avoid crowding with other active surgeonfish in undersized systems. Tangs may look peaceful right up until they remember they are tangs.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eInvertebrates:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Usually safe with cleaner shrimp, hermit crabs, snails, urchins, and common cleanup crew animals.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCoral:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Blue Hippo Tangs are considered \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ereef-safe\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e and should not bother soft corals, LPS, SPS, zoanthids, mushrooms, clams, or anemones when well-fed. Like many herbivores and omnivores, underfed individuals may become more likely to investigate surfaces they should leave alone, because hunger remains a terrible advisor.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eBEHAVIORAL NOTES\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTemperament:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Peaceful to semi-aggressive. Usually calmer than many tangs, but may become territorial as it matures.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eActivity Level:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Very active swimmer that needs long open swimming paths and should not be cramped into undersized aquariums.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eReef Compatibility:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Excellent for reef tanks when properly fed. They generally ignore corals and most invertebrates.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eHiding Behavior:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Juveniles and stressed individuals may wedge into rockwork or tight spaces when frightened. This is normal behavior, even if it makes the fish look like it has chosen structural anxiety as a lifestyle.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eColoration:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Typically bright royal blue with a black palette-shaped marking and yellow tail. Color may fade or darken with stress, illness, lighting, or mood.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTang Scalpel:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Like other surgeonfish, Blue Hippo Tangs have sharp scalpel-like spines near the tail used for defense. Use caution when catching, transferring, or working around the fish. It is not venomous, just equipped with tiny biological hardware because fish apparently needed built-in tools.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eDisease Susceptibility:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Blue Hippo Tangs are well known for being prone to Marine Ich and other external parasites when stressed. Quarantine, observation, strong nutrition, stable water quality, and low-stress introduction are strongly recommended.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eShipping \u0026amp; Acclimation Sensitivity:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Can be sensitive during shipping and introduction. Provide hiding places, dim lighting, and peaceful tank mates while the fish settles in.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTank Size Reality:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e This is a large, active surgeonfish that should be planned around adult size, not purchase size. A tiny juvenile Blue Hippo Tang is not a nano fish. It is a future problem with excellent color saturation.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eJumping:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e A tight-fitting lid is recommended. Large fish can still make sudden, expensive mistakes.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eACCLIMATION PROCESS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThis acclimation method helps reduce stress by gradually introducing the fish to your aquarium’s temperature and water chemistry.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e1. TURN OFF THE LIGHTS \u0026amp; ATO\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTurn off aquarium lights to reduce stress. If you have an Auto Top Off system, switch it off before starting acclimation.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e2. FLOAT THE BAG\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFloat the sealed bag in the aquarium for \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e15-20 minutes\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e to allow the temperature in the bag to equalize with the tank.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e3. OPEN BAG, ADD FISH TO CONTAINER\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCarefully open the bag and transfer the fish and shipping water into a clean bucket or container.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e4. ACCLIMATE USING TANK WATER\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAdd \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e1\/4 cup of tank water\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e to the container every \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e5 minutes for 40 minutes\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e5. TRANSFER FISH TO AQUARIUM\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eOnce acclimation is complete, gently transfer the fish into the aquarium using a net or specimen container. Use caution near the tail spine when handling tangs. Discard the shipping water. Do not pour shipping water into your aquarium.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e6. REFILL THE AQUARIUM WITH SALTWATER\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eYou may need to replace the saltwater removed during acclimation with fresh mixed saltwater.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Summit City Coral","offers":[{"title":"Wild Small","offer_id":48833392083227,"sku":"bluehippotangws","price":69.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"Wild Medium","offer_id":48833392115995,"sku":"bluehippotangwm","price":120.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Wild Large","offer_id":50154216096027,"sku":"bluehippotangwl","price":180.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Aquacultured","offer_id":52312993431835,"sku":"bluehippotangaqc","price":69.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Trade-in","offer_id":52414529700123,"sku":"bluehippotangti","price":120.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0246\/5100\/5999\/files\/IMG_5282.jpg?v=1775745341"},{"product_id":"blonde-naso-tang","title":"Blonde Naso Tang","description":"\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eQUICK STATS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCare Level:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Moderate\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFish Type:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Tang \/ Surgeonfish \/ Unicornfish Relative\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eScientific Name:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan\u003eNaso elegans\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTemperament:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Peaceful to Semi-Aggressive\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eReef Safe:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Yes\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eDiet:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Herbivore \/ Omnivore With Heavy Algae Requirement\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAdult Size:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Up to Around 18\"\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMinimum Aquarium Size:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 180 Gallons Minimum \/ Larger Strongly Preferred\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSwimming Level:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Middle to Open Water \/ Rockwork Grazer\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eOrigin:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Indian Ocean, Red Sea, and Western Indian Ocean Reef Slopes and Lagoons\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eBLONDE NASO TANG\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThe \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eBlonde Naso Tang\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e, also called the \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eBlonde Lipstick Tang\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e, is a large, active surgeonfish known for its elegant body shape, yellow dorsal coloration, bold facial markings, and potential streamer development on mature adults. Depending on the specimen, it may show gray, tan, olive, black, yellow, orange, blue, or white accents across the body, face, fins, and tail.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThis species is scientifically known as \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eNaso elegans\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e. It is closely related to the standard Naso Tang, \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eNaso lituratus\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e, but the Blonde Naso Tang is generally associated with a brighter yellow dorsal region and Indian Ocean distribution. In plain English, it is the fancier-looking version, because apparently even tangs needed a deluxe trim package.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThe Blonde Naso Tang is best suited for large, established aquariums with strong filtration, open swimming space, mature rockwork, and frequent feeding. It is a powerful swimmer that spends much of its day cruising the aquarium and grazing. This is not a fish for small aquariums, short tanks, or “it is only little right now” logic, which remains one of humanity’s most persistent reef crimes.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThis fish is generally considered \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ereef safe\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e and is usually peaceful toward corals and invertebrates. However, it still needs a proper diet and plenty of room. Underfed tangs may become stressed, thin, aggressive, or more likely to pick at things they should ignore.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThe Blonde Naso Tang is typically calmer than many Acanthurus tangs, but it can still become territorial toward other large tangs, especially in cramped systems. It may coexist with other tangs in large aquariums when carefully introduced, but it should not be treated like a harmless golden retriever with fins. It is still a surgeonfish with a scalpel and opinions.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eNote:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Image is a representation of what to expect. The fish you receive may vary slightly in size, facial coloration, yellow intensity, body tone, streamer development, fin markings, and overall appearance.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAQUARIUM REQUIREMENTS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAQUARIUM SIZE\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eA minimum aquarium size of \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e180 gallons or larger\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e is recommended for a Blonde Naso Tang. Larger aquariums, especially long tanks with strong horizontal swimming space, are strongly preferred for adult specimens.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eBlonde Naso Tangs can grow large and need room to cruise. A juvenile may be sold small, but that does not make it a small-tank fish. Tiny Naso Tangs become large Naso Tangs, a shocking biological twist that continues to defeat people standing next to measuring tapes.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFor long-term care, prioritize tank length and open swimming space. A tall but short aquarium may hold a lot of gallons while still being poor for a fish that wants to swim forward like it has somewhere important to be.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAQUASCAPE RECOMMENDATIONS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eBlonde Naso Tangs need open swimming lanes, stable rockwork, and grazing surfaces.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eOpen Swimming Space:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Leave long open areas for cruising. Do not pack the aquarium wall-to-wall with rock.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eRockwork:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Provide mature live rock or established reef rock with algae film and grazing surfaces.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eHiding Areas:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Include caves, ledges, and sleeping spaces so the fish can retreat when stressed.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSecure Rockwork:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Make sure rock structures are stable. Large tangs can move quickly and may bump loose pieces.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eHigh Oxygen:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Use strong surface agitation, efficient filtration, and good water movement.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eStrong Filtration:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e This fish eats often and produces waste. The filtration system needs to keep up.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMature System:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Best kept in an established aquarium with stable parameters and consistent feeding.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThe Blonde Naso Tang is a large open-water cruiser, not a decorative wall ornament. Give it room to swim or pick a smaller fish. What a radical concept.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWATER PARAMETERS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eBlonde Naso Tangs need clean, stable marine water conditions. Stability is more important than chasing perfect numbers. Sudden changes in salinity, temperature, pH, or water quality can cause stress, appetite loss, flashing, parasite outbreaks, or long-term decline.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTemperature:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 75-80°F\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003epH Level:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 8.1-8.4\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSalinity:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 1.024-1.026 specific gravity\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAlkalinity:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 8-12 dKH\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAmmonia:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 0 ppm\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eNitrite:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 0 ppm\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eNitrate:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Ideally under 20 ppm\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePhosphate:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Controlled and stable\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eBlonde Naso Tangs are active fish with large appetites, so strong nutrient export is important. Feed heavily enough to maintain body weight while keeping water quality under control. This is the ancient reef bargain: the fish gets nori, the skimmer gets trauma.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eLIGHTING\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eBlonde Naso Tangs do not have special lighting requirements beyond a normal marine or reef aquarium photoperiod. Lighting should support the overall aquarium setup, corals, algae grazing surfaces, and natural behavior.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eLIGHTING RECOMMENDATIONS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eReef Lighting:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Standard reef lighting is suitable in reef aquariums.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFish-Only Lighting:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Moderate fish-only lighting is acceptable in non-reef systems.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eDay\/Night Cycle:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Provide a consistent photoperiod to reduce stress.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eShaded Areas:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Include caves, arches, and overhangs where the tang can retreat at night.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eColor Display:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Strong reef lighting may enhance yellow, blue, orange, and black facial contrast.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThis fish does not need custom lighting drama. Save that financial nonsense for the corals, who are already pretending PAR is a personality trait.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWATER FLOW\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eBlonde Naso Tangs appreciate \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003emoderate to strong water movement\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e and high oxygen levels. Flow should create an active reef environment while still leaving comfortable swimming lanes.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFLOW RECOMMENDATIONS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eIdeal Flow:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Moderate to strong, varied flow.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eOpen Swim Zones:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Keep open areas where the fish can swim without fighting direct current constantly.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSurface Agitation:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Strong surface movement supports oxygen exchange.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAvoid Dead Spots:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Good flow helps reduce detritus buildup around rockwork and feeding areas.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eResting Areas:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Provide lower-flow caves or sheltered zones for nighttime rest.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eLarge Fish Needs:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e A large tang uses more oxygen and produces more waste than smaller community fish.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eBlonde Naso Tangs are strong swimmers, but that does not mean they need to live inside a leaf blower simulator. Flow should support the fish, not turn the aquarium into a hydraulic insult.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eDIET\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eBlonde Naso Tangs are primarily \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eherbivorous grazers\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e, but they also benefit from a varied diet that includes planktonic and meaty foods. Their long-term diet should be built around marine algae and vegetable-based foods.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePRIMARY DIET\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMarine Algae:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Nori sheets, dried seaweed, red algae, green algae, brown algae, and mixed marine algae blends.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePrepared Herbivore Foods:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Spirulina flakes, herbivore pellets, algae-based frozen foods, and high-quality tang formulas.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eGrazing:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Mature live rock and algae film provide natural grazing opportunities.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMeaty Foods:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Mysis shrimp, brine shrimp, krill, chopped shrimp, clam, squid, and other marine-based foods can be offered for variety.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePlanktonic Foods:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Naso tangs may accept smaller suspended foods in the water column.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eVitamins:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Soaking foods in vitamins and fatty acid supplements can help support immune health, especially after shipping or quarantine.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMacroalgae:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Some individuals may eat live macroalgae such as gracilaria or other edible marine algae.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFEEDING FREQUENCY\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFeed \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e2-4 times daily\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e in smaller portions. Provide nori or algae sheets regularly using a clip or grazing station.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eA healthy Blonde Naso Tang should have a full, rounded body profile. A skinny Naso Tang is not “sleek.” It is underfed. The fish is not preparing for a runway show.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCOMPATIBILITY\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eBlonde Naso Tangs are generally peaceful for a large tang, but they still need careful tankmate planning and a properly sized aquarium.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCOMMON TANK MATES\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eGood Options:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Clownfish, wrasses, gobies, blennies, cardinalfish, chromis, anthias, rabbitfish, foxfaces, peaceful angelfish with caution, and many large peaceful to semi-aggressive reef fish.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eOther Tangs:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Use caution. Blonde Naso Tangs may coexist with other tangs in large aquariums, especially if body shapes and feeding territories differ.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eBest Practice With Tangs:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Add tangs carefully using size differences, visual acclimation boxes, rearranged rockwork, or simultaneous introduction when appropriate.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAvoid:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Very aggressive fish that may bully the tang, and very timid fish that may be stressed by its size and movement.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eReef Compatibility:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Generally reef safe when well-fed.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eInvertebrates:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Generally safe with shrimp, snails, crabs, clams, and most reef invertebrates.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTANG AGGRESSION NOTES\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eBlonde Naso Tangs are often less aggressive than many other tang species, but aggression can still happen, especially in undersized aquariums or when housed with similar large grazers.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAggression may include chasing, food guarding, body blocking, tail-slapping, or repeated intimidation. The tail scalpel is real, not decorative. Nature gave this fish a knife and then reef keepers gave it roommates. Brilliant civilization we have here.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eBEHAVIORAL NOTES\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTemperament:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Peaceful to semi-aggressive. Usually calmer than many tangs but still territorial in cramped systems.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eActivity Level:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Very active swimmer. Needs open space and long swim lanes.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eReef Role:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Grazes algae films and accepts prepared herbivore foods.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eColoration:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e May show gray, tan, olive, yellow, black, blue, orange, and white markings depending on age, sex, stress, and lighting.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eStreamer Development:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Mature adults, especially males, may develop tail streamers. Streamer length varies and is not guaranteed.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFacial Markings:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e The bright face and lip coloration are part of the “lipstick” appearance.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFeeding Behavior:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Should eat aggressively once settled. A Naso Tang that refuses food needs close attention.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eStress Sensitivity:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Can be skittish after shipping and may hide or refuse food at first.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eParasite Risk:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Like many tangs, it can be prone to marine ich and other external parasites when stressed.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eQuarantine Recommended:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Strongly recommended before adding to a display aquarium.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSleeping Behavior:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e May sleep near rockwork, caves, or sheltered areas at night.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eScalpel Spine:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Has sharp tail spines used for defense. Use caution when netting or handling.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eGrowth:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Can become very large and should be planned for from the start.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTank Maturity:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Best for established aquariums with stable water quality and natural grazing surfaces.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eNot a Temporary Small Fish:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Juveniles may look manageable, but adults are large, active, and demanding. The “I will upgrade later” plan belongs in the same drawer as expired test kits and other reef-keeping lies.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eHEALTH AND QUARANTINE\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eBlonde Naso Tangs should be quarantined whenever possible before entering the display aquarium. This species can be susceptible to external parasites, shipping stress, appetite problems, and weight loss.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCOMMON HEALTH CONCERNS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMarine Ich:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Tangs are well known for ich susceptibility, especially when stressed.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eVelvet:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e A serious and fast-moving parasite risk in marine fish.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFlukes:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e May cause flashing, heavy breathing, cloudy eyes, frayed fins, or irritation.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eHLLE:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Head and lateral line erosion may be associated with poor nutrition, stress, water quality issues, stray voltage, or long-term husbandry problems.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePoor Appetite:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Can occur after shipping. Offer nori, algae sheets, live rock grazing, spirulina foods, and varied frozen foods.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWeight Loss:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e A thin body profile is a warning sign. Naso tangs should not look pinched behind the head or along the belly.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMouth Damage:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Watch for mouth abrasions from shipping, netting, or poor handling, since feeding response is critical.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eQUARANTINE RECOMMENDATIONS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eQuarantine in a properly sized, cycled hospital system with hiding places, strong aeration, stable salinity, and plenty of food.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFeed algae-based foods early and often during quarantine. Offer nori, spirulina foods, mysis, brine, and other accepted foods to establish a strong feeding response.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eObserve closely for parasites, appetite, breathing rate, flashing, body condition, and fin damage. A Blonde Naso Tang that is not eating is not “settling in.” It is sending a very large, expensive warning.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eACCLIMATION PROCESS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThis acclimation method helps reduce stress by gradually introducing the fish to your aquarium’s temperature and water chemistry.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e1. PREPARE THE AQUARIUM\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMake sure the aquarium is mature, stable, properly sized, and has open swimming space. Have nori or algae-based food ready before introduction.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e2. DIM THE LIGHTS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTurn down aquarium lights before adding the fish. Lower light can help reduce stress during introduction.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e3. FLOAT THE BAG\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFloat the sealed bag in the aquarium for \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e15-20 minutes\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e to equalize temperature.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e4. TRANSFER TO CONTAINER\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eOpen the bag and transfer the fish and shipping water into a clean acclimation container. Avoid rough netting and minimize stress.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e5. DRIP OR SLOW ACCLIMATE\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSlowly add small amounts of tank water over \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e30-45 minutes\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e, especially if salinity differs between the shipping water and aquarium.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e6. DISCARD SHIPPING WATER\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTransfer the fish with a specimen container or soft net. Do not pour shipping water into the aquarium.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e7. INTRODUCE CAREFULLY\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAdd the tang with lights dimmed. If other tangs or aggressive fish are present, use an acclimation box or divider when possible.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e8. OFFER FOOD EARLY\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eOffer nori, algae sheets, spirulina foods, or other herbivore foods soon after introduction once the fish begins exploring.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e9. MONITOR CLOSELY\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWatch for aggression, hiding, rapid breathing, scratching, white spots, torn fins, refusal to eat, pinched body shape, or repeated pacing. Early problems are easier to fix than full display-tank disasters, which humanity continues to discover one expensive fish at a time.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Summit City Coral","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":47036093858075,"sku":"blondenasotang","price":155.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0246\/5100\/5999\/files\/IMG_8694.jpg?v=1779311418"},{"product_id":"powder-blue-tang","title":"Powder Blue Tang","description":"","brand":"Summit City Coral","offers":[{"title":"Wild Small","offer_id":49924827873563,"sku":null,"price":100.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Wild Medium","offer_id":48989808591131,"sku":null,"price":119.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Wild Large","offer_id":49864349679899,"sku":null,"price":150.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"SSC Maldives","offer_id":52400500801819,"sku":null,"price":129.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0246\/5100\/5999\/files\/IMG_8880.jpg?v=1746039964"},{"product_id":"foxface","title":"Magnificent Foxface","description":"\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eQUICK STATS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCare Level:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Easy to Moderate\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFish Type:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Foxface \/ Rabbitfish\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eScientific Name:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSiganus magnificus\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTemperament:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Peaceful to Semi-Aggressive\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eReef Safe:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e With Caution\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eDiet:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Herbivore \/ Omnivore With Heavy Algae Requirement\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAdult Size:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Up to Around 9-10\"\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMinimum Aquarium Size:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 125-130 Gallons Minimum \/ Larger Preferred\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSwimming Level:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Middle to Open Water \/ Rockwork Grazer\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eOrigin:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Indian Ocean Reef Habitats\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMAGNIFICENT FOXFACE\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThe \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMagnificent Foxface\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e, also called the \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMagnificent Rabbitfish\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e, is a striking reef fish known for its bold black, white, yellow, and orange coloration, elongated snout, tall body shape, and dramatic dorsal fin display. It is one of the most visually impressive rabbitfish available in the aquarium hobby, which is useful because “magnificent” is a dangerous name to hand to a fish that still spends most of its day chewing algae like a nervous goat.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThis species is scientifically known as \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSiganus magnificus\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e. It belongs to the rabbitfish family, \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSiganidae\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e, and is closely related to other foxface species. Like other rabbitfish, it has venomous dorsal spines used for defense. These spines are not aggressive weapons, but they can deliver a painful sting if the fish is handled carelessly or cornered.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMagnificent Foxfaces are popular because they are hardy, active, attractive, and useful algae grazers. They may help control nuisance algae, film algae, and some macroalgae growth in reef aquariums, though they should not be treated as a guaranteed algae cure. A foxface is a fish, not a hired landscaping crew with fins.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThis fish is generally \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ereef safe with caution\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e. Most individuals ignore corals when well-fed, but some may nip at soft corals, zoanthids, fleshy LPS, or clam mantles. Risk varies by individual, diet, hunger, and tank conditions. Keeping the fish well-fed with algae-based foods greatly improves reef compatibility.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThe Magnificent Foxface is usually peaceful toward unrelated fish but may show aggression toward other rabbitfish, foxfaces, or similar algae-grazing competitors. It is best kept singly unless the aquarium is very large and the pairing is deliberate.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eNote:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Image is a representation of what to expect. The fish you receive may vary slightly in size, yellow intensity, orange coloration, black-and-white contrast, body shape, fin markings, stress coloration, and overall appearance.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAQUARIUM REQUIREMENTS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAQUARIUM SIZE\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eA minimum aquarium size of \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e125-130 gallons or larger\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e is recommended for a Magnificent Foxface. Larger aquariums are preferred, especially for adult specimens or mixed reef systems with other large fish.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThis fish becomes large, active, and tall-bodied. It needs open swimming space, stable water quality, and room to graze around rockwork. Juveniles may appear manageable in smaller aquariums, but they should be planned for as adult rabbitfish from the start. “It is small right now” remains one of the reef hobby’s most expensive fairy tales.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eA long aquarium with open swimming lanes is better than a cramped tank packed with rock. The fish should be able to cruise, turn comfortably, retreat when startled, and graze without constantly colliding with tankmates.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAQUASCAPE RECOMMENDATIONS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMagnificent Foxfaces do best in aquariums with mature rockwork, open swimming space, and hiding areas.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eOpen Swimming Space:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Leave clear swimming lanes across the tank.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eRockwork:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Provide mature live rock or established reef rock with algae film and grazing surfaces.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eHiding Areas:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Include caves, arches, ledges, and shaded retreat zones.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSecure Rockwork:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Make sure rocks and frags are stable. Large foxfaces can move quickly when startled.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eGrazing Surfaces:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Mature rockwork helps provide natural algae and biofilm grazing.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePeaceful Layout:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Avoid overly cramped aquascapes that force constant fish conflict.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eLid Recommended:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Use a secure lid or mesh top, especially during introduction or if the fish is startled easily.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMagnificent Foxfaces can be shy at first and may wedge into rockwork or change color when stressed. This is normal. The fish is not broken. It is simply processing captivity better than most people process a minor inconvenience.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWATER PARAMETERS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMagnificent Foxfaces need clean, stable marine water conditions. They are hardy once established, but poor water quality, rapid salinity changes, oxygen issues, or unstable parameters can lead to stress, disease, poor appetite, or coral nipping.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTemperature:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 75-80°F\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003epH Level:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 8.1-8.4\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSalinity:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 1.024-1.026 specific gravity\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAlkalinity:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 8-12 dKH\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAmmonia:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 0 ppm\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eNitrite:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 0 ppm\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eNitrate:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Ideally under 20 ppm\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePhosphate:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Controlled and stable\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMagnificent Foxfaces eat often and can produce a fair amount of waste, so strong filtration is recommended. A protein skimmer, good biological filtration, mechanical filtration, regular maintenance, and strong oxygen exchange all help keep the system stable.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFeed the fish properly, but do not let the aquarium become an algae-and-poop democracy. The skimmer already has enough emotional burden.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eLIGHTING\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMagnificent Foxfaces do not have special lighting requirements beyond a normal marine or reef aquarium photoperiod. Lighting should be chosen around the overall aquarium setup, especially corals if present.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eLIGHTING RECOMMENDATIONS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eReef Lighting:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Standard reef lighting is suitable in reef aquariums.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFish-Only Lighting:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Moderate fish-only lighting is acceptable.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eDay\/Night Cycle:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Provide a consistent photoperiod to reduce stress.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eShaded Areas:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Include caves and overhangs where the fish can retreat.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eColor Display:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Reef lighting can enhance yellow, orange, black, white, and gray contrast.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eDim During Introduction:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Lower the lights when first adding the fish to reduce stress.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThis fish does not need special lighting. It already looks expensive. Let the coral be the ones demanding a mortgage worth of photons.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWATER FLOW\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMagnificent Foxfaces appreciate \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003emoderate to strong water movement\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e and good oxygenation. Flow should support an active reef environment while leaving comfortable swimming and resting zones.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFLOW RECOMMENDATIONS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eIdeal Flow:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Moderate to strong, varied reef flow.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eOpen Swim Zones:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Keep areas where the fish can cruise without fighting direct current constantly.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSurface Agitation:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Strong surface movement supports oxygen exchange.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAvoid Dead Spots:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Good flow helps reduce detritus buildup around rockwork and feeding areas.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eResting Areas:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Provide lower-flow caves or sheltered zones for nighttime rest.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eLarge Fish Needs:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e A large rabbitfish uses more oxygen and produces more waste than smaller community fish.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMagnificent Foxfaces are strong swimmers, but they do not need to live inside a pump commercial. Flow should support oxygen and filtration, not make the fish look like it is commuting through a hurricane.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eDIET\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMagnificent Foxfaces are primarily \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eherbivorous grazers\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e, but they also benefit from a varied diet that includes some meaty and planktonic foods. Their long-term diet should be built around marine algae and vegetable-based foods.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePRIMARY DIET\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMarine Algae:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Nori sheets, dried seaweed, red algae, green algae, brown algae, and mixed marine algae blends.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePrepared Herbivore Foods:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Spirulina flakes, herbivore pellets, algae-based frozen foods, and rabbitfish or tang formulas.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMacroalgae:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Some individuals may eat gracilaria, ulva, caulerpa, hair algae, bubble algae, or other macroalgae, though results vary.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMature Rock Grazing:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Established live rock and algae film provide natural grazing opportunities.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMysis Shrimp:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Good occasional meaty food.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eEnriched Brine Shrimp:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Useful variety, especially when enriched.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eChopped Marine Foods:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Finely chopped shrimp, clam, squid, scallop, or mixed marine blends can be offered in moderation.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePellets and Flakes:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e High-quality marine herbivore and omnivore foods are useful staples.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eVitamin Supplements:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Food soaks can support immune health, coloration, and long-term condition.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFEEDING FREQUENCY\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFeed \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e2-3 times daily\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e in small portions. Offer nori or algae sheets regularly using a clip or grazing station.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eA well-fed Magnificent Foxface is less likely to nip corals. A hungry foxface in a reef tank is basically an unpaid algae intern deciding whether your zoas count as salad. Feed the fish like you want your corals to continue existing.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCOMPATIBILITY\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMagnificent Foxfaces are usually peaceful toward most community reef fish, but they can be territorial toward other rabbitfish and similar algae grazers.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCOMMON TANK MATES\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eGood Options:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Clownfish, gobies, blennies, cardinalfish, wrasses, tangs, anthias, dwarf angelfish with caution, peaceful larger fish, and many reef-safe community fish.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eOther Tangs:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Usually compatible in larger aquariums, especially if there is enough swimming space and food.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eOther Rabbitfish:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Use caution. Avoid keeping with other foxfaces or rabbitfish unless the aquarium is very large and the plan is deliberate.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eUse Caution:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Very aggressive fish may bully it, and very timid fish may be intimidated by its size.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAvoid:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Large predators that may harass or attempt to eat it, and fish that may constantly stress it.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eReef Compatibility:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Reef safe with caution. Most individuals are fine when well-fed, but coral nipping is possible.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eInvertebrates:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Generally safe with shrimp, snails, crabs, and most ornamental invertebrates.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCORAL CAUTION\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMagnificent Foxfaces are usually safer with corals than many butterflyfish or large angels, but they are not guaranteed coral-proof.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eUse Caution With:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eZoanthids\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePalythoa\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSoft corals\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFleshy LPS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAcanthophyllia\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTrachyphyllia\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eScolymia\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eOpen brains\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAcans\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eClam mantles\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMacroalgae displays\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMost problems are individual-specific and often tied to underfeeding, boredom, or established grazing habits. In other words, one foxface may be a model citizen while another decides your coral collection is a buffet with decorative lighting. Reefkeeping remains rude like that.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eBEHAVIORAL NOTES\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTemperament:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Peaceful to semi-aggressive. Usually calm toward unrelated fish.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eActivity Level:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Active swimmer and grazer.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eGrazing Behavior:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Spends much of the day picking at rockwork, algae film, and feeding stations.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eStress Coloration:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e May change color, appear blotchy, darken, pale out, or wedge into rockwork when stressed or sleeping.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eVenomous Spines:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Has venomous dorsal, anal, and pelvic spines. Avoid handling and use caution during capture or maintenance.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eDefensive Posture:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e May raise its spines when startled or threatened.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSleeping Behavior:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Often sleeps near rockwork and may show dramatic nighttime color changes.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAlgae Control:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Can be helpful with algae, but results vary by individual and algae type.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eNot a Guaranteed Bubble Algae Cure:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Some may eat bubble algae. Some may not. Fish do not read job descriptions.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSingle Specimen:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Best kept singly in most home aquariums.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eShy at First:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e New arrivals may hide before becoming bolder.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eReef Safe With Caution:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Usually safe, but coral nipping is possible.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eBody Shape:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Tall body and long snout help it graze into rockwork crevices.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eLarge Adult Size:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Needs long-term tank planning.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eHandling Warning:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Do not chase, grab, or pin the fish with bare hands. The venomous spines are real, and pain is generally considered bad for customer satisfaction.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePersonality:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Often curious, active, and visible once settled. It can become a centerpiece fish that earns its keep by grazing algae, looking dramatic, and occasionally reminding everyone that even peaceful animals can come with built-in needles.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eHEALTH AND QUARANTINE\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMagnificent Foxfaces are generally hardy once established, but quarantine is recommended before adding one to a display aquarium.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCOMMON HEALTH CONCERNS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMarine Ich:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Possible with any marine fish, especially after shipping stress.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eVelvet:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Serious and fast-moving parasite risk.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFlukes:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e May cause flashing, heavy breathing, cloudy eyes, fin irritation, or lethargy.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePoor Appetite:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Can occur after shipping. Offer algae sheets, spirulina foods, live rock grazing, and varied frozen foods.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWeight Loss:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Watch for a pinched belly or thin body profile.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eStress Coloration:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Dark blotching or pale coloration can be normal during stress, but persistent stress should be investigated.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFin Damage:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e May occur from aggression, netting, or rough handling.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMouth Damage:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Can interfere with grazing and feeding.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCoral Nipping:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e May increase if the fish is hungry, underfed, or not given enough algae-based foods.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eQUARANTINE RECOMMENDATIONS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eQuarantine in a properly sized, cycled system with hiding places, stable salinity, strong aeration, and a secure lid.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eOffer algae-based foods early and often. Nori, spirulina flakes, herbivore pellets, algae-based frozen foods, and mature rock grazing can help establish feeding. Add mysis or enriched brine for variety once the fish is eating.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eObserve closely for parasites, appetite, breathing rate, flashing, body condition, fin damage, and stress coloration.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eUse caution when moving or netting the fish. Venomous spines can become tangled in nets and can injure both the fish and the handler. Because apparently even catching a peaceful algae eater needed a side quest.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eACCLIMATION PROCESS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThis acclimation method helps reduce stress by gradually introducing the fish to your aquarium’s temperature and water chemistry.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e1. PREPARE THE AQUARIUM\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMake sure the aquarium is mature, stable, properly sized, and has open swimming space, rockwork, hiding areas, and algae-based food ready.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e2. DIM THE LIGHTS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTurn down aquarium lights before adding the fish. Lower light can help reduce stress during introduction.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e3. FLOAT THE BAG\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFloat the sealed bag in the aquarium for \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e15-20 minutes\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e to equalize temperature.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e4. TRANSFER TO CONTAINER\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eOpen the bag and transfer the fish and shipping water into a clean acclimation container. Avoid rough handling and keep hands away from the spines.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e5. DRIP OR SLOW ACCLIMATE\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSlowly add small amounts of tank water over \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e30-45 minutes\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e, especially if salinity differs between the shipping water and aquarium.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e6. DISCARD SHIPPING WATER\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTransfer the fish gently with a specimen container if possible. Avoid chasing or pinning the fish in a net. Do not pour shipping water into the aquarium.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e7. INTRODUCE CAREFULLY\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAdd the foxface with lights dimmed. If aggressive tankmates are present, consider an acclimation box, divider, or temporary rockwork adjustment.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e8. OFFER ALGAE EARLY\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eOffer nori, algae sheets, spirulina foods, or herbivore pellets soon after the fish begins exploring.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e9. MONITOR CLOSELY\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWatch for hiding, rapid breathing, flashing, white spots, refusal to eat, fin damage, coral nipping, bullying, or repeated stress coloration. Early problems are easier to fix than pretending the fish is “just being weird,” which is how reef keepers traditionally delay solving obvious problems.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Summit City Coral","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":49761534181659,"sku":"magnificentfoxface","price":250.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0246\/5100\/5999\/files\/IMG_9125.jpg?v=1777033791"},{"product_id":"clown-tang","title":"Clown Tang","description":"","brand":"Summit City Coral","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48833417609499,"sku":null,"price":95.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0246\/5100\/5999\/files\/IMG_8903.jpg?v=1773425007"},{"product_id":"longnose-butterfly","title":"Yellow Longnose Butterflyfish","description":"","brand":"Summit City Coral","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":47036094251291,"sku":null,"price":80.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}]},{"product_id":"powder-brown-tang","title":"Powder Brown Tang","description":"\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eQUICK STATS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCare Level:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Moderate to Advanced\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eDiet:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Herbivore \/ Omnivore\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTemperament:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Semi-Aggressive\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eReef-Safe:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Yes\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eVenomous\/Toxic:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e No\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eApproximate Purchase Size:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 2-5\"\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eApproximate Max Size:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Around 8-9\"\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eRecommended Tank Size:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 125 Gallons or Larger\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePOWDER BROWN TANG\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThe \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePowder Brown Tang\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e (\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAcanthurus japonicus\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cspan\u003e) is a striking surgeonfish known for its rich brown body, white facial patch, orange to yellow accents, and blue edging along the fins. It has a clean, high-contrast look that stands out beautifully in reef aquariums without being as blindingly dramatic as some of its tang cousins. Restraint, apparently, made it into the ocean after all.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePowder Brown Tangs are active grazers that spend much of the day swimming through the aquarium and picking at algae on rockwork. They need open swimming space, stable water quality, and a mature aquarium with plenty of grazing opportunities. This is not a “small cute tang for now” fish. That phrase has caused enough livestock planning disasters already.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThis species is considered \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ereef-safe\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e and should not bother corals or most invertebrates when well-fed. Like many \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAcanthurus\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cspan\u003e tangs, it can become territorial, especially toward other tangs, surgeonfish, or similarly shaped algae grazers. It is beautiful, useful, and armed with a tail scalpel, because apparently fish needed both elegance and cutlery.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eNote:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Image is a representation of what to expect. The fish you receive may vary slightly in size, color, markings, maturity, and overall appearance.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAQUARIUM REQUIREMENTS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAQUARIUM SIZE\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eA minimum tank size of \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e125 gallons or larger\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e is recommended for a Powder Brown Tang. This species can reach around \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e8-9 inches\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e and needs substantial open swimming room to stay healthy long term.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTank length matters. A longer aquarium with open swimming lanes is much better than a tall narrow aquarium pretending to be useful. Powder Brown Tangs are active fish and should not be cramped into undersized systems just because they looked manageable at purchase size. Juvenile tangs are basically future tank upgrades wearing fins.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eHABITAT RECOMMENDATIONS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePowder Brown Tangs do best in large, mature aquariums with open swimming space, stable rockwork, strong filtration, and plenty of grazing opportunities.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAquascaping:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Provide open swimming room along with stable rock structures for grazing, shelter, and territory. Avoid overly dense aquascapes that block long swimming paths.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSubstrate:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Sand, fine aragonite, crushed coral, or bare-bottom systems can all work. This species does not depend heavily on the substrate.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eRockwork:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Live rock is strongly recommended. It provides grazing surfaces, shelter, territory, and biological filtration.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTank Maturity:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e A mature aquarium is preferred, especially one with natural algae and biofilm growth. Powder Brown Tangs benefit from regular grazing opportunities throughout the day.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTank Cover:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e A tight-fitting lid is recommended. Tangs are not the worst jumpers, but large startled fish can still make athletic mistakes with expensive consequences.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWATER PARAMETERS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePowder Brown Tangs are sensitive to poor water quality and stress, so stable marine conditions are especially important. “Moderate to advanced” is aquarium-speak for “do not freestyle this one unless you enjoy problems with fins.”\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTemperature:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 74-80°F\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003epH Level:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 8.1-8.4\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSalinity:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 1.020-1.026 specific gravity\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAmmonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Ammonia and nitrite should remain undetectable. Nitrate should be kept as low as reasonably possible, ideally below 20 ppm.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWater Flow:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Moderate to strong water movement is ideal. Provide strong oxygenation, efficient filtration, and enough flow to move waste toward filtration while still allowing comfortable swimming space.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eDIET\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePowder Brown Tangs are primarily \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eherbivorous grazers\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e, though they will accept a variety of omnivore foods in the aquarium. A diet rich in marine algae is important for maintaining body weight, color, digestion, and immune health.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePRIMARY DIET\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFrozen Food:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Offer algae-rich frozen foods, mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, marine blends, and other high-quality frozen foods. We at Summit City Coral prefer frozen foods such as \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eLRS Herbivore Frenzy\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e and \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePE Mysis\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePrepared Herbivore Foods:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e High-quality herbivore pellets, marine algae pellets, spirulina flakes, and omnivore blends can help provide balanced nutrition.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAlgae-Based Foods:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Nori, seaweed sheets, spirulina, algae wafers, herbivore blends, and marine algae foods should be offered regularly. Clip seaweed sheets to the glass or rockwork so the tang can graze naturally.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eNatural Grazing:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Established live rock with film algae and biofilm can help support natural feeding behavior. This should be viewed as supplemental, not the entire feeding plan. A tang is not a free algae-control employee with a tiny knife taped to its tail.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFEEDING FREQUENCY\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFeed small amounts \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e1-2 times per day\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e, with algae-based foods offered frequently. Tangs do best when they can graze throughout the day, so regular access to seaweed or algae-based foods is strongly recommended.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCOMPATIBILITY\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePowder Brown Tangs are semi-aggressive and can work well in large reef aquariums with appropriate tank mates. They may become territorial toward other tangs, especially other \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAcanthurus\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e species or similarly shaped algae grazers.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCOMMON TANK MATES\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFish:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Clownfish, cardinalfish, wrasses, gobies, blennies, rabbitfish, foxfaces, dwarf angelfish, larger peaceful fish, and other community reef fish.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAvoid:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Other tangs or surgeonfish in smaller aquariums unless the tank is large enough and introductions are carefully managed. Avoid overly aggressive fish that may constantly harass the tang, as well as very timid fish that may be outcompeted.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eOther Tangs:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Use caution when mixing with other tangs. Add tangs carefully, provide plenty of space, and avoid combining too many similarly shaped or closely related species in undersized systems.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eInvertebrates:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Usually safe with cleaner shrimp, hermit crabs, snails, urchins, and common cleanup crew animals.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCoral:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Powder Brown Tangs are considered \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ereef-safe\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e and should not bother soft corals, LPS, SPS, zoanthids, mushrooms, clams, or anemones. Like many herbivores, underfed individuals may become more likely to investigate surfaces they should leave alone, because hunger remains a terrible advisor.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eBEHAVIORAL NOTES\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTemperament:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Semi-aggressive. Usually manageable in properly sized aquariums, but may become territorial once established.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAlgae Grazing:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Strong grazer for film algae and softer algae growth. Still requires regular feeding and should not be used as the entire algae-control plan.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eReef Compatibility:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Excellent for reef tanks when properly fed. They generally ignore corals and most invertebrates.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSwimming Style:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Active swimmer that needs long open swimming paths and should not be cramped into undersized aquariums.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTang Scalpel:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Like other surgeonfish, Powder Brown Tangs have a sharp scalpel-like spine near the tail used for defense. Use caution when catching, transferring, or working around the fish. It is not venomous, just equipped with a tiny biological box cutter, because fish apparently needed tools.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eStress Sensitivity:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Powder Brown Tangs can be more sensitive to stress, shipping, bullying, and unstable water conditions than some hardier tangs. A calm introduction and stable aquarium are important.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eDisease Susceptibility:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Like many tangs, Powder Brown Tangs can be prone to external parasites when stressed. Quarantine, observation, strong nutrition, and stable water quality are strongly recommended.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTerritoriality:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e May show aggression toward other tangs or similarly shaped fish, especially after becoming established.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eColoration:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Typically has a brown body, white facial patch, yellow to orange fin accents, and blue edging. Color intensity may vary depending on stress, diet, maturity, and lighting.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSimilar Species Note:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Powder Brown Tangs may be confused with Whitecheek Tangs or other similar \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAcanthurus\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cspan\u003e species. Always compare facial markings and supplier identification when accuracy matters.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTank Size Reality:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e This is an active tang that should be planned around adult size and swimming behavior, not purchase size. Buying a juvenile and pretending it will stay small is not husbandry. It is denial with a drip acclimation bucket.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eJumping:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e A tight-fitting lid is recommended. Large fish can still make sudden, athletic mistakes.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eACCLIMATION PROCESS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThis acclimation method helps reduce stress by gradually introducing the fish to your aquarium’s temperature and water chemistry.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e1. TURN OFF THE LIGHTS \u0026amp; ATO\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTurn off aquarium lights to reduce stress. If you have an Auto Top Off system, switch it off before starting acclimation.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e2. FLOAT THE BAG\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFloat the sealed bag in the aquarium for \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e15-20 minutes\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e to allow the temperature in the bag to equalize with the tank.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e3. OPEN BAG, ADD FISH TO CONTAINER\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCarefully open the bag and transfer the fish and shipping water into a clean bucket or container.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e4. ACCLIMATE USING TANK WATER\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAdd \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e1\/4 cup of tank water\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e to the container every \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e5 minutes for 40 minutes\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e5. TRANSFER FISH TO AQUARIUM\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eOnce acclimation is complete, gently transfer the fish into the aquarium using a net or specimen container. Use caution near the tail spine when handling tangs. Discard the shipping water. Do not pour shipping water into your aquarium.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e6. REFILL THE AQUARIUM WITH SALTWATER\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eYou may need to replace the saltwater removed during acclimation with fresh mixed saltwater.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Summit City Coral","offers":[{"title":"Small","offer_id":48633017303323,"sku":null,"price":60.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Medium","offer_id":48633017336091,"sku":null,"price":85.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"Large","offer_id":48633017368859,"sku":null,"price":150.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0246\/5100\/5999\/files\/C8E8F427-B243-4C44-811D-10860BD3A8EF.png?v=1780958614"},{"product_id":"naso-tang","title":"Naso Tang","description":"\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eQUICK STATS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCare Level:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Moderate\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFish Type:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Tang \/ Surgeonfish \/ Unicornfish Relative\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eScientific Name:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan\u003eNaso lituratus\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTemperament:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Peaceful to Semi-Aggressive\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eReef Safe:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Yes\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eDiet:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Herbivore \/ Omnivore With Heavy Algae Requirement\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAdult Size:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Up to Around 16-20\"\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMinimum Aquarium Size:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 180 Gallons Minimum \/ 200+ Gallons Strongly Preferred\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSwimming Level:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Middle to Open Water \/ Rockwork Grazer\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eOrigin:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Indo-Pacific Reef Slopes, Lagoons, and Outer Reef Habitats\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eNASO TANG\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThe \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eNaso Tang\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e, also called the \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eLipstick Tang\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e or \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eOrange Spine Unicornfish\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e, is a large, active surgeonfish known for its smooth gray-to-tan body, orange lips, dark facial markings, yellow accents, and bright orange tail spines. Mature males may also develop long tail streamers, giving the fish an elegant, cruising appearance that makes it look far more polite than its tank-size requirements.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThis species is scientifically known as \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eNaso lituratus\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e. It is closely related to the Blonde Naso Tang, \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eNaso elegans\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e, but the standard Naso Tang is generally associated with more gray, tan, black, orange, and yellow contrast rather than the brighter yellow dorsal coloration of the Blonde form. In plain English, this is the classic lipstick Naso, not the blonde deluxe trim package.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThe Naso Tang is best suited for large, established aquariums with strong filtration, open swimming space, mature rockwork, and frequent feeding. It is a powerful open-water swimmer that spends much of its day cruising and grazing. This is not a fish for cramped tanks, short aquariums, or “it is small right now” logic, which remains one of the reef hobby’s most reliable little disasters.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThis fish is generally considered \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ereef safe\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e and is usually peaceful toward corals and invertebrates. It may graze on algae films and macroalgae, but it should not be expected to live on random tank algae alone. A proper diet with frequent algae-based feeding is essential.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThe Naso Tang is often calmer than many more aggressive tangs, but it can still show territorial behavior toward other tangs, especially similar large grazers or other Naso species. It may coexist with other tangs in very large aquariums when introduced carefully, but it should not be treated like a harmless background fish. It is still a surgeonfish with scalpels and opinions.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eNote:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Image is a representation of what to expect. The fish you receive may vary slightly in size, body tone, facial markings, orange lip intensity, tail spine coloration, streamer development, fin markings, and overall appearance.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAQUARIUM REQUIREMENTS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAQUARIUM SIZE\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eA minimum aquarium size of \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e180 gallons or larger\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e is recommended for a Naso Tang, with \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e200 gallons or larger\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e strongly preferred for long-term adult care. Larger aquariums with long horizontal swimming space are ideal.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThis fish can grow large and needs room to cruise. A juvenile may be sold small, but that does not make it a small-tank fish. Tiny Naso Tangs become giant Naso Tangs, a biological development that continues to shock people who own measuring tapes but apparently not patience.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTank length matters as much as gallon count. A tall aquarium with limited horizontal space may technically hold water, but it does not provide the kind of swimming room this fish needs. Long tanks with open swim lanes are far better than short deep boxes pretending to be spacious.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAQUASCAPE RECOMMENDATIONS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eNaso Tangs need open swimming lanes, stable rockwork, and grazing surfaces.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eOpen Swimming Space:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Leave long open areas for cruising. Do not pack the aquarium wall-to-wall with rock.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eRockwork:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Provide mature live rock or established reef rock with algae film and grazing surfaces.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eHiding Areas:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Include caves, ledges, arches, and sleeping spaces so the fish can retreat when stressed.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSecure Rockwork:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Make sure rock structures are stable. Large tangs can move quickly and may bump loose rock or unsecured frags.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eHigh Oxygen:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Use strong surface agitation, efficient filtration, and good water movement.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eStrong Filtration:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e This fish eats often and produces waste. The filtration system needs to keep up.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMature System:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Best kept in an established aquarium with stable parameters and consistent feeding.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThe Naso Tang is a large open-water cruiser, not a decorative oval for a cramped rock pile. Give it room to swim or pick a smaller fish. Astonishing advice, apparently.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWATER PARAMETERS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eNaso Tangs need clean, stable marine water conditions. Stability is more important than chasing perfect numbers. Sudden changes in salinity, temperature, pH, or water quality can cause stress, appetite loss, flashing, parasite outbreaks, or long-term decline.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTemperature:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 75-80°F\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003epH Level:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 8.1-8.4\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSalinity:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 1.024-1.026 specific gravity\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAlkalinity:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 8-12 dKH\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAmmonia:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 0 ppm\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eNitrite:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 0 ppm\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eNitrate:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Ideally under 20 ppm\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePhosphate:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Controlled and stable\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eNaso Tangs are active fish with large appetites, so strong nutrient export is important. Feed heavily enough to maintain body weight while keeping water quality under control. This is the ancient reef bargain: the tang gets nori, the skimmer develops character.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eLIGHTING\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eNaso Tangs do not have special lighting requirements beyond a normal marine or reef aquarium photoperiod. Lighting should support the overall aquarium setup, corals, algae grazing surfaces, and natural behavior.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eLIGHTING RECOMMENDATIONS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eReef Lighting:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Standard reef lighting is suitable in reef aquariums.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFish-Only Lighting:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Moderate fish-only lighting is acceptable in non-reef systems.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eDay\/Night Cycle:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Provide a consistent photoperiod to reduce stress.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eShaded Areas:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Include caves, arches, and overhangs where the tang can retreat at night.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eColor Display:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Strong reef lighting may enhance gray, black, orange, yellow, and white facial and tail contrast.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThis fish does not need custom lighting drama. Save that financial nonsense for the corals, who are already pretending PAR is a personality trait.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWATER FLOW\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eNaso Tangs appreciate \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003emoderate to strong water movement\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e and high oxygen levels. Flow should create an active reef environment while still leaving comfortable swimming lanes.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFLOW RECOMMENDATIONS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eIdeal Flow:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Moderate to strong, varied flow.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eOpen Swim Zones:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Keep open areas where the fish can swim without fighting direct current constantly.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSurface Agitation:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Strong surface movement supports oxygen exchange.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAvoid Dead Spots:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Good flow helps reduce detritus buildup around rockwork and feeding areas.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eResting Areas:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Provide lower-flow caves or sheltered zones for nighttime rest.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eLarge Fish Needs:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e A large tang uses more oxygen and produces more waste than smaller community fish.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eNaso Tangs are strong swimmers, but that does not mean they need to live inside a leaf blower simulator. Flow should support the fish, not turn the aquarium into a hydraulic insult.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eDIET\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eNaso Tangs are primarily \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eherbivorous grazers\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e, but they also benefit from a varied diet that includes planktonic and meaty foods. Their long-term diet should be built around marine algae and vegetable-based foods.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePRIMARY DIET\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMarine Algae:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Nori sheets, dried seaweed, red algae, green algae, brown algae, and mixed marine algae blends.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePrepared Herbivore Foods:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Spirulina flakes, herbivore pellets, algae-based frozen foods, and high-quality tang formulas.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eGrazing:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Mature live rock and algae film provide natural grazing opportunities.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMeaty Foods:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, krill, chopped shrimp, clam, squid, and other marine-based foods can be offered for variety.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePlanktonic Foods:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Naso tangs may accept smaller suspended foods in the water column.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eVitamins:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Soaking foods in vitamins and fatty acid supplements can help support immune health, especially after shipping or quarantine.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMacroalgae:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Some individuals may eat live macroalgae such as gracilaria or other edible marine algae.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFEEDING FREQUENCY\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFeed \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e2-4 times daily\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e in smaller portions. Provide nori or algae sheets regularly using a clip or grazing station.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eA healthy Naso Tang should have a full, rounded body profile. A skinny Naso Tang is not “sleek.” It is underfed. The fish is not preparing for a runway show, despite having the lips for it.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCOMPATIBILITY\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eNaso Tangs are generally peaceful for a large tang, but they still need careful tankmate planning and a properly sized aquarium.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCOMMON TANK MATES\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eGood Options:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Clownfish, wrasses, gobies, blennies, cardinalfish, chromis, anthias, rabbitfish, foxfaces, peaceful angelfish with caution, and many large peaceful to semi-aggressive reef fish.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eOther Tangs:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Use caution. Naso Tangs may coexist with other tangs in large aquariums, especially if body shapes and feeding territories differ.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eBest Practice With Tangs:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Add tangs carefully using size differences, visual acclimation boxes, rearranged rockwork, or simultaneous introduction when appropriate.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAvoid:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Very aggressive fish that may bully the tang, and very timid fish that may be stressed by its size and movement.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eReef Compatibility:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Generally reef safe when well-fed.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eInvertebrates:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Generally safe with shrimp, snails, crabs, clams, and most reef invertebrates.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTANG AGGRESSION NOTES\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eNaso Tangs are often less aggressive than many \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAcanthurus\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e or \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eZebrasoma\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e tangs, but aggression can still happen, especially in undersized aquariums or when housed with similar large grazers.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAggression may include chasing, food guarding, body blocking, tail-slapping, or repeated intimidation. The tail spines are real, not decorative. Nature gave this fish scalpels and reef keepers gave it roommates. Bold choices all around.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eBEHAVIORAL NOTES\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTemperament:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Peaceful to semi-aggressive. Usually calmer than many tangs but still territorial in cramped systems.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eActivity Level:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Very active swimmer. Needs open space and long swim lanes.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eReef Role:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Grazes algae films and accepts prepared herbivore foods.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eColoration:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e May show gray, tan, black, yellow, orange, white, blue, and olive tones depending on age, sex, stress, and lighting.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eLip Coloration:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e The orange or yellow-orange lips are part of the classic “lipstick” appearance.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTail Spines:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Bright orange tail spines are one of the signature features of this species.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eStreamer Development:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Mature adults, especially males, may develop tail streamers. Streamer length varies and is not guaranteed.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFeeding Behavior:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Should eat aggressively once settled. A Naso Tang that refuses food needs close attention.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eStress Sensitivity:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Can be skittish after shipping and may hide or refuse food at first.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eParasite Risk:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Like many tangs, it can be prone to marine ich and other external parasites when stressed.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eQuarantine Recommended:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Strongly recommended before adding to a display aquarium.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSleeping Behavior:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e May sleep near rockwork, caves, or sheltered areas at night.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eScalpel Spine:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Has sharp tail spines used for defense. Use caution when netting or handling.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eGrowth:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Can become very large and should be planned for from the start.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTank Maturity:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Best for established aquariums with stable water quality and natural grazing surfaces.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eNot a Temporary Small Fish:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Juveniles may look manageable, but adults are large, active, and demanding. The “I will upgrade later” plan belongs in the same drawer as expired test kits and other reef-keeping lies.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eHEALTH AND QUARANTINE\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eNaso Tangs should be quarantined whenever possible before entering the display aquarium. This species can be susceptible to external parasites, shipping stress, appetite problems, and weight loss.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCOMMON HEALTH CONCERNS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMarine Ich:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Tangs are well known for ich susceptibility, especially when stressed.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eVelvet:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e A serious and fast-moving parasite risk in marine fish.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFlukes:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e May cause flashing, heavy breathing, cloudy eyes, frayed fins, or irritation.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eHLLE:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Head and lateral line erosion may be associated with poor nutrition, stress, water quality issues, stray voltage, or long-term husbandry problems.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePoor Appetite:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Can occur after shipping. Offer nori, algae sheets, live rock grazing, spirulina foods, and varied frozen foods.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWeight Loss:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e A thin body profile is a warning sign. Naso tangs should not look pinched behind the head or along the belly.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMouth Damage:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Watch for mouth abrasions from shipping, netting, or poor handling, since feeding response is critical.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eQUARANTINE RECOMMENDATIONS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eQuarantine in a properly sized, cycled hospital system with hiding places, strong aeration, stable salinity, and plenty of food.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFeed algae-based foods early and often during quarantine. Offer nori, spirulina foods, mysis, brine, and other accepted foods to establish a strong feeding response.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eObserve closely for parasites, appetite, breathing rate, flashing, body condition, and fin damage. A Naso Tang that is not eating is not “settling in.” It is sending a very large, expensive warning.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eACCLIMATION PROCESS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThis acclimation method helps reduce stress by gradually introducing the fish to your aquarium’s temperature and water chemistry.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e1. PREPARE THE AQUARIUM\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMake sure the aquarium is mature, stable, properly sized, and has open swimming space. Have nori or algae-based food ready before introduction.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e2. DIM THE LIGHTS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTurn down aquarium lights before adding the fish. Lower light can help reduce stress during introduction.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e3. FLOAT THE BAG\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFloat the sealed bag in the aquarium for \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e15-20 minutes\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e to equalize temperature.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e4. TRANSFER TO CONTAINER\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eOpen the bag and transfer the fish and shipping water into a clean acclimation container. Avoid rough netting and minimize stress.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e5. DRIP OR SLOW ACCLIMATE\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSlowly add small amounts of tank water over \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e30-45 minutes\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e, especially if salinity differs between the shipping water and aquarium.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e6. DISCARD SHIPPING WATER\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTransfer the fish with a specimen container or soft net. Do not pour shipping water into the aquarium.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e7. INTRODUCE CAREFULLY\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAdd the tang with lights dimmed. If other tangs or aggressive fish are present, use an acclimation box or divider when possible.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e8. OFFER FOOD EARLY\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eOffer nori, algae sheets, spirulina foods, or other herbivore foods soon after introduction once the fish begins exploring.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e9. MONITOR CLOSELY\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWatch for aggression, hiding, rapid breathing, scratching, white spots, torn fins, refusal to eat, pinched body shape, or repeated pacing. Early problems are easier to fix than full display-tank disasters, which humanity continues to discover one expensive fish at a time.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Summit City Coral","offers":[{"title":"Small","offer_id":48632990269723,"sku":"nasotangs","price":70.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Medium","offer_id":48632990302491,"sku":"nasotangm","price":129.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Large","offer_id":51149020791067,"sku":"nasotangl","price":150.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"XL","offer_id":52400485564699,"sku":"nasotangxl","price":355.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0246\/5100\/5999\/files\/IMG_0581.jpg?v=1778184718"},{"product_id":"coral-beauty","title":"Coral Beauty Angelfish","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"quick_stat_entry\"\u003e\n\u003ch2 data-end=\"278\" data-start=\"264\" data-section-id=\"vovuw1\"\u003eQUICK STATS\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-end=\"561\" data-start=\"280\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-end=\"295\" data-start=\"280\"\u003eCare Level:\u003c\/strong\u003e Moderate\u003cbr data-end=\"307\" data-start=\"304\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-end=\"316\" data-start=\"307\"\u003eDiet:\u003c\/strong\u003e Omnivore\u003cbr data-end=\"328\" data-start=\"325\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-end=\"344\" data-start=\"328\"\u003eTemperament:\u003c\/strong\u003e Semi-Aggressive\u003cbr data-end=\"363\" data-start=\"360\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-end=\"377\" data-start=\"363\"\u003eReef-Safe:\u003c\/strong\u003e With Caution\u003cbr data-end=\"393\" data-start=\"390\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-end=\"406\" data-start=\"393\"\u003eVenomous:\u003c\/strong\u003e No\u003cbr data-end=\"412\" data-start=\"409\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-end=\"423\" data-start=\"412\"\u003eSource:\u003c\/strong\u003e See Options\u003cbr data-end=\"438\" data-start=\"435\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-end=\"468\" data-start=\"438\"\u003eApproximate Purchase Size:\u003c\/strong\u003e 1.5-3\"\u003cbr data-end=\"478\" data-start=\"475\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-end=\"503\" data-start=\"478\"\u003eApproximate Max Size:\u003c\/strong\u003e 4\"\u003cbr data-end=\"509\" data-start=\"506\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-end=\"535\" data-start=\"509\"\u003eRecommended Tank Size:\u003c\/strong\u003e 55-70 Gallons or Larger\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr data-end=\"566\" data-start=\"563\"\u003e\n\u003ch2 data-end=\"593\" data-start=\"568\" data-section-id=\"16z6fzx\"\u003eCORAL BEAUTY ANGELFISH\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-end=\"927\" data-start=\"595\"\u003eThe \u003cstrong data-end=\"625\" data-start=\"599\"\u003eCoral Beauty Angelfish\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem data-end=\"649\" data-start=\"627\"\u003eCentropyge bispinosa\u003c\/em\u003e) is one of the most popular dwarf angelfish in the saltwater aquarium hobby, known for its bold mix of deep purple, blue, orange, and red coloration. Its compact size, active swimming behavior, and striking appearance make it a standout choice for established marine aquariums.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-end=\"1549\" data-start=\"929\"\u003eCoral Beauty Angelfish are generally hardy once acclimated and do best in mature aquariums with plenty of live rock. They spend much of their day weaving through the rockwork, grazing on algae, biofilm, and small food particles. While they can be kept in reef aquariums, they are considered \u003cstrong data-end=\"1246\" data-start=\"1220\"\u003ereef-safe with caution\u003c\/strong\u003e because some individuals may nip at soft corals, LPS, SPS polyps, zoanthids, clam mantles, or other sessile invertebrates. Proper feeding and plenty of grazing space may help reduce this behavior, because apparently even fish behave better when their needs are met. Tragic that this remains surprising.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-end=\"1798\" data-start=\"1551\"\u003eThis species can be territorial, especially toward other dwarf angelfish or similarly shaped fish. A well-structured aquarium with hiding places, open swimming space, and established rockwork will help reduce stress and encourage natural behavior.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-end=\"1933\" data-start=\"1800\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-end=\"1809\" data-start=\"1800\"\u003eNote:\u003c\/strong\u003e Image is a representation of what to expect. The fish you receive may vary slightly in size, color, and overall appearance.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr data-end=\"1938\" data-start=\"1935\"\u003e\n\u003ch1 data-end=\"1963\" data-start=\"1940\" data-section-id=\"82rpn1\"\u003eAQUARIUM REQUIREMENTS\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003ch2 data-end=\"1981\" data-start=\"1965\" data-section-id=\"16vtdl3\"\u003eAQUARIUM SIZE\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-end=\"2298\" data-start=\"1983\"\u003eA minimum tank size of \u003cstrong data-end=\"2033\" data-start=\"2006\"\u003e55-70 gallons or larger\u003c\/strong\u003e is recommended for a Coral Beauty Angelfish. Although they stay relatively small, they are active swimmers and benefit from plenty of rockwork for grazing and shelter. Larger aquariums also help reduce territorial behavior and provide more stable water conditions.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2 data-end=\"2326\" data-start=\"2300\" data-section-id=\"1xl8pto\"\u003eHABITAT RECOMMENDATIONS\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-end=\"2429\" data-start=\"2328\"\u003eCoral Beauty Angelfish thrive in established aquariums with mature live rock and plenty of structure.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-end=\"2583\" data-start=\"2431\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-end=\"2447\" data-start=\"2431\"\u003eAquascaping:\u003c\/strong\u003e Provide caves, overhangs, and crevices throughout the aquascape. This gives the fish space to hide, graze, and establish its territory.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-end=\"2694\" data-start=\"2585\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-end=\"2599\" data-start=\"2585\"\u003eSubstrate:\u003c\/strong\u003e Sand or fine aragonite substrate works well and helps create a natural reef-style environment.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-end=\"2870\" data-start=\"2696\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-end=\"2716\" data-start=\"2696\"\u003eMature Rockwork:\u003c\/strong\u003e Established live rock is highly recommended, as Coral Beauty Angelfish naturally graze on algae, sponge, biofilm, and small organisms throughout the day.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr data-end=\"2875\" data-start=\"2872\"\u003e\n\u003ch1 data-end=\"2895\" data-start=\"2877\" data-section-id=\"1obglah\"\u003eWATER PARAMETERS\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp data-end=\"3060\" data-start=\"2897\"\u003eStable water quality is important for long-term health. Coral Beauty Angelfish are considered hardy, but they still do best in clean, consistent marine conditions.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-end=\"3459\" data-start=\"3062\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-end=\"3078\" data-start=\"3062\"\u003eTemperature:\u003c\/strong\u003e 72-78°F\u003cbr data-end=\"3089\" data-start=\"3086\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-end=\"3102\" data-start=\"3089\"\u003epH Level:\u003c\/strong\u003e 8.1-8.4\u003cbr data-end=\"3113\" data-start=\"3110\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-end=\"3126\" data-start=\"3113\"\u003eSalinity:\u003c\/strong\u003e 1.020-1.026 specific gravity\u003cbr data-end=\"3158\" data-start=\"3155\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-end=\"3192\" data-start=\"3158\"\u003eAmmonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate:\u003c\/strong\u003e Ammonia and nitrite should remain undetectable. Nitrate should be kept as low as reasonably possible, ideally below 20 ppm.\u003cbr data-end=\"3319\" data-start=\"3316\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-end=\"3334\" data-start=\"3319\"\u003eWater Flow:\u003c\/strong\u003e Moderate water movement is ideal. Good flow helps maintain oxygen levels and moves uneaten food and waste toward filtration.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr data-end=\"3464\" data-start=\"3461\"\u003e\n\u003ch1 data-end=\"3472\" data-start=\"3466\" data-section-id=\"1htcpsq\"\u003eDIET\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp data-end=\"3845\" data-start=\"3474\"\u003eCoral Beauty Angelfish are \u003cstrong data-end=\"3514\" data-start=\"3501\"\u003eomnivores\u003c\/strong\u003e, meaning they require a varied diet of both plant-based and meaty foods. In the wild, they graze on algae, small invertebrates, detritus, and other natural foods found along reef structures. In aquariums, variety is key to maintaining strong coloration, healthy weight, and long-term success. \u003cspan data-state=\"closed\" class=\"\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2 data-end=\"3862\" data-start=\"3847\" data-section-id=\"j8hkph\"\u003ePRIMARY DIET\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-end=\"4005\" data-start=\"3864\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-end=\"3880\" data-start=\"3864\"\u003eFrozen Food:\u003c\/strong\u003e Offer mysis shrimp, brine shrimp, spirulina-enriched frozen foods, angelfish blends, and other marine-specific frozen foods. We at Summit City Coral prefer frozen foods such as LRS Herbivore Frenzy and PE Mysis.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-end=\"4182\" data-start=\"4007\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-end=\"4036\" data-start=\"4007\"\u003ePrepared Angelfish Foods:\u003c\/strong\u003e High-quality angelfish preparations are a strong option because many contain sponge, algae, and marine-based ingredients suited for dwarf angels.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-end=\"4307\" data-start=\"4184\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-end=\"4206\" data-start=\"4184\"\u003eAlgae-Based Foods:\u003c\/strong\u003e Spirulina, marine algae, seaweed sheets, and herbivore blends help support natural grazing behavior. We often use LRS seaweed sheets a couple times a week to mix up feedings.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-end=\"4475\" data-start=\"4309\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-end=\"4335\" data-start=\"4309\"\u003ePellet and Flake Food:\u003c\/strong\u003e High-quality marine pellets or flakes can be offered once the fish is eating well. Feed carefully to avoid overfeeding and nutrient spikes. Our favorite brand for pellets is the New Life Spectrum Probiotix. \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2 data-end=\"4497\" data-start=\"4477\" data-section-id=\"jowmzn\"\u003eFEEDING FREQUENCY\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-end=\"4706\" data-start=\"4499\"\u003eFeed small amounts \u003cstrong data-end=\"4539\" data-start=\"4518\"\u003e1-2 times per day\u003c\/strong\u003e, with a varied rotation of meaty and algae-based foods. In active reef systems with mature rockwork, Coral Beauty Angelfish may also graze naturally between feedings.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr data-end=\"4711\" data-start=\"4708\"\u003e\n\u003ch1 data-end=\"4728\" data-start=\"4713\" data-section-id=\"1gpoq14\"\u003eCOMPATIBILITY\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp data-end=\"4959\" data-start=\"4730\"\u003eCoral Beauty Angelfish can be kept with a variety of saltwater fish, but they may become territorial once established. They are usually best kept with semi-bold community fish and should be monitored around other dwarf angelfish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2 data-end=\"4981\" data-start=\"4961\" data-section-id=\"tzqlcm\"\u003eCOMMON TANK MATES\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-end=\"5114\" data-start=\"4983\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-end=\"4992\" data-start=\"4983\"\u003eFish:\u003c\/strong\u003e Clownfish, wrasses, gobies, blennies, cardinalfish, tangs, damsels in larger systems, and other semi-bold community fish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-end=\"5286\" data-start=\"5116\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-end=\"5134\" data-start=\"5116\"\u003eInvertebrates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Use caution. They usually ignore many mobile invertebrates such as snails, hermit crabs, cleaner shrimp, and urchins, but individual behavior can vary.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-end=\"5635\" data-start=\"5288\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-end=\"5298\" data-start=\"5288\"\u003eCoral:\u003c\/strong\u003e Coral Beauty Angelfish are \u003cstrong data-end=\"5352\" data-start=\"5326\"\u003ereef-safe with caution\u003c\/strong\u003e. Some individuals do well in reef tanks, while others may nip at soft corals, LPS, SPS polyps, zoanthids, or clam mantles. Multiple sources describe Coral Beauties as popular reef candidates, but not completely risk-free around coral and clams. \u003cspan data-state=\"closed\" class=\"\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr data-end=\"5640\" data-start=\"5637\"\u003e\n\u003ch1 data-end=\"5660\" data-start=\"5642\" data-section-id=\"1tuscsk\"\u003eBEHAVIORAL NOTES\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp data-end=\"5811\" data-start=\"5662\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-end=\"5681\" data-start=\"5662\"\u003eTerritoriality:\u003c\/strong\u003e Coral Beauty Angelfish may become territorial once established, especially toward other dwarf angelfish or similarly shaped fish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-end=\"6008\" data-start=\"5813\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-end=\"5836\" data-start=\"5813\"\u003eReef Compatibility:\u003c\/strong\u003e Best considered reef-safe with caution. Some individuals behave well in reef aquariums, while others develop an inconvenient interest in expensive coral polyps. Naturally.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-end=\"6168\" data-start=\"6010\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-end=\"6030\" data-start=\"6010\"\u003eHiding Behavior:\u003c\/strong\u003e This fish appreciates caves, overhangs, and mature rockwork. New arrivals may hide at first but usually become more visible once settled.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-end=\"6304\" data-start=\"6170\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-end=\"6182\" data-start=\"6170\"\u003eJumping:\u003c\/strong\u003e While not considered one of the most notorious jumpers, a tight-fitting lid is still recommended for most saltwater fish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr data-end=\"6309\" data-start=\"6306\"\u003e\n\u003ch1 data-end=\"6332\" data-start=\"6311\" data-section-id=\"31mpa1\"\u003eACCLIMATION PROCESS\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp data-end=\"6463\" data-start=\"6334\"\u003eThis acclimation method helps reduce stress by gradually introducing the fish to your aquarium’s temperature and water chemistry.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2 data-end=\"6496\" data-start=\"6465\" data-section-id=\"1x3zjfk\"\u003e1. TURN OFF THE LIGHTS \u0026amp; ATO\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-end=\"6619\" data-start=\"6498\"\u003eTurn off aquarium lights to reduce stress. If you have an Auto Top Off system, switch it off before starting acclimation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2 data-end=\"6640\" data-start=\"6621\" data-section-id=\"1m48jbo\"\u003e2. FLOAT THE BAG\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-end=\"6763\" data-start=\"6642\"\u003eFloat the sealed bag in the aquarium for \u003cstrong data-end=\"6700\" data-start=\"6683\"\u003e15-20 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e to allow the temperature in the bag to equalize with the tank.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2 data-end=\"6802\" data-start=\"6765\" data-section-id=\"pkuw25\"\u003e3. OPEN BAG, ADD FISH TO CONTAINER\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-end=\"6901\" data-start=\"6804\"\u003eCarefully open the bag and transfer the fish and shipping water into a clean bucket or container.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2 data-end=\"6935\" data-start=\"6903\" data-section-id=\"1bsy6o5\"\u003e4. ACCLIMATE USING TANK WATER\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-end=\"7019\" data-start=\"6937\"\u003eAdd \u003cstrong data-end=\"6966\" data-start=\"6941\"\u003e1\/4 cup of tank water\u003c\/strong\u003e to the container every \u003cstrong data-end=\"7018\" data-start=\"6990\"\u003e5 minutes for 40 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2 data-end=\"7052\" data-start=\"7021\" data-section-id=\"zqkrr1\"\u003e5. TRANSFER FISH TO AQUARIUM\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-end=\"7215\" data-start=\"7054\"\u003eOnce acclimation is complete, use a net to gently transfer the fish into the aquarium. Discard the shipping water. Do not pour shipping water into your aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2 data-end=\"7257\" data-start=\"7217\" data-section-id=\"g414va\"\u003e6. REFILL THE AQUARIUM WITH SALTWATER\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-end=\"7351\" data-start=\"7259\"\u003eYou may need to replace the saltwater removed during acclimation with fresh mixed saltwater.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Summit City Coral","offers":[{"title":"Unspecified","offer_id":52241612636443,"sku":null,"price":69.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Fiji","offer_id":52241612669211,"sku":null,"price":69.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Lautoka","offer_id":52241612701979,"sku":null,"price":69.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Cebu","offer_id":52241612734747,"sku":null,"price":69.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0246\/5100\/5999\/files\/IMG_0516.jpg?v=1777637050"},{"product_id":"sailfin-tang","title":"Sailfin Tang","description":"\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eQUICK STATS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCare Level:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Moderate\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eDiet:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Herbivore \/ Omnivore\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTemperament:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Semi-Aggressive\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eReef-Safe:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Yes\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eVenomous\/Toxic:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e No\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eApproximate Purchase Size:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 2-5\"\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eApproximate Max Size:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Around 15\"\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eRecommended Tank Size:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 180 Gallons or Larger\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSAILFIN TANG\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThe \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSailfin Tang\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e (\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan\u003eZebrasoma velifer\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \/ \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan\u003eZebrasoma veliferum\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cspan\u003e) is a large and impressive surgeonfish known for its tall body, dramatic extended dorsal and anal fins, bold striping, and constant grazing behavior. When its fins are fully extended, it has a wide sail-like profile that makes it one of the most visually striking tangs in the hobby.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSailfin Tangs are active grazers that spend much of the day cruising through the aquarium and picking at algae on rockwork. They are hardy once established, but they need a mature aquarium, strong filtration, stable water quality, and plenty of swimming room. This is not a “cute little tang for now” fish. That sentence has ruined enough aquariums already.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThis species is considered \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ereef-safe\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e and should not bother corals or most invertebrates when properly fed. Like many \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan\u003eZebrasoma\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cspan\u003e tangs, it can become territorial toward other tangs, especially similarly shaped species such as Yellow Tangs, Scopas Tangs, Purple Tangs, or other Sailfin Tangs. Beautiful fish, giant fins, tiny tail scalpel, and an ego that apparently came pre-installed.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eNote:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Image is a representation of what to expect. The fish you receive may vary slightly in size, color, markings, fin shape, maturity, and overall appearance.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAQUARIUM REQUIREMENTS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAQUARIUM SIZE\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eA minimum tank size of \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e180 gallons or larger\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e is recommended for a Sailfin Tang. This species can reach around \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e15 inches\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e and needs substantial swimming room to stay healthy long term.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTank length and open swimming space matter. A long aquarium with clear swimming lanes is much better than a tall narrow aquarium pretending volume alone solves everything. Juvenile Sailfin Tangs are often sold small, but they grow into large, deep-bodied fish that need real space. Buying one tiny and hoping physics changes later remains a poor strategy, despite humanity’s commitment to trying it.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eHABITAT RECOMMENDATIONS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSailfin Tangs do best in large, mature aquariums with open swimming space, stable rockwork, strong filtration, and plenty of grazing opportunities.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAquascaping:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Provide open swimming room along with stable rock structures for grazing, shelter, and territory. Avoid overly dense aquascapes that block long swimming paths.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSubstrate:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Sand, fine aragonite, crushed coral, or bare-bottom systems can all work. This species does not depend heavily on the substrate.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eRockwork:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Live rock is strongly recommended. It provides grazing surfaces, shelter, territory, and biological filtration.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTank Maturity:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e A mature aquarium is preferred, especially one with natural algae and biofilm growth. Sailfin Tangs benefit from regular grazing opportunities throughout the day.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTank Cover:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e A tight-fitting lid is recommended. Tangs are not the most famous jumpers, but large startled fish can still make expensive athletic mistakes.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWATER PARAMETERS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSailfin Tangs are generally hardy once established, but they still need clean, stable marine conditions. “Hardy tang” does not mean “compatible with bad water,” though apparently every filtration system must learn that through suffering.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTemperature:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 72-78°F\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003epH Level:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 8.1-8.4\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSalinity:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 1.020-1.026 specific gravity\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAmmonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Ammonia and nitrite should remain undetectable. Nitrate should be kept as low as reasonably possible, ideally below 20 ppm.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWater Flow:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Moderate to strong water movement is ideal. Provide strong oxygenation, efficient filtration, and enough flow to move waste toward filtration while still allowing comfortable swimming space.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eDIET\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSailfin Tangs are primarily \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eherbivorous grazers\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e, though they will accept a variety of omnivore foods in the aquarium. A diet rich in marine algae is important for maintaining body weight, color, digestion, and immune health.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePRIMARY DIET\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFrozen Food:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Offer algae-rich frozen foods, mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, marine blends, and other high-quality frozen foods. We at Summit City Coral prefer frozen foods such as \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eLRS Herbivore Frenzy\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e and \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePE Mysis\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePrepared Herbivore Foods:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e High-quality herbivore pellets, marine algae pellets, spirulina flakes, and omnivore blends can help provide balanced nutrition.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAlgae-Based Foods:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Nori, seaweed sheets, spirulina, algae wafers, herbivore blends, and marine algae foods should be offered regularly. Clip seaweed sheets to the glass or rockwork so the tang can graze naturally.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eNatural Grazing:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Established live rock with film algae and biofilm can help support natural feeding behavior. This should be viewed as supplemental, not the entire feeding plan. A tang is not a free algae-control employee with luxury sail fins.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFEEDING FREQUENCY\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFeed small amounts \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e1-2 times per day\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e, with algae-based foods offered frequently. Tangs do best when they can graze throughout the day, so regular access to seaweed or algae-based foods is strongly recommended.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCOMPATIBILITY\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSailfin Tangs are semi-aggressive and can work well in large reef aquariums with appropriate tank mates. They may become territorial toward other tangs, especially other \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eZebrasoma\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e species or similarly shaped algae grazers.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCOMMON TANK MATES\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFish:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Clownfish, cardinalfish, wrasses, gobies, blennies, rabbitfish, foxfaces, dwarf angelfish, larger peaceful fish, and other community reef fish.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAvoid:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Other tangs or surgeonfish in smaller aquariums unless the tank is large enough and introductions are carefully managed. Avoid overly aggressive fish that may constantly harass the tang, as well as very timid fish that may be outcompeted.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eOther Tangs:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Use caution when mixing with other tangs. Add tangs carefully, provide plenty of space, and avoid combining too many similarly shaped or closely related species in undersized systems. Sailfin Tangs can be especially pushy with other \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan\u003eZebrasoma\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cspan\u003e tangs.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eInvertebrates:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Usually safe with cleaner shrimp, hermit crabs, snails, urchins, and common cleanup crew animals.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCoral:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Sailfin Tangs are considered \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ereef-safe\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e and should not bother soft corals, LPS, SPS, zoanthids, mushrooms, clams, or anemones. Like many herbivores, underfed individuals may become more likely to investigate surfaces they should leave alone, because hunger remains a terrible consultant.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eBEHAVIORAL NOTES\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTemperament:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Semi-aggressive. Usually manageable in properly sized aquariums, but may become territorial once established.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAlgae Grazing:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Strong grazer for film algae and softer algae growth. Still requires regular feeding and should not be used as the entire algae-control plan.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eReef Compatibility:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Excellent for reef tanks when properly fed. They generally ignore corals and most invertebrates.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSwimming Style:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Active swimmer that needs long open swimming paths and should not be cramped into undersized aquariums.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eLarge Adult Size:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Sailfin Tangs can become very large and deep-bodied. Their adult size should be considered before purchase, not after they start looking like a dinner plate with attitude.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFin Display:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e When the dorsal and anal fins are extended, the fish shows a dramatic sail-like shape. This display may happen during excitement, stress, territorial behavior, or general tang theatrics.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTang Scalpel:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Like other surgeonfish, Sailfin Tangs have a sharp scalpel-like spine near the tail used for defense. Use caution when catching, transferring, or working around the fish. It is not venomous, just equipped with a tiny biological box cutter, because apparently fish needed hardware.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTerritoriality:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e May show aggression toward other tangs or similarly shaped fish, especially after becoming established.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eColoration:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Typically shows tan, yellow, gray, and darker vertical striping with a bold sailfin body shape. Color intensity may vary depending on stress, diet, maturity, lighting, and overall health.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eDisease Susceptibility:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Like many tangs, Sailfin Tangs can be prone to external parasites when stressed. Quarantine, observation, strong nutrition, and stable water quality are strongly recommended.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTank Size Reality:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e This is a large, active tang that should be planned around adult size and swimming behavior, not purchase size. Juvenile Sailfin Tangs are how the ocean tricks people into future aquarium upgrades.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eJumping:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e A tight-fitting lid is recommended. Large fish can still make sudden, athletic mistakes.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eACCLIMATION PROCESS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThis acclimation method helps reduce stress by gradually introducing the fish to your aquarium’s temperature and water chemistry.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e1. TURN OFF THE LIGHTS \u0026amp; ATO\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTurn off aquarium lights to reduce stress. If you have an Auto Top Off system, switch it off before starting acclimation.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e2. FLOAT THE BAG\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFloat the sealed bag in the aquarium for \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e15-20 minutes\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e to allow the temperature in the bag to equalize with the tank.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e3. OPEN BAG, ADD FISH TO CONTAINER\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCarefully open the bag and transfer the fish and shipping water into a clean bucket or container.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e4. ACCLIMATE USING TANK WATER\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAdd \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e1\/4 cup of tank water\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e to the container every \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e5 minutes for 40 minutes\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e5. TRANSFER FISH TO AQUARIUM\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eOnce acclimation is complete, gently transfer the fish into the aquarium using a net or specimen container. Use caution near the tail spine when handling tangs. Discard the shipping water. Do not pour shipping water into your aquarium.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e6. REFILL THE AQUARIUM WITH SALTWATER\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eYou may need to replace the saltwater removed during acclimation with fresh mixed saltwater.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Summit City Coral","offers":[{"title":"Small","offer_id":49761541095707,"sku":null,"price":75.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Medium","offer_id":49924874895643,"sku":null,"price":89.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"Large","offer_id":50093190512923,"sku":"","price":109.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0246\/5100\/5999\/files\/IMG_9525.jpg?v=1738851587"},{"product_id":"geometric-hawk","title":"Geometric Pygmy Hawkfish","description":"","brand":"Summit City Coral","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":47036095070491,"sku":null,"price":55.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}]},{"product_id":"blue-mandarin","title":"Blue Green Mandarin","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"qMYqUG_convSearchResultHighlightRoot\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"\" data-turn-id-container=\"request-69f4c13c-768c-83ea-9b7a-bf81c73da797-2\" data-is-intersecting=\"true\"\u003e\n\u003csection class=\"text-token-text-primary w-full focus:outline-none has-data-writing-block:pointer-events-none [\u0026amp;:has([data-writing-block])\u0026gt;*]:pointer-events-auto R6Vx5W_threadScrollVars scroll-mb-[calc(var(--scroll-root-safe-area-inset-bottom,0px)+var(--thread-response-height))] scroll-mt-[calc(var(--header-height)+min(200px,max(70px,20svh)))]\" dir=\"auto\" data-turn-id=\"request-69f4c13c-768c-83ea-9b7a-bf81c73da797-2\" data-turn-id-container=\"request-69f4c13c-768c-83ea-9b7a-bf81c73da797-2\" data-testid=\"conversation-turn-68\" data-scroll-anchor=\"false\" data-turn=\"assistant\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"text-base my-auto mx-auto pb-10 [--thread-content-margin:var(--thread-content-margin-xs,calc(var(--spacing)*4))] @w-sm\/main:[--thread-content-margin:var(--thread-content-margin-sm,calc(var(--spacing)*6))] @w-lg\/main:[--thread-content-margin:var(--thread-content-margin-lg,calc(var(--spacing)*16))] px-(--thread-content-margin)\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"[--thread-content-max-width:40rem] @w-lg\/main:[--thread-content-max-width:48rem] mx-auto max-w-(--thread-content-max-width) flex-1 group\/turn-messages focus-visible:outline-hidden relative flex w-full min-w-0 flex-col agent-turn\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"flex max-w-full flex-col gap-4 grow\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv data-message-author-role=\"assistant\" data-message-id=\"7709db21-9f0f-426a-a6f5-26ac1b3962e5\" dir=\"auto\" data-message-model-slug=\"gpt-5-5-thinking\" class=\"min-h-8 text-message relative flex w-full flex-col items-end gap-2 text-start break-words whitespace-normal outline-none keyboard-focused:focus-ring [.text-message+\u0026amp;]:mt-1\" data-turn-start-message=\"true\" tabindex=\"0\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"flex w-full flex-col gap-1 empty:hidden\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"markdown prose dark:prose-invert wrap-break-word w-full dark markdown-new-styling\"\u003e\n\u003ch2 data-section-id=\"vovuw1\" data-start=\"393\" data-end=\"407\"\u003eQUICK STATS\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"409\" data-end=\"745\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"409\" data-end=\"424\"\u003eCare Level:\u003c\/strong\u003e Expert \/ Advanced\u003cbr data-start=\"442\" data-end=\"445\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"445\" data-end=\"454\"\u003eDiet:\u003c\/strong\u003e Carnivore \/ Microcrustacean Grazer\u003cbr data-start=\"489\" data-end=\"492\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"492\" data-end=\"508\"\u003eTemperament:\u003c\/strong\u003e Peaceful\u003cbr data-start=\"517\" data-end=\"520\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"520\" data-end=\"534\"\u003eReef-Safe:\u003c\/strong\u003e Yes\u003cbr data-start=\"538\" data-end=\"541\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"541\" data-end=\"554\"\u003eVenomous:\u003c\/strong\u003e No\u003cbr data-start=\"557\" data-end=\"560\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"560\" data-end=\"571\"\u003eSource:\u003c\/strong\u003e See Options\u003cbr data-start=\"583\" data-end=\"586\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"586\" data-end=\"616\"\u003eApproximate Purchase Size:\u003c\/strong\u003e 1.5-2.5\"\u003cbr data-start=\"625\" data-end=\"628\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"628\" data-end=\"653\"\u003eApproximate Max Size:\u003c\/strong\u003e Around 3\"\u003cbr data-start=\"663\" data-end=\"666\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"666\" data-end=\"692\"\u003eRecommended Tank Size:\u003c\/strong\u003e 30 Gallons Minimum, 50+ Gallons Strongly Preferred\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr data-start=\"747\" data-end=\"750\"\u003e\n\u003ch2 data-section-id=\"1cnirma\" data-start=\"752\" data-end=\"774\"\u003eBLUE GREEN MANDARIN\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"776\" data-end=\"1101\"\u003eThe \u003cstrong data-start=\"780\" data-end=\"803\"\u003eBlue Green Mandarin\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem data-start=\"805\" data-end=\"829\"\u003eSynchiropus splendidus\u003c\/em\u003e) is one of the most recognizable fish in the saltwater aquarium hobby, known for its electric blue, green, orange, and red maze-like patterning. Its slow, hovering movement and bold coloration make it look like a tiny psychedelic reef dragon quietly judging the rockwork.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"1103\" data-end=\"1643\"\u003eBlue Green Mandarins are peaceful, reef-safe fish that spend most of their day hunting tiny foods across live rock and sand. They will not bother corals or common invertebrates, but their feeding needs are very specific. A mature aquarium with a strong copepod population is extremely important for long-term success. Mandarin dragonets are often listed with a 30-gallon minimum, but smaller systems usually require heavy supplemental feeding because maintaining enough live food is the real challenge. \u003cspan class=\"\" data-state=\"closed\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"1645\" data-end=\"2037\"\u003eWhile some captive-bred or trained mandarins may accept frozen or prepared foods, this should be treated as a bonus, not the entire feeding plan. ORA notes that captive-bred Blue Mandarins may accept prepared frozen and dry foods after acclimation, but in reef tanks they often still default to eating naturally occurring live copepods from the rockwork. \u003cspan class=\"\" data-state=\"closed\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"2039\" data-end=\"2181\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"2039\" data-end=\"2048\"\u003eNote:\u003c\/strong\u003e Image is a representation of what to expect. The fish you receive may vary slightly in size, color, pattern, and overall appearance.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr data-start=\"2183\" data-end=\"2186\"\u003e\n\u003ch1 data-section-id=\"82rpn1\" data-start=\"2188\" data-end=\"2211\"\u003eAQUARIUM REQUIREMENTS\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003ch2 data-section-id=\"16vtdl3\" data-start=\"2213\" data-end=\"2229\"\u003eAQUARIUM SIZE\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"2231\" data-end=\"2820\"\u003eA \u003cstrong data-start=\"2233\" data-end=\"2255\"\u003e30-gallon aquarium\u003c\/strong\u003e is often listed as the minimum for a single Blue Green Mandarin, but \u003cstrong data-start=\"2325\" data-end=\"2371\"\u003e50 gallons or larger is strongly preferred\u003c\/strong\u003e for better long-term success. The real issue is not just swimming space, it is food production. Larger, mature aquariums with plenty of live rock can support stronger copepod populations and offer more natural grazing surfaces. Recent care guidance lists \u003cstrong data-start=\"2627\" data-end=\"2644\"\u003e30-50 gallons\u003c\/strong\u003e as an absolute minimum with heavy pod supplementation, while \u003cstrong data-start=\"2706\" data-end=\"2723\"\u003e50-75 gallons\u003c\/strong\u003e is more realistic for long-term success with one mandarin. \u003cspan class=\"\" data-state=\"closed\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2 data-section-id=\"1xl8pto\" data-start=\"2822\" data-end=\"2848\"\u003eHABITAT RECOMMENDATIONS\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"2850\" data-end=\"2979\"\u003eBlue Green Mandarins do best in mature reef aquariums with plenty of live rock, natural pod populations, and peaceful tank mates.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"2981\" data-end=\"3150\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"2981\" data-end=\"2997\"\u003eAquascaping:\u003c\/strong\u003e Provide generous live rock with caves, ledges, and open grazing surfaces. Mandarins spend much of the day picking through rockwork for tiny crustaceans.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"3152\" data-end=\"3305\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"3152\" data-end=\"3166\"\u003eSubstrate:\u003c\/strong\u003e Sand, fine aragonite, crushed coral, or bare-bottom systems can work, but live rock and natural grazing surfaces are especially important.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"3307\" data-end=\"3672\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"3307\" data-end=\"3325\"\u003eTank Maturity:\u003c\/strong\u003e A mature aquarium is strongly recommended. Bulk Reef Supply lists live rock as important cover, security, and natural hunting ground for mandarin dragonets. New tanks usually cannot support mandarins well, even if the water tests look acceptable, because the problem is food availability, not just chemistry. \u003cspan class=\"\" data-state=\"closed\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"3674\" data-end=\"3822\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"3674\" data-end=\"3701\"\u003eRefugium \/ Pod Support:\u003c\/strong\u003e A refugium, pod-safe rockwork, regular copepod additions, or separate pod culture can greatly improve long-term success.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"3824\" data-end=\"4010\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"3824\" data-end=\"3839\"\u003eTank Cover:\u003c\/strong\u003e A tight-fitting lid is recommended. Mandarins are not the most dramatic jumpers, but fish still occasionally treat open air like an opportunity. They are wrong, as usual.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr data-start=\"4012\" data-end=\"4015\"\u003e\n\u003ch1 data-section-id=\"1obglah\" data-start=\"4017\" data-end=\"4035\"\u003eWATER PARAMETERS\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"4037\" data-end=\"4314\"\u003eBlue Green Mandarins are generally hardy when their feeding needs are met, but they still require stable saltwater conditions. A mandarin can be in perfect water and still fail if it is not eating enough, because biology saw beauty and decided it needed a maintenance contract.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"4316\" data-end=\"4757\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"4316\" data-end=\"4332\"\u003eTemperature:\u003c\/strong\u003e 72-78°F\u003cbr data-start=\"4340\" data-end=\"4343\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"4343\" data-end=\"4356\"\u003epH Level:\u003c\/strong\u003e 8.1-8.4\u003cbr data-start=\"4364\" data-end=\"4367\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"4367\" data-end=\"4380\"\u003eSalinity:\u003c\/strong\u003e 1.020-1.026 specific gravity\u003cbr data-start=\"4409\" data-end=\"4412\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"4412\" data-end=\"4427\"\u003eAlkalinity:\u003c\/strong\u003e 8-12 dKH\u003cbr data-start=\"4436\" data-end=\"4439\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"4439\" data-end=\"4473\"\u003eAmmonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate:\u003c\/strong\u003e Ammonia and nitrite should remain undetectable. Nitrate should be kept as low as reasonably possible, ideally below 20 ppm.\u003cbr data-start=\"4597\" data-end=\"4600\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"4600\" data-end=\"4615\"\u003eWater Flow:\u003c\/strong\u003e Low to moderate flow is ideal. Mandarins are slow, deliberate swimmers and should have calmer areas where they can hunt and rest comfortably.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr data-start=\"4759\" data-end=\"4762\"\u003e\n\u003ch1 data-section-id=\"1htcpsq\" data-start=\"4764\" data-end=\"4770\"\u003eDIET\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"4772\" data-end=\"5131\"\u003eBlue Green Mandarins are specialized \u003cstrong data-start=\"4809\" data-end=\"4836\"\u003emicrocrustacean feeders\u003c\/strong\u003e. Their natural diet is made up of tiny live foods such as copepods, amphipods, and other small organisms found on live rock and sand. Feeding is the main challenge with mandarin dragonets, as they constantly forage for small crustaceans hidden in rockwork. \u003cspan class=\"\" data-state=\"closed\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2 data-section-id=\"j8hkph\" data-start=\"5133\" data-end=\"5148\"\u003ePRIMARY DIET\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"5150\" data-end=\"5302\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"5150\" data-end=\"5168\"\u003eLive Copepods:\u003c\/strong\u003e This should be the foundation of their diet. A healthy, renewable pod population is one of the most important parts of mandarin care.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"5304\" data-end=\"5465\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"5304\" data-end=\"5335\"\u003eLive or Frozen Small Foods:\u003c\/strong\u003e Some individuals may accept live baby brine shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, frozen daphnia, fish eggs, or very small frozen foods.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"5467\" data-end=\"5792\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"5467\" data-end=\"5486\"\u003ePrepared Foods:\u003c\/strong\u003e Captive-bred or trained individuals may accept small pellets or frozen prepared foods. ORA lists foods such as Nutramar Ova, finely chopped bloodworms, fish roe, frozen or live baby brine shrimp, frozen daphnia, and small fish pellets for captive-bred Blue Mandarins. \u003cspan class=\"\" data-state=\"closed\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"5794\" data-end=\"6060\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"5794\" data-end=\"5808\"\u003eShop Note:\u003c\/strong\u003e Even if a Blue Green Mandarin eats prepared foods at the store, we still recommend a mature aquarium with live copepods. Prepared food is useful. Pods are the safety net. Ignoring that is how a beautiful fish becomes a very expensive lesson with fins.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2 data-section-id=\"jowmzn\" data-start=\"6062\" data-end=\"6082\"\u003eFEEDING FREQUENCY\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"6084\" data-end=\"6400\"\u003eBlue Green Mandarins graze throughout the day. In tanks without a strong natural pod supply, they may need frequent target feeding and regular copepod additions. Smaller tanks can work only with heavy supplementation and careful feeding, but the margin for error gets thin fast. \u003cspan class=\"\" data-state=\"closed\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr data-start=\"6402\" data-end=\"6405\"\u003e\n\u003ch1 data-section-id=\"1gpoq14\" data-start=\"6407\" data-end=\"6422\"\u003eCOMPATIBILITY\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"6424\" data-end=\"6547\"\u003eBlue Green Mandarins are peaceful and work best with calm tank mates that will not harass them or outcompete them for food.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2 data-section-id=\"tzqlcm\" data-start=\"6549\" data-end=\"6569\"\u003eCOMMON TANK MATES\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"6571\" data-end=\"6747\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"6571\" data-end=\"6580\"\u003eFish:\u003c\/strong\u003e Clownfish, cardinalfish, firefish, peaceful gobies, peaceful blennies, smaller wrasses with caution, dwarf angelfish with caution, and other calm community reef fish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"6749\" data-end=\"6900\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"6749\" data-end=\"6759\"\u003eAvoid:\u003c\/strong\u003e Aggressive damsels, large predatory fish, aggressive wrasses, dottybacks that may harass them, and fast pod-hunting fish in smaller systems.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"6902\" data-end=\"7165\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"6902\" data-end=\"6922\"\u003ePod Competition:\u003c\/strong\u003e Use caution with other heavy pod-eaters such as leopard wrasses, scooter dragonets, other mandarins, and some small wrasses. The mandarin may be peaceful, but the food math still matters. Annoying, but starvation tends to be picky about math.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"7167\" data-end=\"7278\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"7167\" data-end=\"7185\"\u003eInvertebrates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Safe with cleaner shrimp, hermit crabs, snails, urchins, and most common reef invertebrates.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"7280\" data-end=\"7416\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"7280\" data-end=\"7290\"\u003eCoral:\u003c\/strong\u003e Blue Green Mandarins are \u003cstrong data-start=\"7316\" data-end=\"7329\"\u003ereef-safe\u003c\/strong\u003e and should not bother soft corals, LPS, SPS, zoanthids, mushrooms, clams, or anemones.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr data-start=\"7418\" data-end=\"7421\"\u003e\n\u003ch1 data-section-id=\"1tuscsk\" data-start=\"7423\" data-end=\"7441\"\u003eBEHAVIORAL NOTES\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"7443\" data-end=\"7516\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"7443\" data-end=\"7459\"\u003eTemperament:\u003c\/strong\u003e Peaceful and shy to moderately visible once established.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"7518\" data-end=\"7651\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"7518\" data-end=\"7537\"\u003eActivity Level:\u003c\/strong\u003e Constant grazer. They spend most of the day slowly moving across rockwork and substrate searching for tiny foods.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"7653\" data-end=\"7809\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"7653\" data-end=\"7670\"\u003eFeeding Risk:\u003c\/strong\u003e This is the main challenge. A Blue Green Mandarin can look fine while slowly losing weight, so body condition should be monitored closely.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"7811\" data-end=\"7941\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"7811\" data-end=\"7829\"\u003eTank Maturity:\u003c\/strong\u003e Best added to mature aquariums with established live rock and a strong pod population. New tanks are not ideal.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"7943\" data-end=\"8084\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"7943\" data-end=\"7970\"\u003eCaptive-Bred Advantage:\u003c\/strong\u003e Captive-bred specimens may accept prepared foods more readily, but they still benefit greatly from live copepods.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"8086\" data-end=\"8267\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"8086\" data-end=\"8114\"\u003eSame-Species Aggression:\u003c\/strong\u003e Avoid keeping multiple mandarins together unless they are a confirmed male-female pair in a large, mature aquarium with plenty of food. Males may fight.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"8269\" data-end=\"8477\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"8269\" data-end=\"8284\"\u003eColoration:\u003c\/strong\u003e Blue Green Mandarins are known for their intense blue-green patterning with orange and red accents. Individual color intensity may vary depending on age, sex, diet, stress level, and lighting.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"8479\" data-end=\"8566\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"8479\" data-end=\"8491\"\u003eJumping:\u003c\/strong\u003e A tight-fitting lid is recommended. Even slow fish can make fast mistakes.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr data-start=\"8568\" data-end=\"8571\"\u003e\n\u003ch1 data-section-id=\"31mpa1\" data-start=\"8573\" data-end=\"8594\"\u003eACCLIMATION PROCESS\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"8596\" data-end=\"8725\"\u003eThis acclimation method helps reduce stress by gradually introducing the fish to your aquarium’s temperature and water chemistry.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2 data-section-id=\"1x3zjfk\" data-start=\"8727\" data-end=\"8758\"\u003e1. TURN OFF THE LIGHTS \u0026amp; ATO\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"8760\" data-end=\"8881\"\u003eTurn off aquarium lights to reduce stress. If you have an Auto Top Off system, switch it off before starting acclimation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2 data-section-id=\"1m48jbo\" data-start=\"8883\" data-end=\"8902\"\u003e2. FLOAT THE BAG\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"8904\" data-end=\"9025\"\u003eFloat the sealed bag in the aquarium for \u003cstrong data-start=\"8945\" data-end=\"8962\"\u003e15-20 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e to allow the temperature in the bag to equalize with the tank.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2 data-section-id=\"pkuw25\" data-start=\"9027\" data-end=\"9064\"\u003e3. OPEN BAG, ADD FISH TO CONTAINER\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"9066\" data-end=\"9163\"\u003eCarefully open the bag and transfer the fish and shipping water into a clean bucket or container.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2 data-section-id=\"1bsy6o5\" data-start=\"9165\" data-end=\"9197\"\u003e4. ACCLIMATE USING TANK WATER\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"9199\" data-end=\"9281\"\u003eAdd \u003cstrong data-start=\"9203\" data-end=\"9228\"\u003e1\/4 cup of tank water\u003c\/strong\u003e to the container every \u003cstrong data-start=\"9252\" data-end=\"9280\"\u003e5 minutes for 40 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2 data-section-id=\"zqkrr1\" data-start=\"9283\" data-end=\"9314\"\u003e5. TRANSFER FISH TO AQUARIUM\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"9316\" data-end=\"9506\"\u003eOnce acclimation is complete, use a specimen container when possible to gently transfer the fish into the aquarium. Discard the shipping water. Do not pour shipping water into your aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2 data-section-id=\"g414va\" data-start=\"9508\" data-end=\"9548\"\u003e6. REFILL THE AQUARIUM WITH SALTWATER\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"9550\" data-end=\"9642\"\u003eYou may need to replace the saltwater removed during acclimation with fresh mixed saltwater.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/section\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Summit City Coral","offers":[{"title":"Wild","offer_id":52264429650203,"sku":"bluegreenmandarinw","price":22.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"Short Supply Chain","offer_id":52264429682971,"sku":"bluegreenmandarinssc","price":35.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Aquacultured","offer_id":52264429715739,"sku":"bluegreenmandarinaqc","price":40.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0246\/5100\/5999\/files\/IMG_1391.jpg?v=1779890815"},{"product_id":"sixline-wrasse","title":"Six Line Wrasse","description":"\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eQUICK STATS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCare Level:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Easy to Moderate\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eDiet:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Carnivore\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTemperament:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Semi-Aggressive\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eReef-Safe:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Yes, With Caution\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eVenomous\/Toxic:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e No\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eApproximate Purchase Size:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 1-2\"\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eApproximate Max Size:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Around 3-4\"\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eRecommended Tank Size:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 40-55 Gallons or Larger\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSIX LINE WRASSE\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThe \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSix Line Wrasse\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e (\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePseudocheilinus hexataenia\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cspan\u003e), also called the \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSixstripe Wrasse\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e, is a small, colorful reef fish known for its bright blue and orange horizontal striping, greenish body tones, and active hunting behavior. It is one of the most recognizable wrasses in the hobby and often becomes a highly visible, constantly moving fish once established.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSix Line Wrasses are popular because they are hardy, reef-safe, colorful, and useful for picking at small pests in reef aquariums. They may eat flatworms, pyramidellid snails, small bristleworms, and other tiny organisms found in rockwork. That said, they should not be treated as a guaranteed pest-control machine. They are fish, not a tiny striped exterminator with a service contract.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThis species is considered \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ereef-safe with caution\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e. It usually ignores corals, but it may harass very small shrimp, tiny ornamental crustaceans, feather dusters, or delicate tank mates. Six Line Wrasses can also become territorial, especially in smaller tanks or when added before more peaceful fish. Small fish, large ego. The ocean remains committed to comedy.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eNote:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Image is a representation of what to expect. The fish you receive may vary slightly in size, color, striping, markings, and overall appearance.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAQUARIUM REQUIREMENTS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAQUARIUM SIZE\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eA minimum tank size of \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e40 gallons or larger\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e is recommended for a Six Line Wrasse, with \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e55 gallons or larger preferred\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e for community reef aquariums. While some sources list smaller minimums, additional space helps reduce aggression and gives this active fish more room to patrol and hunt.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSix Line Wrasses stay small, but they are active, curious, and territorial. A larger aquarium with plenty of rockwork is usually better than trying to cram one into a tiny tank and acting surprised when it becomes a striped little menace.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eHABITAT RECOMMENDATIONS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSix Line Wrasses do best in established aquariums with live rock, caves, crevices, and plenty of hiding places.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAquascaping:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Provide live rock, caves, overhangs, and tight crevices. Six Line Wrasses weave through rockwork constantly while hunting and exploring.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSubstrate:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Sand, fine aragonite, crushed coral, or bare-bottom systems can all work. Unlike some wrasses, Six Line Wrasses do not require sand for sleeping.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eRockwork:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Live rock is strongly recommended. It provides shelter, territory, biological filtration, and natural hunting surfaces for pods, worms, and other tiny foods.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTank Maturity:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e A mature aquarium is preferred. Established rockwork supports natural microfauna and gives this fish more foraging opportunities.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTank Cover:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e A tight-fitting lid is mandatory. Six Line Wrasses are excellent jumpers, because apparently being fast, tiny, and suspicious was not enough of a survival strategy.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWATER PARAMETERS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSix Line Wrasses are generally hardy once established, but they still need clean, stable marine conditions. “Hardy wrasse” does not mean “compatible with water-quality crimes,” despite what the hobby keeps trying to prove.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTemperature:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 72-78°F\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003epH Level:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 8.1-8.4\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSalinity:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 1.020-1.026 specific gravity\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAmmonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Ammonia and nitrite should remain undetectable. Nitrate should be kept as low as reasonably possible, ideally below 20 ppm.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWater Flow:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Moderate water movement is ideal. Provide enough flow to keep the aquarium oxygenated, move food through the water column, and keep waste moving toward filtration, while still allowing calmer areas within the rockwork for resting.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eDIET\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSix Line Wrasses are \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ecarnivores\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e that naturally feed on small crustaceans, worms, pods, and other tiny meaty foods found around coral and rockwork. In aquariums, they usually adapt well to frozen and prepared foods once settled.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePRIMARY DIET\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFrozen Food:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Offer mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, cyclops, calanus, marine blends, finely chopped seafood, and other small frozen foods. We at Summit City Coral prefer frozen foods such as \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eLRS Reef Frenzy\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e and \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePE Mysis\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePrepared Foods:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e High-quality marine pellets, flakes, and carnivore or omnivore blends can help provide balanced nutrition. Smaller food sizes are best.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eLive Foods:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Copepods, amphipods, live brine shrimp, blackworms, and other small live foods can help encourage feeding, especially in newly introduced individuals.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eNatural Hunting:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Established live rock can provide pods, small worms, and other tiny foods for natural foraging. This should be viewed as supplemental, not the entire feeding plan. A Six Line Wrasse is not a pest-control subscription, even if it occasionally does useful work.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFEEDING FREQUENCY\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFeed small amounts \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e1-2 times per day\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e. Six Line Wrasses are usually quick, aggressive feeders, so make sure slower tank mates are still getting food and not just witnessing a tiny striped food robbery.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCOMPATIBILITY\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSix Line Wrasses can work well in reef aquariums, but tank mate selection matters. They are often peaceful when small or newly introduced, but may become territorial and pushy as they mature.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCOMMON TANK MATES\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFish:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Clownfish, cardinalfish, larger gobies, blennies, tangs, rabbitfish, dwarf angelfish, chromis, and other peaceful to semi-aggressive community fish.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAvoid:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Very timid fish, delicate firefish, small passive wrasses, tiny gobies, peaceful dartfish, and newly introduced shy fish that may be bullied. Avoid keeping with fish small enough to be viewed as food.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eOther Wrasses:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Use caution when mixing with other wrasses. Six Line Wrasses may harass fairy wrasses, flasher wrasses, possum wrasses, and other similar or peaceful wrasses, especially in smaller aquariums.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSimilar Species:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Avoid other lined wrasses or similar-shaped wrasses in smaller tanks unless the aquarium is large enough and carefully planned.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eInvertebrates:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Usually safe with larger cleaner shrimp, hermit crabs, snails, and urchins, but may eat very small ornamental shrimp, tiny crustaceans, feather dusters, flatworms, pyramidellid snails, or small worms.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCoral:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Six Line Wrasses are considered \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ereef-safe\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e with coral and should not bother soft corals, LPS, SPS, zoanthids, mushrooms, clams, or anemones. The caution is mainly with aggression and tiny invertebrates, not coral.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eBEHAVIORAL NOTES\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTemperament:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Semi-aggressive. Some individuals behave well in community tanks, while others become territorial bullies with excellent cardio.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePest Hunting:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e May eat flatworms, pyramidellid snails, small bristleworms, and other tiny pests. Helpful, but not guaranteed pest control.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eActivity Level:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Very active swimmer that constantly moves through rockwork and open areas.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eRockwork Use:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Frequently darts in and out of caves, coral branches, and crevices while hunting and patrolling.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSleeping Behavior:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Does not require sand to sleep. Like many wrasses, it may rest in rockwork and produce a mucus cocoon at night.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eReef Compatibility:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Good for reef aquariums, but best listed as reef-safe with caution due to aggression and possible predation on tiny invertebrates.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAggression Management:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Best added later in the stocking order, especially in peaceful community tanks. Adding peaceful fish after a settled Six Line can be a deeply educational mistake.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFeeding Behavior:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Usually a strong feeder and may aggressively grab food from the water column.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eColoration:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Typically shows six bright blue to purple horizontal stripes over an orange, pink, or greenish body, often with an eyespot near the tail. Color intensity may vary depending on stress, diet, maturity, and lighting.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eJumping:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e A tight-fitting lid is mandatory. Six Line Wrasses are known jumpers and can escape through small gaps with the determination of a tiny aquatic fugitive.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eACCLIMATION PROCESS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThis acclimation method helps reduce stress by gradually introducing the fish to your aquarium’s temperature and water chemistry.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e1. TURN OFF THE LIGHTS \u0026amp; ATO\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTurn off aquarium lights to reduce stress. If you have an Auto Top Off system, switch it off before starting acclimation.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e2. FLOAT THE BAG\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFloat the sealed bag in the aquarium for \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e15-20 minutes\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e to allow the temperature in the bag to equalize with the tank.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e3. OPEN BAG, ADD FISH TO CONTAINER\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCarefully open the bag and transfer the fish and shipping water into a clean bucket or container.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e4. ACCLIMATE USING TANK WATER\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAdd \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e1\/4 cup of tank water\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e to the container every \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e5 minutes for 40 minutes\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e5. TRANSFER FISH TO AQUARIUM\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eOnce acclimation is complete, gently transfer the fish into the aquarium using a net or specimen container. Discard the shipping water. Do not pour shipping water into your aquarium.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e6. REFILL THE AQUARIUM WITH SALTWATER\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eYou may need to replace the saltwater removed during acclimation with fresh mixed saltwater.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Summit City Coral","offers":[{"title":"Wild","offer_id":52238596735259,"sku":null,"price":35.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"SSC","offer_id":52238596768027,"sku":null,"price":42.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0246\/5100\/5999\/files\/IMG_3409.jpg?v=1753973575"},{"product_id":"diamond-goby","title":"Diamond Watchman Goby","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"quick_stat_entry\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"quick_stat_label\"\u003eValenciennea puellaris\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"quick_stat_entry\"\u003e\n\u003cspan class=\"quick_stat_label\"\u003e\u003ca\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eCare Level:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"quick_stat_value\"\u003eEasy\u003c\/span\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"quick_stat_entry\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"quick_stat_label\"\u003e\u003ca\u003eTemperament: \u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"quick_stat_value\"\u003ePeaceful\u003c\/span\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"quick_stat_entry\"\u003e\n\u003cspan class=\"quick_stat_label\"\u003e\u003ca\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDiet:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"quick_stat_value\"\u003eCarnivore\u003c\/span\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"quick_stat_entry\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"quick_stat_label\"\u003e\u003ca\u003eReef Compatible: \u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"quick_stat_value\"\u003eYes\u003c\/span\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"quick_stat_entry\"\u003e\n\u003cspan class=\"quick_stat_label\"\u003e\u003ca\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Conditions:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"quick_stat_value\"\u003esg 1.020-1.025, 72-78° F, dKH 8-12, pH 8.1-8.4\u003c\/span\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"quick_stat_entry\"\u003e\n\u003cspan class=\"quick_stat_label\"\u003e\u003ca\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMax Size:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"quick_stat_value\"\u003e6\"\u003c\/span\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"quick_stat_entry\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"quick_stat_label\"\u003e\u003ca\u003eFamily: \u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"quick_stat_value\"\u003eGobiidae\u003c\/span\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"quick_stat_entry\"\u003e\n\u003cspan class=\"quick_stat_label\"\u003e\u003ca\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMinimum Tank Size:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"quick_stat_value\"\u003e30 gallons\u003c\/span\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Summit City Coral","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":47036096577819,"sku":null,"price":30.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0246\/5100\/5999\/files\/IMG_5347.jpg?v=1760117813"},{"product_id":"orange-lyretial-anthias-female","title":"Orange Lyretail Anthias","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"quick_stat_entry\"\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eQUICK STATS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCare Level:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Moderate\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eDiet:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Carnivore \/ Planktivore\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTemperament:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Peaceful to Semi-Aggressive\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eReef-Safe:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Yes\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eVenomous\/Toxic:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e No\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eApproximate Purchase Size:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 2-4\"\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eApproximate Max Size:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Around 4-5\"\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eRecommended Tank Size:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 75-125 Gallons or Larger\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eORANGE LYRETAIL ANTHIAS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThe \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eOrange Lyretail Anthias\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e (\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePseudanthias squamipinnis\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cspan\u003e) is a bright, active reef fish known for its vivid orange coloration, graceful swimming behavior, and constant movement in the water column. The orange individuals sold in the aquarium trade are usually females or juveniles, while males typically develop stronger red, purple, or pink tones with more dramatic fin extensions.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eOrange Lyretail Anthias are popular in reef aquariums because they add color, activity, and a natural schooling look. They spend much of the day swimming in open water and picking small foods from the water column. Basically, they are tiny reef confetti with metabolisms that refuse to calm down.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThis species is considered \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ereef-safe\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e and should not bother corals or most invertebrates. They do best in established aquariums with peaceful to semi-peaceful tank mates, plenty of swimming room, and frequent feeding. Anthias are beautiful fish, but they are not “feed whenever you remember” fish. Sadly, convenience has once again been defeated by biology.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eNote:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Image is a representation of what to expect. The fish you receive may vary slightly in size, color, sex, markings, fin shape, and overall appearance.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAQUARIUM REQUIREMENTS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAQUARIUM SIZE\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eA minimum tank size of \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e75 gallons or larger\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e is recommended for a single Orange Lyretail Anthias, with \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e125 gallons or larger preferred\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e for groups or harems. This species is an active swimmer and benefits from long open swimming space.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAlthough individual Lyretail Anthias are not huge fish, they are very active and do best in aquariums with room to move. Larger systems also provide better stability and reduce aggression when keeping multiple anthias together.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eHABITAT RECOMMENDATIONS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eOrange Lyretail Anthias do best in established aquariums with open swimming space, live rock, shaded areas, and secure hiding places.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAquascaping:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Provide open swimming room along with rockwork, caves, ledges, and overhangs. Anthias like to swim in the open but still need shelter when startled or resting.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSubstrate:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Sand, fine aragonite, crushed coral, or bare-bottom systems can all work. This species does not depend heavily on the substrate.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eRockwork:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Live rock is strongly recommended. It provides shelter, territory, biological filtration, and natural foraging areas.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTank Maturity:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e A mature aquarium is preferred. Stable water quality and consistent feeding are important for keeping anthias healthy long term.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTank Cover:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e A tight-fitting lid is strongly recommended. Anthias can jump, because apparently even beautiful open-water fish occasionally decide the floor deserves a visit.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWATER PARAMETERS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eOrange Lyretail Anthias are generally hardy once established, but they still need clean, stable marine conditions. “Hardy anthias” does not mean “immune to neglect,” because biology remains annoyingly literal.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTemperature:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 72-78°F\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003epH Level:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 8.1-8.4\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSalinity:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 1.020-1.026 specific gravity\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAmmonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Ammonia and nitrite should remain undetectable. Nitrate should be kept as low as reasonably possible, ideally below 20 ppm.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWater Flow:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Moderate water movement is ideal. Provide enough flow to keep the aquarium oxygenated and move small foods through the water column, while still allowing calmer areas near rockwork for resting.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eDIET\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eOrange Lyretail Anthias are \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ecarnivorous planktivores\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e that naturally feed on tiny drifting foods such as zooplankton and small crustaceans. In aquariums, they need a varied diet of small meaty foods and should be fed more frequently than many common reef fish.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePRIMARY DIET\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFrozen Food:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Offer mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, cyclops, calanus, marine blends, finely chopped seafood, and other small frozen foods. We at Summit City Coral prefer frozen foods such as \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eLRS Reef Frenzy\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e and \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePE Mysis\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePrepared Foods:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e High-quality small marine pellets, flakes, and carnivore or omnivore blends can help provide a balanced diet once the fish is eating reliably. Smaller pellet sizes are best.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eLive Foods:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Copepods, amphipods, live brine shrimp, and other small live foods can help encourage feeding, especially in newly introduced or shy individuals.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSmall Planktonic Foods:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Small foods that stay suspended in the water column are especially useful. Anthias are built to pick food from moving water, not compete for giant chunks like tiny orange linebackers.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFEEDING FREQUENCY\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFeed small amounts \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e2-3 times per day\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e, with \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e3 or more smaller feedings preferred\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e when possible. Anthias have fast metabolisms and do best with frequent small meals. One giant daily feeding is not ideal, no matter how much human scheduling insists otherwise.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCOMPATIBILITY\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eOrange Lyretail Anthias are generally peaceful to semi-aggressive and work well in reef community aquariums. They are active but usually not overly aggressive toward unrelated peaceful fish.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCOMMON TANK MATES\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFish:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Clownfish, cardinalfish, gobies, blennies, firefish, chromis, peaceful wrasses, tangs, rabbitfish, dwarf angelfish, and other peaceful to semi-peaceful reef fish.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAvoid:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Large predatory fish, aggressive dottybacks, overly aggressive damsels, triggers that may bully them, groupers, lionfish, and any fish likely to harass or eat them.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSame Species:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Can be kept singly or in groups. Groups are often best kept as one male with multiple females in larger aquariums. Multiple males may fight, because apparently even tiny orange fish needed workplace drama.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eOther Anthias:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Use caution when mixing different anthias species. Larger aquariums with plenty of swimming space and frequent feeding improve the odds of success.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eInvertebrates:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Safe with cleaner shrimp, hermit crabs, snails, urchins, and most common reef invertebrates.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCoral:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Orange Lyretail Anthias are considered \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ereef-safe\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e and should not bother soft corals, LPS, SPS, zoanthids, mushrooms, clams, or anemones.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eBEHAVIORAL NOTES\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTemperament:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Peaceful to semi-aggressive. Usually peaceful with unrelated tank mates but may show hierarchy behavior within anthias groups.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eActivity Level:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Very active swimmer. Best suited for aquariums with open swimming space.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eGroup Behavior:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Often kept singly or in groups. In groups, a hierarchy usually forms, and one dominant individual may become male over time.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSex Change:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Lyretail Anthias are protogynous, meaning females can transition to male if social conditions allow. Nature apparently looked at aquarium stocking plans and said, “Cute. I’ll improvise.”\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eColor Difference:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Orange individuals are usually females or juveniles. Males often develop stronger red, purple, or pink coloration with more pronounced fins.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eReef Compatibility:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Excellent for reef tanks. They generally ignore corals and invertebrates.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFeeding Needs:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Requires frequent small meals to maintain body weight and energy. Thin anthias should be addressed quickly with increased feeding frequency and smaller foods.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSwimming Zone:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Usually occupies the middle to upper water column and adds constant movement to the aquarium.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eJumping:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e A tight-fitting lid is strongly recommended. Active anthias can jump when startled, because apparently staying in the expensive saltwater box was too much to ask.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eACCLIMATION PROCESS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThis acclimation method helps reduce stress by gradually introducing the fish to your aquarium’s temperature and water chemistry.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e1. TURN OFF THE LIGHTS \u0026amp; ATO\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTurn off aquarium lights to reduce stress. If you have an Auto Top Off system, switch it off before starting acclimation.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e2. FLOAT THE BAG\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFloat the sealed bag in the aquarium for \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e15-20 minutes\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e to allow the temperature in the bag to equalize with the tank.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e3. OPEN BAG, ADD FISH TO CONTAINER\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCarefully open the bag and transfer the fish and shipping water into a clean bucket or container.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e4. ACCLIMATE USING TANK WATER\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAdd \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e1\/4 cup of tank water\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e to the container every \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e5 minutes for 40 minutes\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e5. TRANSFER FISH TO AQUARIUM\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eOnce acclimation is complete, gently transfer the fish into the aquarium using a net or specimen container. Discard the shipping water. Do not pour shipping water into your aquarium.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e6. REFILL THE AQUARIUM WITH SALTWATER\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eYou may need to replace the saltwater removed during acclimation with fresh mixed saltwater.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Summit City Coral","offers":[{"title":"Wild Female","offer_id":49891027714331,"sku":"","price":35.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Wild Male","offer_id":49891027747099,"sku":"","price":45.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"SSC Female","offer_id":52238597652763,"sku":null,"price":35.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"SSC Male","offer_id":52312847483163,"sku":null,"price":45.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0246\/5100\/5999\/files\/IMG_8875.jpg?v=1738857862"},{"product_id":"algae-blenny","title":"Algae Blenny","description":"\u003ch2 data-section-id=\"vovuw1\" data-start=\"286\" data-end=\"300\"\u003eQUICK STATS\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"302\" data-end=\"629\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"302\" data-end=\"317\"\u003eCare Level:\u003c\/strong\u003e Easy to Moderate\u003cbr data-start=\"334\" data-end=\"337\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"337\" data-end=\"346\"\u003eDiet:\u003c\/strong\u003e Herbivore \/ Omnivore\u003cbr data-start=\"367\" data-end=\"370\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"370\" data-end=\"386\"\u003eTemperament:\u003c\/strong\u003e Peaceful, May Be Territorial Toward Similar Fish\u003cbr data-start=\"435\" data-end=\"438\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"438\" data-end=\"452\"\u003eReef-Safe:\u003c\/strong\u003e Yes\u003cbr data-start=\"501\" data-end=\"504\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"504\" data-end=\"534\"\u003eApproximate Purchase Size:\u003c\/strong\u003e 2-4\"\u003cbr data-start=\"539\" data-end=\"542\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"542\" data-end=\"567\"\u003eApproximate Max Size:\u003c\/strong\u003e Around 5\"\u003cbr data-start=\"577\" data-end=\"580\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"580\" data-end=\"606\"\u003eRecommended Tank Size:\u003c\/strong\u003e 30 Gallons or Larger\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr data-start=\"631\" data-end=\"634\"\u003e\n\u003ch2 data-section-id=\"1j5dsih\" data-start=\"636\" data-end=\"651\"\u003eALGAE BLENNY\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"653\" data-end=\"1035\"\u003eThe \u003cstrong data-start=\"657\" data-end=\"673\"\u003eAlgae Blenny\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem data-start=\"675\" data-end=\"695\"\u003eSalarias fasciatus\u003c\/em\u003e), also commonly called the \u003cstrong data-start=\"723\" data-end=\"743\"\u003eLawnmower Blenny\u003c\/strong\u003e, is a hardworking and entertaining saltwater fish known for its constant grazing behavior, expressive face, and absolute refusal to look normal in a photograph. This fish spends much of its day hopping across rockwork, perching on surfaces, and picking at microalgae throughout the aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"1037\" data-end=\"1340\"\u003eAlgae Blennies are popular for established reef tanks because they are generally hardy, peaceful, and reef-safe. They can help graze on film algae and other soft algae growths, but they should not be treated as a complete algae-control plan. They are fish, not unpaid aquarium interns with dental tools.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"1342\" data-end=\"1564\"\u003eThis species does best in mature aquariums with plenty of live rock and natural algae growth. In newer or overly clean tanks, they may struggle to find enough natural grazing material, so supplemental feeding is important.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"1566\" data-end=\"1708\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"1566\" data-end=\"1575\"\u003eNote:\u003c\/strong\u003e Image is a representation of what to expect. The fish you receive may vary slightly in size, color, pattern, and overall appearance.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr data-start=\"1710\" data-end=\"1713\"\u003e\n\u003ch1 data-section-id=\"82rpn1\" data-start=\"1715\" data-end=\"1738\"\u003eAQUARIUM REQUIREMENTS\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003ch2 data-section-id=\"16vtdl3\" data-start=\"1740\" data-end=\"1756\"\u003eAQUARIUM SIZE\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"1758\" data-end=\"2143\"\u003eA minimum tank size of \u003cstrong data-start=\"1781\" data-end=\"1805\"\u003e30 gallons or larger\u003c\/strong\u003e is recommended for an Algae Blenny. While they are not constant open-water swimmers, they do need enough rockwork and surface area to graze, perch, and establish a comfortable territory. Multiple aquarium care sources list a 30-gallon minimum and a max size around 5 inches for \u003cem data-start=\"2084\" data-end=\"2104\"\u003eSalarias fasciatus\u003c\/em\u003e. \u003cspan class=\"\" data-state=\"closed\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2 data-section-id=\"1xl8pto\" data-start=\"2145\" data-end=\"2171\"\u003eHABITAT RECOMMENDATIONS\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"2173\" data-end=\"2279\"\u003eAlgae Blennies do best in mature aquariums with live rock, stable water quality, and natural algae growth.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"2281\" data-end=\"2459\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"2281\" data-end=\"2297\"\u003eAquascaping:\u003c\/strong\u003e Provide plenty of live rock with caves, ledges, and open grazing surfaces. They enjoy perching and hopping from spot to spot like tiny judgmental reef gargoyles.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"2461\" data-end=\"2560\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"2461\" data-end=\"2475\"\u003eSubstrate:\u003c\/strong\u003e Sand or fine aragonite works well and helps create a natural reef-style environment.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"2562\" data-end=\"2673\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"2562\" data-end=\"2575\"\u003eRockwork:\u003c\/strong\u003e Established live rock is highly recommended. The more surfaces available for grazing, the better.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"2675\" data-end=\"2809\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"2675\" data-end=\"2693\"\u003eTank Maturity:\u003c\/strong\u003e A mature aquarium is strongly preferred. New tanks may not have enough algae or biofilm to support natural grazing.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"2811\" data-end=\"2966\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"2811\" data-end=\"2826\"\u003eTank Cover:\u003c\/strong\u003e A tight-fitting lid is recommended. Blennies are not always the worst jumpers, but fish are famous for turning tiny gaps into crime scenes.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr data-start=\"2968\" data-end=\"2971\"\u003e\n\u003ch1 data-section-id=\"1obglah\" data-start=\"2973\" data-end=\"2991\"\u003eWATER PARAMETERS\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"2993\" data-end=\"3195\"\u003eAlgae Blennies are considered hardy once established, but they still require clean, stable saltwater conditions. “Hardy” does not mean “place in chaos and hope,” despite humanity’s repeated experiments.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"3197\" data-end=\"3677\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"3197\" data-end=\"3213\"\u003eTemperature:\u003c\/strong\u003e 72-78°F\u003cbr data-start=\"3221\" data-end=\"3224\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"3224\" data-end=\"3237\"\u003epH Level:\u003c\/strong\u003e 8.1-8.4\u003cbr data-start=\"3245\" data-end=\"3248\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"3248\" data-end=\"3261\"\u003eSalinity:\u003c\/strong\u003e 1.020-1.025 specific gravity\u003cbr data-start=\"3290\" data-end=\"3293\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"3293\" data-end=\"3308\"\u003eAlkalinity:\u003c\/strong\u003e 8-12 dKH\u003cbr data-start=\"3317\" data-end=\"3320\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"3320\" data-end=\"3354\"\u003eAmmonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate:\u003c\/strong\u003e Ammonia and nitrite should remain undetectable. Nitrate should be kept as low as reasonably possible, ideally below 20 ppm.\u003cbr data-start=\"3478\" data-end=\"3481\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"3481\" data-end=\"3496\"\u003eWater Flow:\u003c\/strong\u003e Moderate water movement is ideal. Good flow helps move waste toward filtration while still allowing the blenny to perch and graze comfortably. \u003cspan class=\"\" data-state=\"closed\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr data-start=\"3679\" data-end=\"3682\"\u003e\n\u003ch1 data-section-id=\"1htcpsq\" data-start=\"3684\" data-end=\"3690\"\u003eDIET\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"3692\" data-end=\"4024\"\u003eAlgae Blennies are primarily \u003cstrong data-start=\"3721\" data-end=\"3744\"\u003eherbivorous grazers\u003c\/strong\u003e, though they may accept a variety of prepared foods. In the aquarium, they spend much of their time scraping and picking at algae and biofilm from rockwork, glass, and other surfaces. They should still be offered supplemental foods, especially once natural algae becomes limited.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2 data-section-id=\"j8hkph\" data-start=\"4026\" data-end=\"4041\"\u003ePRIMARY DIET\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"4043\" data-end=\"4155\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"4043\" data-end=\"4063\"\u003eNatural Grazing:\u003c\/strong\u003e Algae Blennies graze on film algae, soft algae growth, and biofilm throughout the aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"4157\" data-end=\"4371\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"4157\" data-end=\"4175\"\u003eShop Favorite:\u003c\/strong\u003e Our favorite food to offer is \u003cstrong data-start=\"4206\" data-end=\"4233\"\u003eHerbivore Frenzy by LRS\u003c\/strong\u003e because it provides a strong variety of herbivore-focused marine ingredients and helps support fish that need more plant-based nutrition.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"4373\" data-end=\"4537\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"4373\" data-end=\"4395\"\u003eAlgae-Based Foods:\u003c\/strong\u003e Offer nori, spirulina flakes, herbivore pellets, and algae wafers. Attach seaweed sheets to a clip or rock so the blenny can graze naturally.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"4539\" data-end=\"4667\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"4539\" data-end=\"4558\"\u003ePrepared Foods:\u003c\/strong\u003e High-quality marine pellets or flakes may be accepted, especially formulas made for herbivores or omnivores.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"4669\" data-end=\"4835\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"4669\" data-end=\"4685\"\u003eFrozen Food:\u003c\/strong\u003e Occasional mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, or mixed marine foods can be offered for variety, but algae-based foods should remain the main focus.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2 data-section-id=\"jowmzn\" data-start=\"4837\" data-end=\"4857\"\u003eFEEDING FREQUENCY\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"4859\" data-end=\"5078\"\u003eFeed small amounts \u003cstrong data-start=\"4878\" data-end=\"4899\"\u003e1-2 times per day\u003c\/strong\u003e, especially in tanks without heavy natural algae growth. A blenny with no algae and no supplemental food is not “cleaning the tank,” it is slowly regretting everyone’s decisions.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr data-start=\"5080\" data-end=\"5083\"\u003e\n\u003ch1 data-section-id=\"1gpoq14\" data-start=\"5085\" data-end=\"5100\"\u003eCOMPATIBILITY\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"5102\" data-end=\"5294\"\u003eAlgae Blennies are generally peaceful and work well in community reef aquariums. They may become territorial toward other blennies, gobies, or similar-shaped fish, especially in smaller tanks.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2 data-section-id=\"tzqlcm\" data-start=\"5296\" data-end=\"5316\"\u003eCOMMON TANK MATES\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"5318\" data-end=\"5444\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"5318\" data-end=\"5327\"\u003eFish:\u003c\/strong\u003e Clownfish, cardinalfish, wrasses, firefish, tangs, dwarf angelfish, peaceful damsels, and other community reef fish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"5446\" data-end=\"5597\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"5446\" data-end=\"5456\"\u003eAvoid:\u003c\/strong\u003e Other algae blennies or similarly shaped bottom-perching fish in smaller aquariums unless the tank is large enough with plenty of territory.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"5599\" data-end=\"5718\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"5599\" data-end=\"5617\"\u003eInvertebrates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Safe with most cleaner shrimp, hermit crabs, snails, urchins, and other common cleanup crew animals.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"5720\" data-end=\"6081\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"5720\" data-end=\"5730\"\u003eCoral:\u003c\/strong\u003e Algae Blennies are considered \u003cstrong data-start=\"5761\" data-end=\"5774\"\u003ereef-safe\u003c\/strong\u003e and generally do not bother soft corals, LPS, SPS, zoanthids, mushrooms, or anemones. Some sources note that stressed or underfed individuals may occasionally nip at coral polyps, so regular feeding still matters. Because apparently even reef-safe fish have footnotes. \u003cspan class=\"\" data-state=\"closed\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr data-start=\"6083\" data-end=\"6086\"\u003e\n\u003ch1 data-section-id=\"1tuscsk\" data-start=\"6088\" data-end=\"6106\"\u003eBEHAVIORAL NOTES\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"6108\" data-end=\"6208\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"6108\" data-end=\"6124\"\u003eTemperament:\u003c\/strong\u003e Peaceful overall, though they may defend their favorite perching and grazing areas.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"6210\" data-end=\"6337\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"6210\" data-end=\"6228\"\u003eAlgae Control:\u003c\/strong\u003e Helpful for grazing film algae and soft algae growth, but not a complete solution for severe algae problems.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"6339\" data-end=\"6489\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"6339\" data-end=\"6355\"\u003ePersonality:\u003c\/strong\u003e Often very visible once settled, with a goofy perching behavior and expressive face that looks mildly disappointed in your aquascape.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"6491\" data-end=\"6590\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"6491\" data-end=\"6514\"\u003eReef Compatibility:\u003c\/strong\u003e Excellent for most reef tanks. They usually ignore coral and invertebrates.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"6592\" data-end=\"6678\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"6592\" data-end=\"6611\"\u003eTerritoriality:\u003c\/strong\u003e May act aggressively toward other blennies or similar-shaped fish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"6680\" data-end=\"6820\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"6680\" data-end=\"6692\"\u003eJumping:\u003c\/strong\u003e A tight-fitting lid is recommended. The fish may look like it belongs on a rock, but it can still make terrible aerial choices.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr data-start=\"6822\" data-end=\"6825\"\u003e\n\u003ch1 data-section-id=\"31mpa1\" data-start=\"6827\" data-end=\"6848\"\u003eACCLIMATION PROCESS\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"6850\" data-end=\"6979\"\u003eThis acclimation method helps reduce stress by gradually introducing the fish to your aquarium’s temperature and water chemistry.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2 data-section-id=\"1x3zjfk\" data-start=\"6981\" data-end=\"7012\"\u003e1. TURN OFF THE LIGHTS \u0026amp; ATO\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"7014\" data-end=\"7135\"\u003eTurn off aquarium lights to reduce stress. If you have an Auto Top Off system, switch it off before starting acclimation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2 data-section-id=\"1m48jbo\" data-start=\"7137\" data-end=\"7156\"\u003e2. FLOAT THE BAG\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"7158\" data-end=\"7279\"\u003eFloat the sealed bag in the aquarium for \u003cstrong data-start=\"7199\" data-end=\"7216\"\u003e15-20 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e to allow the temperature in the bag to equalize with the tank.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2 data-section-id=\"pkuw25\" data-start=\"7281\" data-end=\"7318\"\u003e3. OPEN BAG, ADD FISH TO CONTAINER\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"7320\" data-end=\"7417\"\u003eCarefully open the bag and transfer the fish and shipping water into a clean bucket or container.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2 data-section-id=\"1bsy6o5\" data-start=\"7419\" data-end=\"7451\"\u003e4. ACCLIMATE USING TANK WATER\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"7453\" data-end=\"7535\"\u003eAdd \u003cstrong data-start=\"7457\" data-end=\"7482\"\u003e1\/4 cup of tank water\u003c\/strong\u003e to the container every \u003cstrong data-start=\"7506\" data-end=\"7534\"\u003e5 minutes for 40 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2 data-section-id=\"zqkrr1\" data-start=\"7537\" data-end=\"7568\"\u003e5. TRANSFER FISH TO AQUARIUM\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"7570\" data-end=\"7753\"\u003eOnce acclimation is complete, use a net or specimen container to gently transfer the fish into the aquarium. Discard the shipping water. Do not pour shipping water into your aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2 data-section-id=\"g414va\" data-start=\"7755\" data-end=\"7795\"\u003e6. REFILL THE AQUARIUM WITH SALTWATER\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"7797\" data-end=\"7889\"\u003eYou may need to replace the saltwater removed during acclimation with fresh mixed saltwater.\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Summit City Coral","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":51733265023259,"sku":"algaeblenny","price":25.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0246\/5100\/5999\/files\/IMG_7236.jpg?v=1782689038"},{"product_id":"hector-goby","title":"Hector’s Hover Goby","description":"\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eQUICK STATS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCare Level:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Easy to Moderate\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eDiet:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Omnivore \/ Herbivore-Leaning\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTemperament:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Peaceful\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eReef-Safe:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Yes\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eVenomous\/Toxic:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e No\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eApproximate Purchase Size:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 1-2\"\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eApproximate Max Size:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Around 2-3\"\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eRecommended Tank Size:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 20-30 Gallons or Larger\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eHECTOR’S GOBY\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThe \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eHector’s Goby\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e (\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan\u003eKoumansetta hectori\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cspan\u003e), also known as \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eHector’s Hover Goby\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e, is a small peaceful reef fish known for its dark body, bold yellow horizontal striping, and subtle hovering behavior over rockwork and substrate. It is sometimes still listed under the older name \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAmblygobius hectori\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cspan\u003e, because apparently even tiny gobies need an alias.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eHector’s Gobies are excellent candidates for peaceful reef aquariums, especially mature systems with live rock, sand, and natural grazing surfaces. They spend much of their time picking at algae, biofilm, and tiny foods on rocks and substrate. They may also sift small amounts of sand while foraging, though they are usually not as disruptive as larger sleeper gobies.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThis species is generally considered reef-safe and should not bother corals or common invertebrates. It can be useful for light algae grazing and sandbed foraging, but it should not be treated as a complete algae-control solution. It is a fish, not a tiny striped maintenance employee, despite the tempting fantasy.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eNote:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Image is a representation of what to expect. The fish you receive may vary slightly in size, color, markings, and overall appearance.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAQUARIUM REQUIREMENTS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAQUARIUM SIZE\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eA minimum tank size of \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e20 gallons or larger\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e is recommended for a Hector’s Goby, though \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e30 gallons or larger\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e is preferred for better stability, more grazing surfaces, and more room for tank mates.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWhile some care references list Hector’s Gobies as suitable for smaller nano aquariums, a slightly larger established system gives them more natural food availability and a more stable environment. Tiny fish still live in water chemistry, tragically.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eHABITAT RECOMMENDATIONS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eHector’s Gobies do best in established reef aquariums with live rock, open substrate areas, and plenty of natural grazing surfaces.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAquascaping:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Provide live rock, caves, crevices, and open areas along the sandbed. These gobies often hover close to the rock and substrate while picking at tiny foods.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSubstrate:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Fine sand or soft aragonite is recommended. Hector’s Gobies may sift or pick through the substrate while foraging, so avoid sharp or overly coarse material.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eRockwork:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Live rock is strongly recommended. It provides shelter, biological filtration, and natural grazing surfaces for algae and biofilm.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTank Maturity:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e A mature aquarium is preferred. Established rockwork and substrate provide more natural microfauna, film algae, and biofilm for grazing.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTank Cover:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e A tight-fitting lid is recommended. Gobies are known jumpers, because apparently remaining inside the safe glass box was too straightforward.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWATER PARAMETERS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eHector’s Gobies are generally hardy once established, but they still need clean, stable marine conditions. “Small and peaceful” does not mean “immune to unstable water,” though nano tanks continue trying to make that everyone’s problem.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTemperature:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 72-78°F\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003epH Level:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 8.1-8.4\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSalinity:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 1.020-1.026 specific gravity\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAmmonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Ammonia and nitrite should remain undetectable. Nitrate should be kept as low as reasonably possible, ideally below 20 ppm.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWater Flow:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Low to moderate flow is ideal. Provide enough movement to keep the aquarium oxygenated and move waste toward filtration, while still allowing calmer areas near the rockwork and sandbed for foraging.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eDIET\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eHector’s Gobies are \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eomnivores with a herbivore-leaning diet\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e. They naturally graze on filamentous algae, film algae, biofilm, and tiny organisms found on rockwork and substrate. In aquariums, they should be offered a varied diet and not expected to survive only on whatever they find in the tank.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePRIMARY DIET\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFrozen Food:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Offer mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, cyclops, marine blends, and other small frozen foods. We at Summit City Coral prefer frozen foods such as \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eLRS Herbivore Frenzy\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e and \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePE Mysis\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePrepared Herbivore Foods:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e High-quality herbivore pellets, spirulina flakes, marine algae pellets, and small omnivore foods can help provide balanced nutrition.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAlgae-Based Foods:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Nori, spirulina, algae wafers, herbivore blends, and marine algae foods can be offered regularly, especially in very clean aquariums with limited natural grazing.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eNatural Grazing:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Established live rock with film algae, biofilm, and microfauna helps support natural feeding behavior. This should be viewed as supplemental, not the whole meal plan. Fish do not thrive on vibes and a few dusty patches of algae.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFEEDING FREQUENCY\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFeed small amounts \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e1-2 times per day\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e, or \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e2-3 times per day\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e for new, shy, or thinner individuals. Make sure food is small enough for the goby to eat and reaches the lower parts of the aquarium before faster tank mates inhale everything like aquatic tax collectors.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCOMPATIBILITY\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eHector’s Gobies are peaceful and work best in calm community reef aquariums. They should be housed with tank mates that will not bully, chase, or severely outcompete them for food.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCOMMON TANK MATES\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFish:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Clownfish, cardinalfish, firefish, peaceful gobies, blennies, small peaceful wrasses, chromis, dwarf angelfish, and other calm community reef fish.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAvoid:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Aggressive damsels, aggressive dottybacks, large predatory fish, aggressive wrasses, triggers, groupers, lionfish, and any fish likely to bully or eat them.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSame Species:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e May be kept singly or possibly as a pair in a suitable aquarium. Avoid crowding multiple similar gobies in small tanks unless there is enough territory, food, and hiding space.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eInvertebrates:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Safe with cleaner shrimp, hermit crabs, snails, urchins, and most common reef invertebrates.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCoral:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Hector’s Gobies are considered \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ereef-safe\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e and should not bother soft corals, LPS, SPS, zoanthids, mushrooms, clams, or anemones. They may occasionally stir a small amount of sand while foraging, but they are usually not major sand-moving disasters like some larger sleeper gobies.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eBEHAVIORAL NOTES\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTemperament:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Peaceful overall and usually calm with other reef fish.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eGrazing Behavior:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Picks at algae, biofilm, and tiny foods on rockwork and substrate throughout the day.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSand Foraging:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e May sift or pick through sand lightly while feeding. Usually less disruptive than larger sand-sifting gobies.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eHovering Behavior:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Often hovers close to the substrate or rockwork rather than perching heavily or swimming constantly in open water.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eReef Compatibility:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Excellent for reef aquariums. Generally ignores corals and invertebrates.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAlgae Control:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Can help with light filamentous algae grazing, but should not be expected to solve a major algae outbreak alone. That is a nutrient issue, not a goby staffing shortage.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFeeding Risk:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Very clean tanks may not provide enough natural grazing. Offer regular prepared, frozen, and algae-based foods.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTaxonomy Note:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Hector’s Goby is commonly listed as \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan\u003eKoumansetta hectori\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cspan\u003e, though older names such as \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAmblygobius hectori\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cspan\u003e may still appear in the aquarium trade.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eJumping:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e A tight-fitting lid is recommended. Small gobies can and will make catastrophic little launch decisions.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eACCLIMATION PROCESS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThis acclimation method helps reduce stress by gradually introducing the fish to your aquarium’s temperature and water chemistry.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e1. TURN OFF THE LIGHTS \u0026amp; ATO\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTurn off aquarium lights to reduce stress. If you have an Auto Top Off system, switch it off before starting acclimation.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e2. FLOAT THE BAG\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFloat the sealed bag in the aquarium for \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e15-20 minutes\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e to allow the temperature in the bag to equalize with the tank.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e3. OPEN BAG, ADD FISH TO CONTAINER\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCarefully open the bag and transfer the fish and shipping water into a clean bucket or container.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e4. ACCLIMATE USING TANK WATER\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAdd \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e1\/4 cup of tank water\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e to the container every \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e5 minutes for 40 minutes\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e5. TRANSFER FISH TO AQUARIUM\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eOnce acclimation is complete, gently transfer the fish into the aquarium using a net or specimen container. Discard the shipping water. Do not pour shipping water into your aquarium.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e6. REFILL THE AQUARIUM WITH SALTWATER\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eYou may need to replace the saltwater removed during acclimation with fresh mixed saltwater.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Summit City Coral","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":47036096971035,"sku":null,"price":25.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0246\/5100\/5999\/files\/IMG_0578.jpg?v=1778184962"},{"product_id":"scooter-blenny","title":"Scooter Blenny","description":"\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eQUICK STATS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCare Level:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Moderate\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eDiet:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Carnivore \/ Microfauna Feeder\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTemperament:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Peaceful\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eReef-Safe:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Yes\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eVenomous\/Toxic:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e No\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eApproximate Purchase Size:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 1.5-3\"\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eApproximate Max Size:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Around 3.5-5\"\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eRecommended Tank Size:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 30-55 Gallons or Larger\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSCOOTER BLENNY\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThe \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eScooter Blenny\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e (\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSynchiropus ocellatus\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \/ \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan\u003eNeosynchiropus ocellatus\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cspan\u003e), also known as the \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eScooter Dragonet\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e or \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eOcellated Dragonet\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e, is a peaceful bottom-dwelling reef fish known for its large head, mottled body pattern, oversized pectoral fins, and unique scooting movement across the sand and rockwork. Despite the common name, this fish is not a true blenny. It is a dragonet, because apparently common names were designed by someone who enjoyed making aquarists suffer.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eScooter Blennies are fascinating fish that spend much of the day picking at live rock, sand, and substrate surfaces in search of tiny foods. They move with a hopping or scooting motion and often pause to inspect the tank like a tiny aquatic detective with terrible posture.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThis species is considered \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ereef-safe\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e and should not bother corals or most invertebrates. However, it does require special attention to diet. Scooter Blennies do best in mature aquariums with established copepod populations and frequent access to small meaty foods. They are not algae-eating blennies and should not be purchased as algae control. That would be like hiring a librarian to fix your plumbing. Admirable confidence, wrong profession.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eNote:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Image is a representation of what to expect. The fish you receive may vary slightly in size, color, markings, pattern, fin shape, and overall appearance.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAQUARIUM REQUIREMENTS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAQUARIUM SIZE\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eA minimum tank size of \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e30 gallons or larger\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e may work for a Scooter Blenny if the aquarium is mature, peaceful, and supplemented with small foods or copepods. However, \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e55 gallons or larger\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e is preferred for better long-term success, especially if the fish is not reliably eating prepared foods.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTank maturity and food availability matter more than just gallon size. A small sterile tank with no pod population is not a suitable setup, even if the fish technically fits inside it. Fish care, tragically, still involves more than spatial geometry.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eHABITAT RECOMMENDATIONS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eScooter Blennies do best in mature aquariums with live rock, soft substrate, peaceful tank mates, and a steady supply of tiny foods.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAquascaping:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Provide live rock, caves, ledges, and open areas along the sandbed. Scooter Blennies spend much of their time moving along the bottom and picking at surfaces for food.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSubstrate:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Fine sand or soft aragonite is recommended. This species often forages across the sandbed and lower rockwork, so avoid sharp or overly coarse substrate.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eRockwork:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Live rock is strongly recommended. It provides shelter, biological filtration, and natural hunting surfaces for copepods, amphipods, and other tiny foods.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTank Maturity:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e A mature aquarium is strongly preferred. Established rockwork and substrate help support natural microfauna populations. New or overly sterile systems are risky unless the fish is already trained onto frozen or prepared foods and supplemental feeding is consistent.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eRefugium \/ Pod Support:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e A refugium, pod-safe rockwork, or regular copepod supplementation can greatly improve long-term success, especially in tanks with other pod-eating fish.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTank Cover:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e A tight-fitting lid is recommended. Dragonets are not the most famous jumpers, but startled fish continue to make vertical mistakes with shocking commitment.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWATER PARAMETERS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eScooter Blennies are generally hardy once established, but they still need clean, stable marine conditions. “Dragonet” does not mean “immune to water-quality nonsense,” despite the hobby’s long-running attempt to solve husbandry with hope.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTemperature:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 72-78°F\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003epH Level:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 8.1-8.4\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSalinity:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 1.020-1.026 specific gravity\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAmmonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Ammonia and nitrite should remain undetectable. Nitrate should be kept as low as reasonably possible, ideally below 20 ppm.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWater Flow:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Low to moderate flow is ideal near the sandbed and rockwork. Provide enough movement to keep the aquarium oxygenated and move waste toward filtration, while still allowing calmer areas for foraging and resting.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eDIET\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eScooter Blennies are \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ecarnivorous microfauna feeders\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e that naturally eat copepods, amphipods, tiny worms, small crustaceans, and other small meaty foods found on rock and substrate surfaces. Their diet is the most important part of their care.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePRIMARY DIET\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFrozen Food:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Offer enriched brine shrimp, cyclops, calanus, finely chopped mysis shrimp, small marine blends, and other tiny frozen foods. We at Summit City Coral prefer frozen foods such as \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eLRS Reef Frenzy\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e and \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePE Mysis\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e, chopped or broken down as needed for smaller dragonets.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePrepared Foods:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Some individuals may learn to accept very small pellets or prepared carnivore foods, but this should not be assumed. Always confirm the fish is eating before relying on prepared foods.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eLive Foods:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Copepods, amphipods, live baby brine shrimp, and other tiny live foods are excellent options and may be essential for newly introduced or picky individuals.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eNatural Foraging:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Mature live rock and substrate with an established pod population help support natural feeding behavior. This should be viewed as a major part of their care, not a decorative bonus. A dragonet without pods is basically a customer browsing an empty buffet.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFEEDING FREQUENCY\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFeed small amounts \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e2-3 times per day\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e if the fish is accepting frozen or prepared foods. In aquariums with limited pod populations, regular supplemental feeding is important. Watch body condition closely, especially around the belly and back. A thin Scooter Blenny should be addressed quickly with more frequent feeding, live foods, or pod supplementation.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCOMPATIBILITY\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eScooter Blennies are peaceful and work best in calm reef aquariums with tank mates that will not bully them or outcompete them aggressively for food.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCOMMON TANK MATES\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFish:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Clownfish, cardinalfish, peaceful gobies, blennies, firefish, peaceful wrasses, chromis, dwarf angelfish, and other calm community reef fish.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAvoid:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Aggressive damsels, aggressive dottybacks, large predatory fish, triggers, groupers, lionfish, hawkfish large enough to eat them, and any fish likely to bully or swallow them.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePod Competition:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Use caution with mandarins, other dragonets, pod-eating wrasses, and other fish that heavily compete for copepods in smaller or newer aquariums.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSame Species:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Males may fight with other males. Pairs may work in larger, mature aquariums if food availability is strong and aggression is monitored.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eInvertebrates:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Safe with cleaner shrimp, hermit crabs, snails, urchins, and most common reef invertebrates.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCoral:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Scooter Blennies are considered \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ereef-safe\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e and should not bother soft corals, LPS, SPS, zoanthids, mushrooms, clams, or anemones. They may perch or scoot near corals, but they do not usually damage them.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eBEHAVIORAL NOTES\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTemperament:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Peaceful overall and usually calm with other reef fish.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eNot a True Blenny:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Despite the common name, the Scooter Blenny is a dragonet. Its care is closer to mandarins than algae-eating blennies.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eForaging Behavior:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Spends much of the day picking at rockwork, sand, and substrate surfaces in search of tiny foods.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eScooting Movement:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Moves with a distinctive hopping or scooting motion using its fins, which is where the common name comes from.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eReef Compatibility:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Excellent for reef aquariums. They generally ignore corals and invertebrates.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFeeding Risk:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e The biggest risk is starvation in tanks without enough microfauna or supplemental feeding. A fish can be “reef-safe” and still slowly starve while everyone admires how cute it is. The hobby is charming like that.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eBody Condition:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Watch for a pinched belly, thin back, or reduced activity. These can be signs the fish is not getting enough food.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTank Maturity:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Best added to established aquariums with live rock, pods, and peaceful tank mates.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMale Behavior:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Males may display larger dorsal fins and can be territorial with other males.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eJumping:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e A tight-fitting lid is recommended. They are not as jump-prone as firefish or fairy wrasses, but fish remain committed to proving lids matter.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eACCLIMATION PROCESS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThis acclimation method helps reduce stress by gradually introducing the fish to your aquarium’s temperature and water chemistry.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e1. TURN OFF THE LIGHTS \u0026amp; ATO\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTurn off aquarium lights to reduce stress. If you have an Auto Top Off system, switch it off before starting acclimation.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e2. FLOAT THE BAG\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFloat the sealed bag in the aquarium for \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e15-20 minutes\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e to allow the temperature in the bag to equalize with the tank.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e3. OPEN BAG, ADD FISH TO CONTAINER\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCarefully open the bag and transfer the fish and shipping water into a clean bucket or container.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e4. ACCLIMATE USING TANK WATER\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAdd \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e1\/4 cup of tank water\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e to the container every \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e5 minutes for 40 minutes\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e5. TRANSFER FISH TO AQUARIUM\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eOnce acclimation is complete, gently transfer the fish into the aquarium using a net or specimen container. Discard the shipping water. Do not pour shipping water into your aquarium.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e6. REFILL THE AQUARIUM WITH SALTWATER\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eYou may need to replace the saltwater removed during acclimation with fresh mixed saltwater.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Summit City Coral","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":49945102713115,"sku":"","price":24.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0246\/5100\/5999\/files\/IMG_7677.jpg?v=1738860066"},{"product_id":"pajama-cardinal","title":"Pajama Cardinalfish","description":"\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eQUICK STATS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCare Level:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Easy\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eDiet:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Carnivore\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTemperament:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Peaceful\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eReef-Safe:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Yes\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eVenomous\/Toxic:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e No\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eApproximate Purchase Size:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 1-2\"\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eApproximate Max Size:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Around 3-3.5\"\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eRecommended Tank Size:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 20-30 Gallons or Larger\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePAJAMA CARDINALFISH\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThe \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePajama Cardinalfish\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e (\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSphaeramia nematoptera\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cspan\u003e), also known as the \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSpotted Cardinalfish\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e, is a peaceful reef-safe fish known for its unusual pattern, calm behavior, and beginner-friendly care. It has a yellow-green face, silver body, bold dark mid-body band, and reddish-orange spots toward the rear. It looks like three different fish were assembled during a power outage, and somehow it works.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePajama Cardinalfish are excellent choices for peaceful reef aquariums because they stay relatively small, are generally hardy, and do not require aggressive feeding competition to thrive. They often hover calmly in the water column, especially around rockwork, caves, or shaded areas. In other words, they bring movement without acting like they are late to a very important fish meeting.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThis species is considered \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ereef-safe\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e and should not bother corals or most invertebrates. It can be kept singly, in pairs, or in small groups in larger aquariums. Groups may establish a loose hierarchy, but they are usually much calmer than many other community fish, which is apparently what passes for emotional maturity underwater.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eNote:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Image is a representation of what to expect. The fish you receive may vary slightly in size, color, markings, spot pattern, and overall appearance.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAQUARIUM REQUIREMENTS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAQUARIUM SIZE\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eA minimum tank size of \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e20 gallons or larger\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e can work for a single Pajama Cardinalfish, though \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e30 gallons or larger\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e is preferred for better stability, more room for tank mates, and small group housing.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFor groups, a larger aquarium is recommended. Pajama Cardinalfish are not hyperactive swimmers, but they do appreciate room to spread out, hover, and retreat into shelter when needed.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eHABITAT RECOMMENDATIONS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePajama Cardinalfish do best in established aquariums with live rock, peaceful tank mates, and areas of shelter.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAquascaping:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Provide live rock, caves, overhangs, and shaded areas. Pajama Cardinalfish often hover near shelter and may retreat into rockwork when startled.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSubstrate:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Sand, fine aragonite, crushed coral, or bare-bottom systems can all work. This species does not rely heavily on the substrate.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eRockwork:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Live rock is strongly recommended. It provides shelter, biological filtration, and structure for natural hovering behavior.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTank Maturity:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e A mature aquarium is preferred. Stable water quality and an established feeding routine help this peaceful fish settle in and maintain good body condition.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTank Cover:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e A tight-fitting lid is recommended. Cardinalfish are not the most dramatic jumpers, but fish as a category remain committed to making bad vertical decisions.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWATER PARAMETERS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePajama Cardinalfish are hardy once established, but they still need clean, stable marine conditions. “Beginner-friendly” does not mean “compatible with whatever chemistry tragedy is happening this week.”\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTemperature:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 72-80°F\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003epH Level:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 8.1-8.4\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSalinity:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 1.020-1.026 specific gravity\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAmmonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Ammonia and nitrite should remain undetectable. Nitrate should be kept as low as reasonably possible, ideally below 20 ppm.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWater Flow:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Low to moderate flow is ideal. Provide enough movement to keep the aquarium oxygenated and move waste toward filtration, while still allowing calmer hovering areas near rockwork.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eDIET\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePajama Cardinalfish are \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ecarnivores\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e that should be offered a varied diet of small meaty marine foods. They are usually not difficult to feed once settled and often accept frozen and prepared foods readily.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePRIMARY DIET\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFrozen Food:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Offer mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, cyclops, marine blends, finely chopped seafood, and other small frozen foods. We at Summit City Coral prefer frozen foods such as \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eLRS Reef Frenzy\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e and \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePE Mysis\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePrepared Foods:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e High-quality small marine pellets, flakes, and prepared carnivore foods can help provide balanced nutrition once the fish is eating reliably. Smaller food sizes are best.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eLive Foods:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Copepods, amphipods, live brine shrimp, and other small live foods can help encourage feeding, especially in newly introduced or shy individuals.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSmall Meaty Foods:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Finely chopped clam, shrimp, squid, and other marine foods can be offered occasionally for variety. Avoid oversized foods unless you enjoy watching a cardinalfish stare at dinner like it has been assigned homework.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFEEDING FREQUENCY\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFeed small amounts \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e1-2 times per day\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e. In community tanks, make sure food reaches the Pajama Cardinalfish before faster tank mates inhale everything like aquatic debt collectors.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCOMPATIBILITY\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePajama Cardinalfish are peaceful and work well in calm community reef aquariums. They are best housed with tank mates that will not bully, chase, or severely outcompete them for food.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCOMMON TANK MATES\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFish:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Clownfish, gobies, blennies, firefish, peaceful wrasses, chromis, dwarf angelfish, anthias, tangs in larger aquariums, and other peaceful to semi-peaceful reef fish.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAvoid:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Large predatory fish, aggressive dottybacks, overly aggressive damsels, triggers, groupers, lionfish, hawkfish large enough to eat them, and any fish likely to harass or swallow them.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSame Species:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Can be kept singly, as a pair, or in small groups in larger aquariums. Groups may establish a hierarchy, so provide enough space and shelter.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eInvertebrates:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Usually safe with cleaner shrimp, hermit crabs, snails, urchins, and most common reef invertebrates. Very tiny shrimp or small crustaceans may be at risk, because small meaty snacks do not get legal protection in reef tanks.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCoral:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Pajama Cardinalfish are considered \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ereef-safe\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e and should not bother soft corals, LPS, SPS, zoanthids, mushrooms, clams, or anemones.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eBEHAVIORAL NOTES\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTemperament:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Peaceful and calm. Usually an excellent choice for community reef aquariums.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eActivity Level:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Moderate to low. Often hovers calmly near rockwork rather than swimming constantly throughout the tank.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eGroup Behavior:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Can be kept in small groups in larger aquariums. They may form a loose hierarchy but are generally less aggressive than many other group fish.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eNocturnal Tendency:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e May become more active during lower-light periods, especially when first introduced.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eReef Compatibility:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Excellent for reef tanks. They generally ignore corals and most invertebrates.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMouthbrooding:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Pajama Cardinalfish are mouthbrooders, with males carrying eggs in the mouth after spawning. Nature apparently decided parenting should include not eating for a while, which feels dramatic but effective.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFeeding Behavior:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Usually accepts frozen and prepared foods once settled. Shy individuals may need food offered near their preferred hovering area.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePattern Variation:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Spotting, body band intensity, and coloration may vary slightly between individuals.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eJumping:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e A tight-fitting lid is recommended. They are not the worst jumpers, but the floor remains undefeated.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eACCLIMATION PROCESS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThis acclimation method helps reduce stress by gradually introducing the fish to your aquarium’s temperature and water chemistry.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e1. TURN OFF THE LIGHTS \u0026amp; ATO\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTurn off aquarium lights to reduce stress. If you have an Auto Top Off system, switch it off before starting acclimation.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e2. FLOAT THE BAG\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFloat the sealed bag in the aquarium for \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e15-20 minutes\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e to allow the temperature in the bag to equalize with the tank.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e3. OPEN BAG, ADD FISH TO CONTAINER\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCarefully open the bag and transfer the fish and shipping water into a clean bucket or container.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e4. ACCLIMATE USING TANK WATER\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAdd \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e1\/4 cup of tank water\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e to the container every \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e5 minutes for 40 minutes\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e5. TRANSFER FISH TO AQUARIUM\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eOnce acclimation is complete, gently transfer the fish into the aquarium using a net or specimen container. Discard the shipping water. Do not pour shipping water into your aquarium.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e6. REFILL THE AQUARIUM WITH SALTWATER\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eYou may need to replace the saltwater removed during acclimation with fresh mixed saltwater.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Summit City Coral","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":47036097036571,"sku":null,"price":20.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0246\/5100\/5999\/files\/IMG_7891.jpg?v=1781025336"},{"product_id":"orange-firefish","title":"Orange Firefish Goby","description":"\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eQUICK STATS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCare Level:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Easy\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eDiet:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Carnivore \/ Planktivore\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTemperament:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Peaceful, Shy\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eReef-Safe:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Yes\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eVenomous\/Toxic:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e No\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eApproximate Purchase Size:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 1.5-2.5\"\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eApproximate Max Size:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Around 3\"\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eRecommended Tank Size:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 20 Gallons or Larger\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eORANGE FIRE FISH GOBY\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThe \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eOrange Firefish Goby\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e (\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan\u003eNemateleotris magnifica\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cspan\u003e), also known as the \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFirefish Goby\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e, \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFire Dartfish\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e, or \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMagnificent Dartfish\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e, is a peaceful reef-safe fish known for its white to pale body, bright orange-red tail, and tall sail-like dorsal fin. It has a delicate, hovering swimming style and adds bright color without acting like the aquarium owes it tribute.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eOrange Firefish Gobies are popular because they stay small, are generally hardy, and work well in peaceful reef aquariums. They often hover just above the rockwork or sandbed, facing into the current while waiting for tiny foods to pass by. When startled, they quickly dart into a cave or burrow, because apparently subtle movement nearby means the apocalypse has begun.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThis species is considered \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ereef-safe\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e and should not bother corals or most invertebrates. It does best with calm tank mates, stable water quality, and plenty of hiding places. Firefish are peaceful, but they can become territorial toward other firefish unless kept as a bonded pair.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eNote:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Image is a representation of what to expect. The fish you receive may vary slightly in size, color, markings, fin length, and overall appearance.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAQUARIUM REQUIREMENTS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAQUARIUM SIZE\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eA minimum tank size of \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e20 gallons or larger\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e is recommended for an Orange Firefish Goby. While some individuals can do well in smaller nano aquariums, a 20-gallon or larger system provides better water stability, more swimming room, and more space for hiding areas.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFor pairs or community tanks, a larger aquarium is preferred. Firefish are peaceful, but they can be shy and easily stressed by cramped spaces or overly aggressive tank mates.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eHABITAT RECOMMENDATIONS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eOrange Firefish Gobies do best in established aquariums with live rock, open swimming space, and secure hiding places.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAquascaping:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Provide live rock, caves, crevices, overhangs, and open areas for hovering. Firefish need shelter they can retreat into quickly when startled.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSubstrate:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Sand or fine aragonite is recommended, though they do not sift sand like sleeper gobies. They may use low caves, burrow-like spaces, or rock openings for security.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eRockwork:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Live rock is strongly recommended. It provides shelter, territory, biological filtration, and natural surfaces around which the fish can hover and feed.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTank Maturity:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e A mature aquarium is preferred. Stable water quality and an established feeding routine help reduce stress and improve long-term success.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTank Cover:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e A tight-fitting lid is absolutely required. Firefish are expert jumpers, because apparently being peaceful and beautiful was not enough, so they added “reckless escape artist” to the résumé.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWATER PARAMETERS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eOrange Firefish Gobies are generally hardy once established, but they still need clean, stable marine conditions. “Easy” does not mean “compatible with water-quality crimes,” despite what the hobby keeps attempting in small tanks.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTemperature:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 72-80°F\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003epH Level:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 8.1-8.4\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSalinity:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 1.020-1.026 specific gravity\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAmmonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Ammonia and nitrite should remain undetectable. Nitrate should be kept as low as reasonably possible, ideally below 20 ppm.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWater Flow:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Low to moderate flow is ideal. Provide enough water movement to keep the aquarium oxygenated and move food through the water column, while still allowing calmer areas near rockwork for resting and hovering.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eDIET\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eOrange Firefish Gobies are \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ecarnivorous planktivores\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e that naturally feed on small drifting foods such as zooplankton, copepods, and tiny crustaceans. In aquariums, they should be offered small meaty foods that are easy to catch from the water column.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePRIMARY DIET\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFrozen Food:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Offer mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, cyclops, marine blends, and other appropriately sized frozen foods. We at Summit City Coral prefer frozen foods such as \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eLRS Reef Frenzy\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e and \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePE Mysis\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePrepared Foods:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e High-quality small marine pellets, flakes, and prepared carnivore or omnivore foods can help provide a balanced diet once the fish is eating reliably. Smaller pellet sizes are best.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eLive Foods:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Copepods, amphipods, live brine shrimp, and other small live foods can help encourage feeding, especially in newly introduced or shy individuals.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSmall Meaty Foods:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Finely chopped marine foods and plankton-sized foods can help support natural feeding behavior. Avoid overly large foods unless you enjoy watching a tiny dartfish reconsider the geometry of dinner.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFEEDING FREQUENCY\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFeed small amounts \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e1-2 times per day\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e, or \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e2-3 times per day\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e for new, shy, or thinner individuals. In community tanks, make sure food reaches the Firefish before faster tank mates inhale everything like aquatic tax collectors.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCOMPATIBILITY\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eOrange Firefish Gobies are peaceful and work best in calm community reef aquariums. They should not be housed with aggressive or overly boisterous tank mates that may chase, intimidate, or outcompete them.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCOMMON TANK MATES\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFish:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Clownfish, cardinalfish, peaceful gobies, blennies, small peaceful wrasses, chromis, dwarf angelfish, and other calm community reef fish.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAvoid:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Aggressive damsels, aggressive dottybacks, large predatory fish, aggressive wrasses, triggers, groupers, lionfish, hawkfish large enough to eat them, and any fish likely to bully or swallow them.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSame Species:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Best kept singly unless kept as a bonded pair. Multiple Firefish may fight or chase each other in smaller aquariums.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eInvertebrates:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Safe with cleaner shrimp, hermit crabs, snails, urchins, and most common reef invertebrates.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCoral:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Orange Firefish Gobies are considered \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ereef-safe\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e and should not bother soft corals, LPS, SPS, zoanthids, mushrooms, clams, or anemones.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eBEHAVIORAL NOTES\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTemperament:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Peaceful and shy. Best kept with calm tank mates.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eHovering Behavior:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Often hovers above the sandbed or near rockwork while facing into the current and waiting for small foods.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eStartle Response:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Quickly darts into rockwork or hiding places when frightened. This is normal behavior, not the fish being dramatic, although admittedly it is very good at that.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eReef Compatibility:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Excellent for reef aquariums. They generally ignore corals and invertebrates.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePairing:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Can sometimes be kept as a bonded pair. Avoid mixing multiple individuals randomly in smaller tanks due to possible aggression.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFeeding Risk:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Shy individuals can be outcompeted by faster or more aggressive feeders. Watch body condition and make sure they are getting enough food.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eDorsal Fin Display:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e The tall dorsal fin may be raised or flicked as the fish hovers, adding to its dartfish appearance.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eJumping:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e A tight-fitting lid is mandatory. Firefish are notorious jumpers and can launch through surprisingly small gaps, because apparently evolution forgot to include respect for flooring.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eACCLIMATION PROCESS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThis acclimation method helps reduce stress by gradually introducing the fish to your aquarium’s temperature and water chemistry.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e1. TURN OFF THE LIGHTS \u0026amp; ATO\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTurn off aquarium lights to reduce stress. If you have an Auto Top Off system, switch it off before starting acclimation.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e2. FLOAT THE BAG\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFloat the sealed bag in the aquarium for \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e15-20 minutes\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e to allow the temperature in the bag to equalize with the tank.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e3. OPEN BAG, ADD FISH TO CONTAINER\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCarefully open the bag and transfer the fish and shipping water into a clean bucket or container.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e4. ACCLIMATE USING TANK WATER\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAdd \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e1\/4 cup of tank water\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e to the container every \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e5 minutes for 40 minutes\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e5. TRANSFER FISH TO AQUARIUM\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eOnce acclimation is complete, gently transfer the fish into the aquarium using a net or specimen container. Discard the shipping water. Do not pour shipping water into your aquarium.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e6. REFILL THE AQUARIUM WITH SALTWATER\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eYou may need to replace the saltwater removed during acclimation with fresh mixed saltwater.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Summit City Coral","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":47036097102107,"sku":"orangefirefishgoby","price":18.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0246\/5100\/5999\/files\/538D4D01-7257-407D-8E2B-7ACA597FF3BA.jpg?v=1710614104"},{"product_id":"yellow-watchman-goby","title":"Yellow Watchman Goby","description":"\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eQUICK STATS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCare Level:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Easy\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eDiet:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Carnivore\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTemperament:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Peaceful, Territorial With Similar Gobies\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eReef-Safe:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Yes\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eVenomous\/Toxic:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e No\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eApproximate Purchase Size:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 1-3\"\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eApproximate Max Size:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Around 4\"\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eRecommended Tank Size:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 20-30 Gallons or Larger\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eYELLOW WATCHMAN GOBY\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThe \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eYellow Watchman Goby\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e (\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCryptocentrus cinctus\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cspan\u003e), also known as the \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eYellow Prawn Goby\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e or \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eYellow Shrimp Goby\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e, is a hardy bottom-dwelling reef fish known for its bright yellow coloration, bold personality, large watchful eyes, and burrow-guarding behavior. Some individuals may appear more golden yellow, pale yellow, tan, grayish, or even brown depending on stress, age, collection location, and mood. Apparently even gobies come with alternate color modes now.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eYellow Watchman Gobies are popular because they are hardy, reef-safe, relatively easy to feed, and full of personality. They spend much of their time perched near a burrow entrance, watching the aquarium with the expression of a tiny grumpy security guard who has seen enough.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThis species may pair with compatible pistol shrimp, especially species in the \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAlpheus\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cspan\u003e genus such as tiger pistol shrimp or candy cane pistol shrimp. When paired, the shrimp maintains the burrow while the goby watches for danger. It is one of the most entertaining partnerships in reef aquariums, mostly because the shrimp does all the construction work while the goby stands there looking important. Nature, apparently, invented middle management.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eYellow Watchman Gobies are considered \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ereef-safe\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e and should not bother corals or most invertebrates. They may move sand or rubble around their burrow, so low-placed frags should be secured. Reef-safe does not always mean aquascape-safe, because gobies have tiny excavation opinions.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eNote:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Image is a representation of what to expect. The fish you receive may vary slightly in size, color, pattern, markings, and overall appearance.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAQUARIUM REQUIREMENTS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAQUARIUM SIZE\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eA minimum tank size of \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e20 gallons or larger\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e can work for a single Yellow Watchman Goby, though \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e30 gallons or larger\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e is preferred for better stability, more bottom space, and community tank setups.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThe aquarium footprint matters more than height because this fish spends most of its time near the bottom. A wider aquarium with sand, rockwork, and usable territory is more helpful than a tall narrow tank full of vertical water the goby has no intention of appreciating.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eHABITAT RECOMMENDATIONS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eYellow Watchman Gobies do best in established aquariums with live rock, sandy substrate, stable rockwork, rubble, and secure hiding places.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAquascaping:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Provide live rock, caves, ledges, and open sandbed areas. Rockwork should be stable and placed securely, not balanced loosely on sand. Gobies and pistol shrimp can dig around rock bases, and gravity remains deeply committed to ruining everyone’s day.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSubstrate:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Fine sand or soft aragonite is recommended. A mix of sand and small rubble pieces can help the goby or pistol shrimp build and reinforce burrows.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eRockwork:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Live rock is strongly recommended. It provides shelter, biological filtration, territory, and structure around burrow entrances.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePistol Shrimp Pairing:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Yellow Watchman Gobies may pair with compatible pistol shrimp, especially species in the \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAlpheus\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cspan\u003e genus. Pairing is not guaranteed, but when it happens, it creates a fascinating burrow-sharing relationship where the shrimp digs and the goby acts like a tiny suspicious security camera.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTank Maturity:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e A mature aquarium is preferred. Stable biological filtration and consistent water quality help this burrow-dwelling fish settle in and feed reliably.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTank Cover:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e A tight-fitting lid is strongly recommended. Yellow Watchman Gobies can jump when startled, because apparently the emergency exit is always upward.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWATER PARAMETERS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eYellow Watchman Gobies are generally hardy once established, but they still need clean, stable marine conditions. “Easy goby” does not mean “compatible with mystery water,” though the hobby does enjoy trying that tragic little experiment.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTemperature:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 72-78°F\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003epH Level:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 8.1-8.4\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSalinity:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 1.020-1.026 specific gravity\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAmmonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Ammonia and nitrite should remain undetectable. Nitrate should be kept as low as reasonably possible, ideally below 20 ppm.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWater Flow:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Low to moderate flow is ideal near the sandbed. Provide enough movement to keep the aquarium oxygenated and move waste toward filtration, while still allowing calmer areas near the goby’s burrow.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eDIET\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eYellow Watchman Gobies are \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ecarnivores\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e that should be offered a varied diet of small meaty marine foods. They usually adapt well to frozen and prepared foods once settled, especially if food reaches the bottom of the aquarium near their burrow.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePRIMARY DIET\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFrozen Food:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Offer mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, cyclops, calanus, chopped clam, marine blends, and other small meaty frozen foods. We at Summit City Coral prefer frozen foods such as \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eLRS Reef Frenzy\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e and \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePE Mysis\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePrepared Foods:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e High-quality sinking pellets, carnivore pellets, and small marine pellets can help provide balanced nutrition. Sinking foods are especially useful because this fish spends most of its time near the bottom.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eLive Foods:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Copepods, amphipods, live brine shrimp, blackworms, and other small live foods can help encourage feeding, especially in newly introduced or shy individuals.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSmall Meaty Foods:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Finely chopped seafood and small crustacean-based foods can be offered in rotation. Avoid oversized foods unless you enjoy watching a goby stare at dinner like it was handed a legal document.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFEEDING FREQUENCY\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFeed small amounts \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e1-2 times per day\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e, or \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e2-3 times per day\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e for new or shy individuals. Make sure food reaches the goby near its burrow or bottom territory, especially in tanks with faster fish that treat feeding time like a competitive sport no one asked for.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCOMPATIBILITY\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eYellow Watchman Gobies are peaceful with most community fish and work well in reef aquariums. They may defend their burrow from similar gobies, especially in smaller tanks.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCOMMON TANK MATES\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFish:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Clownfish, cardinalfish, firefish, blennies, peaceful wrasses, chromis, dwarf angelfish, tangs in larger aquariums, and other peaceful to semi-peaceful reef fish.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAvoid:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Large predatory fish, aggressive dottybacks, aggressive damsels, triggers, groupers, lionfish, hawkfish large enough to eat them, and any fish likely to bully or swallow them.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSimilar Gobies:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Use caution with other shrimp gobies, watchman gobies, or similar bottom-dwelling species unless the aquarium is large enough to provide separate territories.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSame Species:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Best kept singly unless keeping a bonded pair. Like many gobies, they may fight with their own kind if not paired, because apparently even small fish need property disputes.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePistol Shrimp:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e May pair with compatible pistol shrimp. Pairing is not guaranteed, but it is one of the main behavioral appeals of this species.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eInvertebrates:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Usually safe with cleaner shrimp, hermit crabs, snails, urchins, and most common reef invertebrates. Very tiny ornamental shrimp or crustaceans may be at some risk from larger individuals, but this species is not usually a major invertebrate threat.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCoral:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Yellow Watchman Gobies are considered \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ereef-safe\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e and should not bother soft corals, LPS, SPS, zoanthids, mushrooms, clams, or anemones. They may move sand near low-placed frags because apparently substrate must be redistributed by committee.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eBEHAVIORAL NOTES\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTemperament:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Peaceful overall, but may become territorial around its burrow.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eBurrowing Behavior:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Often uses a burrow under rockwork or near rubble. Provide stable rockwork and suitable substrate.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePistol Shrimp Relationship:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e May form a symbiotic pair with compatible pistol shrimp. The shrimp digs and maintains the burrow while the goby watches for danger like a tiny yellow security guard.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePerching Behavior:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Frequently sits at the burrow entrance or on nearby sand and rockwork, watching the aquarium carefully.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eReef Compatibility:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Excellent for reef tanks. They generally ignore corals and most invertebrates.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTerritoriality:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e May be aggressive toward similar gobies, especially other shrimp gobies or watchman gobies in smaller aquariums.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSand Movement:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e May move sand or rubble while using or maintaining a burrow. This is normal behavior, not a personal attack on your aquascape, although the visual evidence may disagree.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFeeding Behavior:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Usually accepts frozen and prepared foods once settled. Offer food near the bottom so it does not get outcompeted by faster fish.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eColoration:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Usually bright yellow to golden yellow, but individuals may also appear pale, gray, tan, brown, or mixed depending on stress, mood, maturity, and environment.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eHardiness:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Considered one of the hardier shrimp gobies and a strong choice for beginner to intermediate reef aquariums.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eJumping:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e A tight-fitting lid is strongly recommended. Yellow Watchman Gobies can dart upward when startled, because apparently panic has poor directional awareness.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eACCLIMATION PROCESS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThis acclimation method helps reduce stress by gradually introducing the fish to your aquarium’s temperature and water chemistry.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e1. TURN OFF THE LIGHTS \u0026amp; ATO\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTurn off aquarium lights to reduce stress. If you have an Auto Top Off system, switch it off before starting acclimation.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e2. FLOAT THE BAG\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFloat the sealed bag in the aquarium for \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e15-20 minutes\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e to allow the temperature in the bag to equalize with the tank.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e3. OPEN BAG, ADD FISH TO CONTAINER\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCarefully open the bag and transfer the fish and shipping water into a clean bucket or container.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e4. ACCLIMATE USING TANK WATER\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAdd \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e1\/4 cup of tank water\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e to the container every \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e5 minutes for 40 minutes\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e5. TRANSFER FISH TO AQUARIUM\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eOnce acclimation is complete, gently transfer the fish into the aquarium using a net or specimen container. Discard the shipping water. Do not pour shipping water into your aquarium.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e6. REFILL THE AQUARIUM WITH SALTWATER\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eYou may need to replace the saltwater removed during acclimation with fresh mixed saltwater.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Summit City Coral","offers":[{"title":"Fish Only","offer_id":52099620765979,"sku":null,"price":32.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"Tiger Pistol Shrimp Bundle","offer_id":52099620798747,"sku":null,"price":45.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0246\/5100\/5999\/files\/IMG_0952.jpg?v=1780959428"},{"product_id":"yellow-tang","title":"Yellow Tang","description":"\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eQUICK STATS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCare Level:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Easy to Moderate\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eDiet:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Herbivore \/ Omnivore\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTemperament:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Semi-Aggressive\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eReef-Safe:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Yes\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eVenomous\/Toxic:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e No\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eApproximate Purchase Size:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 1.25-4\"\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eApproximate Max Size:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Around 7-8\"\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eRecommended Tank Size:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 100 Gallons or Larger\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eYELLOW TANG\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThe \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eYellow Tang\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e (\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan\u003eZebrasoma flavescens\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cspan\u003e) is one of the most iconic saltwater aquarium fish, known for its bright yellow coloration, disc-shaped body, active swimming behavior, and constant algae grazing. It is instantly recognizable and brings bold movement to reef aquariums without needing the dramatic patterning of some tangs. It is just yellow. Aggressively yellow. Somehow, that was enough to become famous.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eYellow Tangs are active herbivorous grazers that spend much of the day cruising the aquarium and picking at algae on rockwork. They are generally hardy once established, but they still require strong water quality, proper nutrition, mature live rock, and enough swimming room for long-term success.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThis species is considered \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ereef-safe\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e and should not bother corals or most invertebrates when properly fed. Like other \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan\u003eZebrasoma\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cspan\u003e tangs, Yellow Tangs can become territorial toward other tangs, surgeonfish, or similarly shaped algae grazers. Beautiful, useful, and mildly convinced it owns the reef. Classic tang behavior, really.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eNote:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Image is a representation of what to expect. The fish you receive may vary slightly in size, color intensity, maturity, and overall appearance.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAQUARIUM REQUIREMENTS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAQUARIUM SIZE\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eA minimum tank size of \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e100 gallons or larger\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e is recommended for a Yellow Tang. While smaller juveniles may be raised temporarily in smaller aquariums, long-term care should be planned around adult size, swimming behavior, and territorial needs.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTank length and open swimming space are important. A long aquarium with clear swimming lanes is much better than a tall narrow tank pretending volume alone solves everything. Juvenile tangs are cute little reminders that future upgrades are expensive and biology does not care about your budget.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eHABITAT RECOMMENDATIONS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eYellow Tangs do best in mature aquariums with open swimming space, stable rockwork, strong filtration, and plenty of grazing opportunities.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAquascaping:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Provide open swimming room along with stable rock structures for grazing, shelter, and territory. Avoid overly dense aquascapes that block long swimming paths.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSubstrate:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Sand, fine aragonite, crushed coral, or bare-bottom systems can all work. This species does not depend heavily on the substrate.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eRockwork:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Live rock is strongly recommended. It provides grazing surfaces, hiding places, territory, and biological filtration.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTank Maturity:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e A mature aquarium is preferred, especially one with natural algae and biofilm growth. Yellow Tangs benefit from regular grazing opportunities throughout the day.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTank Cover:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e A tight-fitting lid is recommended. Tangs are not the most famous jumpers, but large startled fish can still make sudden athletic mistakes with expensive consequences.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWATER PARAMETERS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eYellow Tangs are generally hardy once established, but they still need clean, stable marine conditions. “Hardy tang” does not mean “immune to bad water,” though apparently the hobby keeps trying to negotiate with chemistry.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTemperature:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 72-78°F\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003epH Level:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 8.1-8.4\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSalinity:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 1.020-1.026 specific gravity\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAmmonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Ammonia and nitrite should remain undetectable. Nitrate should be kept as low as reasonably possible, ideally below 20 ppm.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWater Flow:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Moderate to strong water movement is ideal. Provide strong oxygenation, efficient filtration, and enough flow to move waste toward filtration while still allowing comfortable swimming space.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eDIET\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eYellow Tangs are primarily \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eherbivorous grazers\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e, though they will accept a variety of omnivore foods in the aquarium. A diet rich in marine algae is important for maintaining body weight, digestion, color, and immune health.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePRIMARY DIET\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFrozen Food:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Offer algae-rich frozen foods, mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, marine blends, and other high-quality frozen foods. We at Summit City Coral prefer frozen foods such as \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eLRS Herbivore Frenzy\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e and \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePE Mysis\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePrepared Herbivore Foods:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e High-quality herbivore pellets, marine algae pellets, spirulina flakes, and omnivore blends can help provide balanced nutrition.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAlgae-Based Foods:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Nori, seaweed sheets, spirulina, algae wafers, herbivore blends, and marine algae foods should be offered regularly. Clip seaweed sheets to the glass or rockwork so the tang can graze naturally.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eNatural Grazing:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Established live rock with film algae, filamentous algae, and biofilm helps support natural feeding behavior. This should be viewed as supplemental, not the entire feeding plan. A Yellow Tang is not a free algae-control employee with a luxury paint job.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFEEDING FREQUENCY\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFeed small amounts \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e1-2 times per day\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e, with algae-based foods offered frequently. Tangs do best when they can graze throughout the day, so regular access to seaweed or algae-based foods is strongly recommended.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCOMPATIBILITY\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eYellow Tangs are semi-aggressive and can work well in large reef aquariums with appropriate tank mates. They may become territorial toward other tangs, surgeonfish, or similarly shaped algae grazers, especially once established.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCOMMON TANK MATES\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFish:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Clownfish, cardinalfish, wrasses, gobies, blennies, rabbitfish, foxfaces, dwarf angelfish, larger peaceful fish, and other community reef fish.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAvoid:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Other tangs or surgeonfish in smaller aquariums unless the tank is large enough and introductions are carefully managed. Avoid overly aggressive fish that may constantly harass the tang, as well as very timid fish that may be outcompeted.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eOther Tangs:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Use caution when mixing with other tangs. Yellow Tangs may show aggression toward other surgeonfish, especially other \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan\u003eZebrasoma\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cspan\u003e tangs or similarly shaped algae grazers. Larger aquariums, careful introduction, and plenty of territory help reduce conflict.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSame Species:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Multiple Yellow Tangs may fight unless introduced carefully into a large aquarium with enough space and structure. Groups are possible in very large systems, but this is not something to casually attempt in a standard reef tank unless you enjoy turning the aquarium into a yellow courtroom.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eInvertebrates:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Usually safe with cleaner shrimp, hermit crabs, snails, urchins, and common cleanup crew animals.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCoral:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Yellow Tangs are considered \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ereef-safe\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e and should not bother soft corals, LPS, SPS, zoanthids, mushrooms, clams, or anemones when well-fed. Like many herbivores, underfed individuals may become more likely to investigate surfaces they should leave alone, because hunger remains a terrible consultant.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eBEHAVIORAL NOTES\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTemperament:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Semi-aggressive. Usually manageable in properly sized aquariums, but may become territorial once established.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAlgae Grazing:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Strong grazer for film algae, filamentous algae, and soft algae growth. Still requires regular feeding and should not be used as the entire algae-control plan.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eReef Compatibility:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Excellent for reef tanks when properly fed. They generally ignore corals and most invertebrates.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSwimming Style:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Active swimmer that needs open swimming paths and should not be cramped into undersized aquariums.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTang Scalpel:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Like other surgeonfish, Yellow Tangs have a sharp scalpel-like spine near the tail used for defense. Use caution when catching, transferring, or working around the fish. It is not venomous, just equipped with a tiny biological box cutter, because fish apparently needed hardware.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTerritoriality:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e May show aggression toward other tangs or similarly shaped fish, especially after becoming established.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eColoration:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Typically bright yellow throughout the body and fins. Color intensity may vary depending on stress, diet, maturity, lighting, and overall health.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCaptive-Bred Availability:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Captive-bred Yellow Tangs are available and may adapt especially well to aquarium life, prepared foods, and shipping compared with larger wild-caught specimens.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eHardiness:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Often considered a hardy tang once settled, but still requires stable water quality, strong nutrition, and enough swimming room.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eDisease Susceptibility:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Like many tangs, Yellow Tangs can be prone to external parasites and HLLE-related issues when stressed or poorly nourished. Quarantine, observation, strong nutrition, and stable water quality are strongly recommended.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTank Size Reality:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e This is an active surgeonfish that should be planned around adult size and swimming behavior, not purchase size. Buying a tiny captive-bred juvenile and pretending it will stay tiny is denial in a fish bag.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eJumping:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e A tight-fitting lid is recommended. Large fish can still make sudden, athletic mistakes.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eACCLIMATION PROCESS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThis acclimation method helps reduce stress by gradually introducing the fish to your aquarium’s temperature and water chemistry.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e1. TURN OFF THE LIGHTS \u0026amp; ATO\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTurn off aquarium lights to reduce stress. If you have an Auto Top Off system, switch it off before starting acclimation.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e2. FLOAT THE BAG\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFloat the sealed bag in the aquarium for \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e15-20 minutes\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e to allow the temperature in the bag to equalize with the tank.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e3. OPEN BAG, ADD FISH TO CONTAINER\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCarefully open the bag and transfer the fish and shipping water into a clean bucket or container.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e4. ACCLIMATE USING TANK WATER\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAdd \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e1\/4 cup of tank water\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e to the container every \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e5 minutes for 40 minutes\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e5. TRANSFER FISH TO AQUARIUM\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eOnce acclimation is complete, gently transfer the fish into the aquarium using a net or specimen container. Use caution near the tail spine when handling tangs. Discard the shipping water. Do not pour shipping water into your aquarium.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e6. REFILL THE AQUARIUM WITH SALTWATER\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eYou may need to replace the saltwater removed during acclimation with fresh mixed saltwater.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Summit City Coral","offers":[{"title":"Aquacultured","offer_id":52312981831963,"sku":null,"price":240.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0246\/5100\/5999\/files\/B083922F-04F8-4064-8B34-D2EAF6E72BF8.jpg?v=1748381856"},{"product_id":"bicolor-blenny","title":"Bicolor Blenny","description":"\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eQUICK STATS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCare Level:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Easy to Moderate\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eDiet:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Omnivore \/ Herbivore-Leaning\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTemperament:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Peaceful to Mildly Territorial\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eReef-Safe:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Yes, With Caution\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eVenomous\/Toxic:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e No\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eApproximate Purchase Size:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 1.5-3\"\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eApproximate Max Size:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Around 4\"\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eRecommended Tank Size:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 30 Gallons or Larger\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eBICOLOR BLENNY\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThe \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eBicolor Blenny\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e (\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan\u003eEcsenius bicolor\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cspan\u003e) is a popular saltwater aquarium fish known for its two-tone coloration, curious personality, and entertaining perching behavior. Most individuals have a darker front half with a bright orange to yellow rear half, giving them a bold contrast that stands out nicely against live rock.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eBicolor Blennies are usually hardy, active, and full of personality. They spend much of their day hopping across rockwork, perching in small holes, and inspecting the aquarium like a tiny judgmental landlord. They are a great choice for established reef aquariums with plenty of live rock, hiding spots, and natural grazing surfaces.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThis species is generally considered reef-safe, but it should still be kept with some caution. Most Bicolor Blennies leave corals and invertebrates alone, though some individuals may occasionally nip at fleshy coral tissue, clam mantles, or other sessile invertebrates. So yes, mostly charming, but still technically a fish with free will. Annoying little loophole.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eNote:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Image is a representation of what to expect. The fish you receive may vary slightly in size, color, pattern, and overall appearance.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAQUARIUM REQUIREMENTS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAQUARIUM SIZE\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eA minimum tank size of \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e30 gallons or larger\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e is recommended for a Bicolor Blenny. While they stay relatively small, they need enough rockwork, grazing surface, and territory to feel secure.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eLarger aquariums provide more stability, more algae and biofilm for grazing, and more room to reduce territorial behavior toward similar-shaped fish.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eHABITAT RECOMMENDATIONS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eBicolor Blennies do best in established aquariums with plenty of live rock, hiding places, and stable water quality.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAquascaping:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Provide live rock with caves, holes, ledges, and crevices. Bicolor Blennies often choose a favorite hole or perch and return to it throughout the day like they are clocking into a tiny reef office.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSubstrate:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Sand or fine aragonite works well and helps create a natural reef-style environment.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eRockwork:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Live rock is strongly recommended. It gives the blenny places to hide, perch, and graze throughout the day.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTank Maturity:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e A mature aquarium is preferred, especially one with natural algae and biofilm growth. A spotless new tank may not provide enough natural grazing.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTank Cover:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e A tight-fitting lid is recommended. Blennies are known jumpers, because apparently living underwater was not enough of a commitment.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWATER PARAMETERS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eBicolor Blennies are considered hardy, but they still need clean, stable marine conditions. “Hardy” does not mean “throw it into chaos and let hope do the filtration.”\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTemperature:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 75-80°F\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003epH Level:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 8.1-8.4\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSalinity:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 1.020-1.026 specific gravity\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAmmonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Ammonia and nitrite should remain undetectable. Nitrate should be kept as low as reasonably possible, ideally below 20 ppm.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWater Flow:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Low to moderate flow is ideal. Provide enough water movement to keep the aquarium oxygenated and move waste toward filtration, while still giving the blenny calmer areas to perch and graze.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eDIET\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eBicolor Blennies are \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eomnivores\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e with a strong preference for algae-based foods and natural grazing. They spend much of their time picking at rockwork, glass, and other surfaces for algae, film, and tiny food particles.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePRIMARY DIET\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFrozen Food:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Offer mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, marine blends, and other small frozen foods. We at Summit City Coral prefer frozen foods such as \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eLRS Herbivore Frenzy\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e and \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePE Mysis\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePrepared Omnivore Foods:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e High-quality marine pellets, flakes, and omnivore blends can help provide a balanced diet. Smaller food sizes are best, especially for smaller individuals.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAlgae-Based Foods:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Spirulina flakes, herbivore pellets, algae wafers, nori, and herbivore blends should be included regularly.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eNatural Grazing:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Established live rock with film algae and biofilm can help support natural feeding behavior. This does not mean the blenny should be expected to solve an algae problem alone, because fish are not unpaid maintenance staff, no matter how suspiciously useful they look.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFEEDING FREQUENCY\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFeed small amounts \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e1-2 times per day\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e. In very clean aquariums, regular supplemental feeding is especially important so the blenny does not run out of natural grazing material.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCOMPATIBILITY\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eBicolor Blennies are generally peaceful and work well in community reef aquariums. They may become territorial toward other blennies, gobies, or similarly shaped fish, especially in smaller aquariums.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCOMMON TANK MATES\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFish:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Clownfish, cardinalfish, wrasses, firefish, tangs, dwarf angelfish, chromis, and other peaceful to semi-peaceful community fish.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAvoid:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Other blennies or similarly shaped bottom-perching fish in smaller aquariums unless there is enough space and rockwork to reduce territorial conflict. Also avoid large predatory fish that may eat them.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eInvertebrates:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Bicolor Blennies are usually safe with most cleaner shrimp, hermit crabs, snails, urchins, and other common reef invertebrates.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCoral:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Bicolor Blennies are generally considered \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ereef-safe with caution\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e. Most individuals ignore coral, but occasional nipping at fleshy corals, clam mantles, or sessile invertebrates is possible.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eBEHAVIORAL NOTES\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTemperament:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Peaceful overall, though they may defend a favorite hole, perch, or section of rockwork.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePersonality:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Very curious and active. Bicolor Blennies often perch in plain view and watch the room like they are silently reviewing everyone’s choices.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePerching Behavior:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e They frequently hop from rock to rock rather than swimming constantly in open water.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAlgae Grazing:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e They may help graze film algae and soft algae growth, but they should not be treated as a complete algae-control solution.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eReef Compatibility:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Usually excellent for reef tanks, though individual behavior can vary around clams and fleshy corals.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTerritoriality:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e May show aggression toward other blennies, gobies, or similar-shaped fish, especially in smaller systems.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eJumping:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e A tight-fitting lid is strongly recommended. Blennies are athletic in the worst possible way.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eACCLIMATION PROCESS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThis acclimation method helps reduce stress by gradually introducing the fish to your aquarium’s temperature and water chemistry.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e1. TURN OFF THE LIGHTS \u0026amp; ATO\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTurn off aquarium lights to reduce stress. If you have an Auto Top Off system, switch it off before starting acclimation.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e2. FLOAT THE BAG\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFloat the sealed bag in the aquarium for \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e15-20 minutes\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e to allow the temperature in the bag to equalize with the tank.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e3. OPEN BAG, ADD FISH TO CONTAINER\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCarefully open the bag and transfer the fish and shipping water into a clean bucket or container.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e4. ACCLIMATE USING TANK WATER\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAdd \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e1\/4 cup of tank water\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e to the container every \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e5 minutes for 40 minutes\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e5. TRANSFER FISH TO AQUARIUM\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eOnce acclimation is complete, gently transfer the fish into the aquarium using a net or specimen container. Discard the shipping water. Do not pour shipping water into your aquarium.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e6. REFILL THE AQUARIUM WITH SALTWATER\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eYou may need to replace the saltwater removed during acclimation with fresh mixed saltwater.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Summit City Coral","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48036544446747,"sku":null,"price":25.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0246\/5100\/5999\/files\/IMG_9935.jpg?v=1780963468"},{"product_id":"rainford-s-goby","title":"Rainford’s Goby (aka Court Jester Goby)","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"quick_stat_entry\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"quick_stat_label\"\u003eKoumansetta rainfordi\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"quick_stat_entry\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"quick_stat_label\"\u003e\u003ca\u003eCare Level: \u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"quick_stat_value\"\u003eModerate\u003c\/span\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"quick_stat_entry\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"quick_stat_label\"\u003e\u003ca\u003eTemperament: \u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"quick_stat_value\"\u003ePeaceful\u003c\/span\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"quick_stat_entry\"\u003e\n\u003cspan class=\"quick_stat_label\"\u003e\u003ca\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eDiet:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"quick_stat_value\"\u003eOmnivore\u003c\/span\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"quick_stat_entry\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"quick_stat_label\"\u003e\u003ca\u003eReef Compatible: \u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"quick_stat_value\"\u003eYes\u003c\/span\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"quick_stat_entry\"\u003e\n\u003cspan class=\"quick_stat_label\"\u003e\u003ca\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eWater Conditions:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"quick_stat_value\"\u003esg 1.020-1.025, 72-78° F, dKH 8-12, pH 8.1-8.4\u003c\/span\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"quick_stat_entry\"\u003e\n\u003cspan class=\"quick_stat_label\"\u003e\u003ca\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eMax Size:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"quick_stat_value\"\u003e3\"\u003c\/span\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"quick_stat_entry\"\u003e\n\u003cspan class=\"quick_stat_label\"\u003e\u003ca\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFamily:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"quick_stat_value\"\u003eGobiidae\u003c\/span\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"quick_stat_entry\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"quick_stat_label\"\u003e\u003ca\u003eMinimum Tank Size: \u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"quick_stat_value\"\u003e10 gallons\u003c\/span\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Summit City Coral","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48036551524635,"sku":null,"price":32.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}]},{"product_id":"wheeler-s-shrimp-goby","title":"Wheeler’s Watchman Goby","description":"\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eQUICK STATS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCare Level:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Easy to Moderate\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eDiet:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Carnivore\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTemperament:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Peaceful, Territorial With Similar Gobies\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eReef-Safe:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Yes\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eVenomous\/Toxic:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e No\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eApproximate Purchase Size:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 1-3\"\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eApproximate Max Size:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Around 3-4\"\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eRecommended Tank Size:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 20-30 Gallons or Larger\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWHEELER’S WATCHMAN GOBY\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThe \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWheeler’s Watchman Goby\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e (\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAmblyeleotris wheeleri\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cspan\u003e), also known as the \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWheeler’s Shrimp Goby\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e or \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eGorgeous Prawn Goby\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e, is a peaceful bottom-dwelling reef fish known for its pale body, orange to reddish bands, blue spotting, and watchful burrow-guarding behavior. It is one of the more attractive shrimp gobies, which is nice because apparently even tiny sandbed fish need designer markings now.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWheeler’s Watchman Gobies spend much of their time perched near a burrow entrance, watching the aquarium and retreating quickly when startled. They are generally peaceful with most community fish but may defend their burrow or territory from similar gobies. Like many shrimp gobies, they may pair with compatible pistol shrimp, creating one of the most entertaining partnerships in reef aquariums.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThis species is considered \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ereef-safe\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e and should not bother corals or most invertebrates. It may dig, move small amounts of sand, or use rubble around its burrow, so low-placed frags should be secured. Reef-safe does not always mean sandbed-safe, because apparently every goby comes with a tiny landscaping agenda.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eNote:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Image is a representation of what to expect. The fish you receive may vary slightly in size, color, banding, spotting, and overall appearance.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAQUARIUM REQUIREMENTS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAQUARIUM SIZE\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eA minimum tank size of \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e20 gallons or larger\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e can work for a single Wheeler’s Watchman Goby, though \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e30 gallons or larger\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e is preferred for better stability, more bottom space, and community tank setups.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThe aquarium footprint matters more than height because this fish spends most of its time near the bottom. A wider aquarium with sand, rockwork, and usable territory is more helpful than a tall narrow tank filled with vertical water it has no intention of appreciating.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eHABITAT RECOMMENDATIONS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWheeler’s Watchman Gobies do best in established aquariums with live rock, sandy substrate, stable rockwork, and secure hiding places.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAquascaping:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Provide live rock, caves, ledges, and open sandbed areas. Rockwork should be stable and placed securely, not balanced loosely on sand. Shrimp gobies and pistol shrimp can dig around rock bases, and gravity remains a humorless little monster.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSubstrate:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Fine sand or soft aragonite is recommended. A mix of sand and small rubble pieces can help the goby or pistol shrimp build and reinforce burrows.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eRockwork:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Live rock is strongly recommended. It provides shelter, biological filtration, territory, and structure around burrow entrances.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePistol Shrimp Pairing:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Wheeler’s Watchman Gobies may pair with compatible pistol shrimp, especially species in the \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAlpheus\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cspan\u003e genus. Pairing is not guaranteed, but when it happens, it creates a fascinating burrow-sharing relationship where the shrimp digs and the goby acts like a tiny suspicious security camera.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTank Maturity:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e A mature aquarium is preferred. Stable biological filtration and consistent water quality help this burrow-dwelling fish settle in and feed reliably.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTank Cover:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e A tight-fitting lid is strongly recommended. Wheeler’s Watchman Gobies can jump when startled, because apparently the emergency exit is always upward.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWATER PARAMETERS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWheeler’s Watchman Gobies are generally hardy once established, but they still need clean, stable marine conditions. “Hardy goby” does not mean “compatible with mystery water,” though the hobby does enjoy testing that tragic theory.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTemperature:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 72-78°F\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003epH Level:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 8.1-8.4\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSalinity:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 1.020-1.026 specific gravity\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAmmonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Ammonia and nitrite should remain undetectable. Nitrate should be kept as low as reasonably possible, ideally below 20 ppm.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWater Flow:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Low to moderate flow is ideal near the sandbed. Provide enough movement to keep the aquarium oxygenated and move waste toward filtration, while still allowing calmer areas near the goby’s burrow.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eDIET\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWheeler’s Watchman Gobies are \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ecarnivores\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e that should be offered a varied diet of small meaty marine foods. They usually accept frozen and prepared foods once settled, especially if food reaches the bottom of the aquarium near their burrow.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePRIMARY DIET\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFrozen Food:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Offer mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, cyclops, chopped clam, marine blends, and other small meaty frozen foods. We at Summit City Coral prefer frozen foods such as \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eLRS Reef Frenzy\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e and \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePE Mysis\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePrepared Foods:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e High-quality sinking pellets, carnivore pellets, and small marine pellets can help provide balanced nutrition. Sinking foods are especially useful because this fish spends most of its time near the bottom.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eLive Foods:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Copepods, amphipods, live brine shrimp, blackworms, and other small live foods can help encourage feeding, especially in newly introduced or shy individuals.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSmall Meaty Foods:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Finely chopped seafood and small crustacean-based foods can be offered in rotation. Avoid oversized foods unless you enjoy watching a goby stare at dinner like it has been handed a mortgage document.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFEEDING FREQUENCY\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFeed small amounts \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e1-2 times per day\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e, or \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e2-3 times per day\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e for new or shy individuals. Make sure food reaches the goby near its burrow or bottom territory, especially in tanks with faster fish that treat feeding time like a doorbuster sale.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCOMPATIBILITY\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWheeler’s Watchman Gobies are peaceful with most community fish and work well in reef aquariums. They may defend their burrow from similar gobies, especially in smaller tanks.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCOMMON TANK MATES\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFish:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Clownfish, cardinalfish, firefish, blennies, peaceful wrasses, chromis, dwarf angelfish, tangs in larger aquariums, and other peaceful to semi-peaceful reef fish.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAvoid:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Large predatory fish, aggressive dottybacks, aggressive damsels, triggers, groupers, lionfish, hawkfish large enough to eat them, and any fish likely to bully or swallow them.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSimilar Gobies:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Use caution with other shrimp gobies, watchman gobies, or similar bottom-dwelling species unless the aquarium is large enough to provide separate territories.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePistol Shrimp:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e May pair with compatible pistol shrimp. Pairing is not guaranteed, but it can create a fascinating burrow-sharing relationship.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eInvertebrates:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Usually safe with cleaner shrimp, hermit crabs, snails, urchins, and most common reef invertebrates. Very tiny ornamental shrimp or crustaceans may be at some risk from larger individuals.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCoral:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Wheeler’s Watchman Gobies are considered \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ereef-safe\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e and should not bother soft corals, LPS, SPS, zoanthids, mushrooms, clams, or anemones. They may move sand near low-placed frags because apparently substrate must be redistributed by committee.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eBEHAVIORAL NOTES\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTemperament:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Peaceful overall, but may become territorial around its burrow.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eBurrowing Behavior:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Often uses a burrow under rockwork or near caves. Provide stable rockwork and suitable substrate.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePistol Shrimp Relationship:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e May form a symbiotic pair with compatible pistol shrimp. The shrimp digs and maintains the burrow while the goby watches for danger.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePerching Behavior:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Frequently sits at the burrow entrance or on nearby sand and rockwork, watching the aquarium with intense little goby suspicion.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eReef Compatibility:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Excellent for reef tanks. They generally ignore corals and most invertebrates.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTerritoriality:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e May be aggressive toward similar gobies, especially other shrimp gobies or watchman gobies in smaller aquariums.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSand Movement:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e May move sand or rubble while using or maintaining a burrow. This is normal behavior, not a personal attack on your aquascape, although the visual result may feel targeted.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFeeding Behavior:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Usually accepts frozen and prepared foods once settled. Offer food near the bottom so it does not get outcompeted by faster fish.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eColoration:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Typically pale with orange to reddish bands, blue spotting, and attractive facial markings. Color intensity may vary depending on stress, age, lighting, and collection location.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eJumping:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e A tight-fitting lid is strongly recommended. Wheeler’s Watchman Gobies can dart upward when startled, because apparently panic has poor directional awareness.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eACCLIMATION PROCESS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThis acclimation method helps reduce stress by gradually introducing the fish to your aquarium’s temperature and water chemistry.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e1. TURN OFF THE LIGHTS \u0026amp; ATO\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTurn off aquarium lights to reduce stress. If you have an Auto Top Off system, switch it off before starting acclimation.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e2. FLOAT THE BAG\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFloat the sealed bag in the aquarium for \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e15-20 minutes\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e to allow the temperature in the bag to equalize with the tank.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e3. OPEN BAG, ADD FISH TO CONTAINER\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCarefully open the bag and transfer the fish and shipping water into a clean bucket or container.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e4. ACCLIMATE USING TANK WATER\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAdd \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e1\/4 cup of tank water\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e to the container every \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e5 minutes for 40 minutes\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e5. TRANSFER FISH TO AQUARIUM\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eOnce acclimation is complete, gently transfer the fish into the aquarium using a net or specimen container. Discard the shipping water. Do not pour shipping water into your aquarium.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e6. REFILL THE AQUARIUM WITH SALTWATER\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eYou may need to replace the saltwater removed during acclimation with fresh mixed saltwater.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Summit City Coral","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48036568826139,"sku":null,"price":28.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0246\/5100\/5999\/files\/IMG_1388.jpg?v=1780970765"},{"product_id":"neon-blue-cleaner-goby","title":"Neon Blue Cleaner Goby","description":"\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eQUICK STATS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCare Level:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Easy\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eDiet:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Carnivore\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTemperament:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Peaceful, Territorial With Its Own Kind\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eReef-Safe:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Yes\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eVenomous\/Toxic:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e No\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eApproximate Purchase Size:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 0.75-1.25\"\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eApproximate Max Size:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Around 2\"\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eRecommended Tank Size:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 10 Gallons or Larger\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eNEON BLUE CLEANER GOBY\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThe \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eNeon Blue Cleaner Goby\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e (\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan\u003eElacatinus oceanops\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cspan\u003e), also called the \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eNeon Goby\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e, \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eNeon Blue Goby\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e, or \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eElectric Blue Cleaner Goby\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e, is a tiny reef-safe goby known for its dark body and bright electric-blue horizontal stripes. It is small, hardy, peaceful, and active enough to add movement without acting like it owns the aquarium, which is refreshing behavior from a fish.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eNeon Blue Cleaner Gobies are popular because they stay small, adapt well to aquarium life, and may display natural cleaning behavior. They can set up a cleaning station where larger fish allow them to pick at parasites, mucus, or dead skin. This behavior is fascinating, mildly gross, and somehow still more professional than most meetings.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThis species is excellent for nano reefs, peaceful community tanks, and larger reef systems. It is generally reef-safe and should not bother corals or common invertebrates. Captive-bred individuals are especially desirable because they usually adapt well to prepared foods and aquarium conditions.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eNote:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Image is a representation of what to expect. The fish you receive may vary slightly in size, color, markings, stripe intensity, and overall appearance.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAQUARIUM REQUIREMENTS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAQUARIUM SIZE\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eA minimum tank size of \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e10 gallons or larger\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e is recommended for a Neon Blue Cleaner Goby. Because this fish stays very small and does not require large open swimming areas, it can do well in nano aquariums when water quality is stable.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFor pairs or community tanks, \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e20 gallons or larger\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e is preferred. Larger aquariums provide more stable water conditions, more hiding areas, and more room for tank mates.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eHABITAT RECOMMENDATIONS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eNeon Blue Cleaner Gobies do best in established aquariums with live rock, peaceful tank mates, and secure hiding places.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAquascaping:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Provide live rock, caves, crevices, and ledges. These gobies often perch on rockwork, hover near shelter, or choose a favorite spot to observe the tank like a tiny blue-striped inspector with no clipboard.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSubstrate:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Sand, fine aragonite, crushed coral, or bare-bottom systems can all work. This species does not rely on the sandbed.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eRockwork:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Live rock is strongly recommended. It provides shelter, territory, biological filtration, and natural surfaces for perching.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCleaning Stations:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Neon Blue Cleaner Gobies may establish a cleaning station where larger fish approach to be cleaned. Not every individual will perform this behavior consistently, especially if it is captive-bred and already very comfortable eating prepared foods.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTank Cover:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e A tight-fitting lid is recommended. Small gobies can jump, because apparently being two inches long does not come with better judgment.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWATER PARAMETERS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eNeon Blue Cleaner Gobies are hardy once established, but they still need clean, stable marine conditions. “Easy” does not mean “immune to nano tank chemistry nonsense,” because water remains annoyingly committed to science.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTemperature:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 72-78°F\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003epH Level:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 8.1-8.4\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSalinity:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 1.020-1.026 specific gravity\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAmmonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Ammonia and nitrite should remain undetectable. Nitrate should be kept as low as reasonably possible, ideally below 20 ppm.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWater Flow:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Low to moderate flow is ideal. Provide enough movement to keep the aquarium oxygenated and move waste toward filtration, while still allowing calmer areas for perching and resting.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eDIET\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eNeon Blue Cleaner Gobies are \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ecarnivores\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e that naturally feed on parasites, mucus, tiny crustaceans, and small meaty foods. In aquariums, they should be offered a varied diet and should not be expected to survive only by cleaning other fish.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePRIMARY DIET\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFrozen Food:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Offer mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, cyclops, finely chopped marine blends, and other small frozen foods. We at Summit City Coral prefer frozen foods such as \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eLRS Reef Frenzy\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e and \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePE Mysis\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e, chopped or broken down as needed for smaller gobies.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePrepared Foods:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e High-quality small marine pellets, flakes, and prepared carnivore foods can help provide balanced nutrition once the fish is eating reliably. Very small pellet sizes are best.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eLive Foods:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Copepods, amphipods, live brine shrimp, and other small live foods can help encourage feeding, especially in newly introduced or shy individuals.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCleaner Behavior:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e This goby may pick parasites, mucus, or dead tissue from larger fish, but cleaning should be viewed as natural behavior, not the complete feeding plan. Fish are not healthcare providers, despite this one having suspiciously good bedside manner.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFEEDING FREQUENCY\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFeed small amounts \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e1-2 times per day\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e. In community tanks, make sure food reaches the Neon Blue Cleaner Goby before faster fish inhale everything like aquatic debt collectors.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCOMPATIBILITY\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eNeon Blue Cleaner Gobies are peaceful and work well in nano reefs, peaceful community aquariums, and larger reef tanks. They are best housed with calm tank mates that will not bully or eat them.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCOMMON TANK MATES\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFish:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Clownfish, cardinalfish, firefish, peaceful gobies, blennies, small wrasses, chromis, dwarf angelfish, tangs in larger aquariums, and other peaceful to semi-peaceful reef fish.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAvoid:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Large predatory fish, aggressive dottybacks, aggressive damsels, triggers, groupers, lionfish, hawkfish large enough to eat them, and any fish likely to view them as a snack with blue racing stripes.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSame Species:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e May be territorial toward other Neon Blue Cleaner Gobies unless kept as a bonded pair. Multiple individuals should only be kept in larger aquariums with enough space and hiding areas.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eInvertebrates:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Safe with cleaner shrimp, hermit crabs, snails, urchins, and most common reef invertebrates.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCoral:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Neon Blue Cleaner Gobies are considered \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ereef-safe\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e and should not bother soft corals, LPS, SPS, zoanthids, mushrooms, clams, or anemones.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eBEHAVIORAL NOTES\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTemperament:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Peaceful overall, though it may defend a small territory from similar gobies.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCleaner Behavior:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e May clean larger fish by picking at parasites, mucus, or dead skin. This behavior is natural, but not guaranteed in every aquarium.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCaptive-Bred Advantage:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Captive-bred Neon Blue Cleaner Gobies usually adapt well to prepared foods and aquarium conditions.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eNano Reef Suitability:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Excellent choice for smaller reef aquariums due to its tiny size, peaceful nature, and low space requirements.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eReef Compatibility:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Excellent for reef tanks. They generally ignore coral and invertebrates.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eVisibility:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Often visible once settled, especially if housed with peaceful tank mates. Some individuals may choose a favorite perch or cleaning station.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePairing:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Can sometimes be kept as a bonded pair. Avoid mixing multiple individuals randomly in small tanks due to territorial behavior.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFeeding Risk:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Very small individuals can be outcompeted by faster fish. Make sure they are eating well, especially during the first few days after introduction.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eJumping:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e A tight-fitting lid is recommended. Tiny gobies are fully capable of making dramatic little launch decisions.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eACCLIMATION PROCESS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThis acclimation method helps reduce stress by gradually introducing the fish to your aquarium’s temperature and water chemistry.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e1. TURN OFF THE LIGHTS \u0026amp; ATO\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTurn off aquarium lights to reduce stress. If you have an Auto Top Off system, switch it off before starting acclimation.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e2. FLOAT THE BAG\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFloat the sealed bag in the aquarium for \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e15-20 minutes\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e to allow the temperature in the bag to equalize with the tank.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e3. OPEN BAG, ADD FISH TO CONTAINER\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCarefully open the bag and transfer the fish and shipping water into a clean bucket or container.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e4. ACCLIMATE USING TANK WATER\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAdd \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e1\/4 cup of tank water\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e to the container every \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e5 minutes for 40 minutes\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e5. TRANSFER FISH TO AQUARIUM\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eOnce acclimation is complete, gently transfer the fish into the aquarium using a net or specimen container. Discard the shipping water. Do not pour shipping water into your aquarium.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e6. REFILL THE AQUARIUM WITH SALTWATER\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eYou may need to replace the saltwater removed during acclimation with fresh mixed saltwater.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Summit City Coral","offers":[{"title":"Aquacultured","offer_id":52312840405275,"sku":"neoncleanergobyaqc","price":15.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Short Supply Chain","offer_id":52312841584923,"sku":"neonbluecleanergobyssc","price":15.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0246\/5100\/5999\/files\/IMG_9934.jpg?v=1780966535"},{"product_id":"vlamingi-tang","title":"Vlamingi Tang","description":"","brand":"Summit City Coral","offers":[{"title":"Juvenile","offer_id":49945212780827,"sku":null,"price":75.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"SM","offer_id":49761524056347,"sku":null,"price":90.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Trade-IN","offer_id":49761524089115,"sku":null,"price":100.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0246\/5100\/5999\/files\/23CEF058-B17F-421E-BF92-5D4625589A64.jpg?v=1746233060"},{"product_id":"scopas-tang","title":"Scopas Tang","description":"\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eQUICK STATS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCare Level:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Easy to Moderate\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eDiet:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Herbivore \/ Omnivore\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTemperament:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Semi-Aggressive\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eReef-Safe:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Yes\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eVenomous\/Toxic:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e No\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eApproximate Purchase Size:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 2-5\"\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eApproximate Max Size:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Around 8-12\"\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eRecommended Tank Size:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 125 Gallons or Larger\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSCOPAS TANG\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThe \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eScopas Tang\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e (\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan\u003eZebrasoma scopas\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cspan\u003e), also known as the \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eBrown Scopas Tang\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e or \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTwo-Tone Tang\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e, is a hardy surgeonfish known for its active grazing behavior, muted brown to yellow-gray coloration, and subtle patterning. While it may not be as flashy as a Purple Tang or Yellow Tang, it brings constant movement, algae grazing, and understated reef-worker energy to the aquarium.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eScopas Tangs are active herbivorous grazers that spend much of the day cruising the aquarium and picking at algae on rockwork. They are often considered one of the hardier tang options once established, but they still require a mature aquarium, stable water quality, plenty of swimming room, and regular algae-based feeding.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThis species is considered \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ereef-safe\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e and should not bother corals or most invertebrates when properly fed. Like other \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan\u003eZebrasoma\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cspan\u003e tangs, it can become territorial toward other tangs or similarly shaped algae grazers. It may look modest, but it still comes with the classic tang software: graze, patrol, judge, repeat.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eNote:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Image is a representation of what to expect. The fish you receive may vary slightly in size, color, markings, maturity, and overall appearance.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAQUARIUM REQUIREMENTS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAQUARIUM SIZE\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eA minimum tank size of \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e125 gallons or larger\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e is recommended for a Scopas Tang. While smaller juveniles may be raised temporarily in smaller aquariums, long-term care should be planned around adult size, swimming behavior, and territorial needs.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTank length and open swimming space are important. A long aquarium with clear swimming lanes is much better than a tall narrow tank pretending volume alone solves everything. Juvenile tangs are cute little reminders that future upgrades are expensive and biology does not care about your budget.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eHABITAT RECOMMENDATIONS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eScopas Tangs do best in large, mature aquariums with open swimming space, stable rockwork, strong filtration, and plenty of grazing opportunities.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAquascaping:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Provide open swimming room along with stable rock structures for grazing, shelter, and territory. Avoid overly dense aquascapes that block long swimming paths.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSubstrate:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Sand, fine aragonite, crushed coral, or bare-bottom systems can all work. This species does not depend heavily on the substrate.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eRockwork:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Live rock is strongly recommended. It provides grazing surfaces, shelter, territory, and biological filtration.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTank Maturity:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e A mature aquarium is preferred, especially one with natural algae and biofilm growth. Scopas Tangs benefit from regular grazing opportunities throughout the day.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTank Cover:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e A tight-fitting lid is recommended. Tangs are not the most famous jumpers, but large startled fish can still make athletic mistakes with impressive financial consequences.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWATER PARAMETERS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eScopas Tangs are generally hardy once established, but they still need clean, stable marine conditions. “Hardy tang” does not mean “immune to water-quality crimes,” though apparently every aquarium hobbyist gets one free trial of that lesson.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTemperature:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 72-79°F\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003epH Level:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 8.1-8.4\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSalinity:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 1.020-1.026 specific gravity\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAmmonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Ammonia and nitrite should remain undetectable. Nitrate should be kept as low as reasonably possible, ideally below 20 ppm.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWater Flow:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Moderate to strong water movement is ideal. Provide strong oxygenation, efficient filtration, and enough flow to move waste toward filtration while still allowing comfortable swimming space.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eDIET\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eScopas Tangs are primarily \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eherbivorous grazers\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e, though they will accept a variety of omnivore foods in the aquarium. A diet rich in marine algae is important for maintaining body weight, digestion, color, and immune health.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePRIMARY DIET\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFrozen Food:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Offer algae-rich frozen foods, mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, marine blends, and other high-quality frozen foods. We at Summit City Coral prefer frozen foods such as \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eLRS Herbivore Frenzy\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e and \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePE Mysis\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePrepared Herbivore Foods:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e High-quality herbivore pellets, marine algae pellets, spirulina flakes, and omnivore blends can help provide balanced nutrition.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAlgae-Based Foods:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Nori, seaweed sheets, spirulina, algae wafers, herbivore blends, and marine algae foods should be offered regularly. Clip seaweed sheets to the glass or rockwork so the tang can graze naturally.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eNatural Grazing:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Established live rock with film algae and biofilm can help support natural feeding behavior. This should be viewed as supplemental, not the entire feeding plan. A tang is not a free algae-control employee with a tail knife and questionable manners.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFEEDING FREQUENCY\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFeed small amounts \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e1-2 times per day\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e, with algae-based foods offered frequently. Tangs do best when they can graze throughout the day, so regular access to seaweed or algae-based foods is strongly recommended.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCOMPATIBILITY\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eScopas Tangs are semi-aggressive and can work well in large reef aquariums with appropriate tank mates. They may become territorial toward other tangs, especially other \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eZebrasoma\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e species or similarly shaped algae grazers.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCOMMON TANK MATES\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFish:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Clownfish, cardinalfish, wrasses, gobies, blennies, rabbitfish, foxfaces, dwarf angelfish, larger peaceful fish, and other community reef fish.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAvoid:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Other tangs or surgeonfish in smaller aquariums unless the tank is large enough and introductions are carefully managed. Avoid overly aggressive fish that may constantly harass the tang, as well as very timid fish that may be outcompeted.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eOther Tangs:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Use caution when mixing with other tangs. Add tangs carefully, provide plenty of space, and avoid combining too many similarly shaped or closely related species in undersized systems. Scopas Tangs can be especially pushy with other \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan\u003eZebrasoma\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cspan\u003e tangs.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eInvertebrates:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Usually safe with cleaner shrimp, hermit crabs, snails, urchins, and common cleanup crew animals.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCoral:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Scopas Tangs are considered \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ereef-safe\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e and should not bother soft corals, LPS, SPS, zoanthids, mushrooms, clams, or anemones when well-fed. Like many herbivores, underfed individuals may become more likely to investigate surfaces they should leave alone, because hunger is a terrible consultant.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eBEHAVIORAL NOTES\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTemperament:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Semi-aggressive. Usually manageable in properly sized aquariums, but may become territorial once established.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAlgae Grazing:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Strong grazer for film algae and softer algae growth. Still requires regular feeding and should not be used as the entire algae-control plan.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eReef Compatibility:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Excellent for reef tanks when properly fed. They generally ignore corals and most invertebrates.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSwimming Style:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Active swimmer that needs long open swimming paths and should not be cramped into undersized aquariums.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTang Scalpel:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Like other surgeonfish, Scopas Tangs have a sharp scalpel-like spine near the tail used for defense. Use caution when catching, transferring, or working around the fish. It is not venomous, just equipped with a tiny biological box cutter, because fish apparently needed hardware.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTerritoriality:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e May show aggression toward other tangs or similarly shaped fish, especially after becoming established.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eColoration:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Typically shows brown, tan, gray, yellowish, or two-tone coloration with subtle patterning. Some individuals may appear darker or lighter depending on age, mood, stress, diet, and lighting.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eHardiness:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Often considered a relatively hardy tang once settled, but still requires stable water quality, strong nutrition, and enough swimming room.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eDisease Susceptibility:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Like many tangs, Scopas Tangs can be prone to external parasites when stressed. Quarantine, observation, strong nutrition, and stable water quality are strongly recommended.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTank Size Reality:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e This is an active tang that should be planned around adult size and swimming behavior, not purchase size. Buying a juvenile and pretending it will stay small is denial wearing a fish bag.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eJumping:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e A tight-fitting lid is recommended. Large fish can still make sudden, athletic mistakes.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eACCLIMATION PROCESS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThis acclimation method helps reduce stress by gradually introducing the fish to your aquarium’s temperature and water chemistry.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e1. TURN OFF THE LIGHTS \u0026amp; ATO\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTurn off aquarium lights to reduce stress. If you have an Auto Top Off system, switch it off before starting acclimation.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e2. FLOAT THE BAG\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFloat the sealed bag in the aquarium for \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e15-20 minutes\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e to allow the temperature in the bag to equalize with the tank.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e3. OPEN BAG, ADD FISH TO CONTAINER\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCarefully open the bag and transfer the fish and shipping water into a clean bucket or container.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e4. ACCLIMATE USING TANK WATER\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAdd \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e1\/4 cup of tank water\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e to the container every \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e5 minutes for 40 minutes\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e5. TRANSFER FISH TO AQUARIUM\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eOnce acclimation is complete, gently transfer the fish into the aquarium using a net or specimen container. Use caution near the tail spine when handling tangs. Discard the shipping water. Do not pour shipping water into your aquarium.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e6. REFILL THE AQUARIUM WITH SALTWATER\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eYou may need to replace the saltwater removed during acclimation with fresh mixed saltwater.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Summit City Coral","offers":[{"title":"Wild Small","offer_id":51154716721435,"sku":null,"price":95.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Wild Medium","offer_id":49456447193371,"sku":null,"price":99.66,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"Wild Large","offer_id":50307145236763,"sku":null,"price":105.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Wild XL","offer_id":51033481576731,"sku":null,"price":135.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"SSC Small","offer_id":52296433271067,"sku":null,"price":60.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"SSC Medium","offer_id":52312890638619,"sku":null,"price":70.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0246\/5100\/5999\/files\/IMG_1294_85247b3e-6b2d-4b32-895d-5b9eeb7445d3.jpg?v=1780969260"},{"product_id":"desjardini-sailfin-tang","title":"Desjardini Sailfin Tang","description":"","brand":"Summit City Coral","offers":[{"title":"Medium","offer_id":50235002683675,"sku":null,"price":140.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Large","offer_id":49864378417435,"sku":"","price":175.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0246\/5100\/5999\/files\/IMG_3673.jpg?v=1755193207"},{"product_id":"blue-green-chromis","title":"Blue Green Chromis","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"qMYqUG_convSearchResultHighlightRoot\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"\" data-turn-id-container=\"request-69f4c13c-768c-83ea-9b7a-bf81c73da797-1\" data-is-intersecting=\"true\"\u003e\n\u003csection class=\"text-token-text-primary w-full focus:outline-none has-data-writing-block:pointer-events-none [\u0026amp;:has([data-writing-block])\u0026gt;*]:pointer-events-auto R6Vx5W_threadScrollVars scroll-mb-[calc(var(--scroll-root-safe-area-inset-bottom,0px)+var(--thread-response-height))] scroll-mt-[calc(var(--header-height)+min(200px,max(70px,20svh)))]\" dir=\"auto\" data-turn-id=\"request-69f4c13c-768c-83ea-9b7a-bf81c73da797-1\" data-turn-id-container=\"request-69f4c13c-768c-83ea-9b7a-bf81c73da797-1\" data-testid=\"conversation-turn-20\" data-scroll-anchor=\"false\" data-turn=\"assistant\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"text-base my-auto mx-auto pb-10 [--thread-content-margin:var(--thread-content-margin-xs,calc(var(--spacing)*4))] @w-sm\/main:[--thread-content-margin:var(--thread-content-margin-sm,calc(var(--spacing)*6))] @w-lg\/main:[--thread-content-margin:var(--thread-content-margin-lg,calc(var(--spacing)*16))] px-(--thread-content-margin)\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"[--thread-content-max-width:40rem] @w-lg\/main:[--thread-content-max-width:48rem] mx-auto max-w-(--thread-content-max-width) flex-1 group\/turn-messages focus-visible:outline-hidden relative flex w-full min-w-0 flex-col agent-turn\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"flex max-w-full flex-col gap-4 grow\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv data-message-author-role=\"assistant\" data-message-id=\"41902bbb-c8c8-4193-b1a0-e2b4fdc40ed2\" dir=\"auto\" data-message-model-slug=\"gpt-5-5-thinking\" class=\"min-h-8 text-message relative flex w-full flex-col items-end gap-2 text-start break-words whitespace-normal outline-none keyboard-focused:focus-ring [.text-message+\u0026amp;]:mt-1\" data-turn-start-message=\"true\" tabindex=\"0\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"flex w-full flex-col gap-1 empty:hidden\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"markdown prose dark:prose-invert wrap-break-word w-full dark markdown-new-styling\"\u003e\n\u003ch2 data-section-id=\"vovuw1\" data-start=\"335\" data-end=\"349\"\u003eQUICK STATS\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"351\" data-end=\"643\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"351\" data-end=\"366\"\u003eCare Level:\u003c\/strong\u003e Easy to Moderate\u003cbr data-start=\"383\" data-end=\"386\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"386\" data-end=\"395\"\u003eDiet:\u003c\/strong\u003e Omnivore\u003cbr data-start=\"404\" data-end=\"407\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"407\" data-end=\"423\"\u003eTemperament:\u003c\/strong\u003e Peaceful to Mildly Territorial\u003cbr data-start=\"454\" data-end=\"457\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"457\" data-end=\"471\"\u003eReef-Safe:\u003c\/strong\u003e Yes\u003cbr data-start=\"494\" data-end=\"497\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"497\" data-end=\"508\"\u003eSource:\u003c\/strong\u003e See Options\u003cbr data-start=\"520\" data-end=\"523\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"523\" data-end=\"553\"\u003eApproximate Purchase Size:\u003c\/strong\u003e 1-2\"\u003cbr data-start=\"558\" data-end=\"561\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"561\" data-end=\"586\"\u003eApproximate Max Size:\u003c\/strong\u003e 3-4\"\u003cbr data-start=\"591\" data-end=\"594\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"594\" data-end=\"620\"\u003eRecommended Tank Size:\u003c\/strong\u003e 30 Gallons or Larger\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr data-start=\"645\" data-end=\"648\"\u003e\n\u003ch2 data-section-id=\"j4wko1\" data-start=\"650\" data-end=\"671\"\u003eBLUE GREEN CHROMIS\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"673\" data-end=\"1058\"\u003eThe \u003cstrong data-start=\"677\" data-end=\"699\"\u003eBlue Green Chromis\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem data-start=\"701\" data-end=\"718\"\u003eChromis viridis\u003c\/em\u003e) is a classic saltwater aquarium fish known for its shimmering blue-green coloration, active swimming behavior, and peaceful nature. Their color can shift depending on lighting, giving them a bright metallic look that adds movement and sparkle to reef aquariums without demanding the spotlight like some emotionally needy centerpiece fish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"1060\" data-end=\"1592\"\u003eBlue Green Chromis are popular because they are hardy, reef-safe, and usually active in the upper to middle areas of the aquarium. They are often kept in small groups, though aquarists should know that chromis may develop a social hierarchy over time. In plain English: sometimes the group gets along beautifully, and sometimes one chromis starts acting like it owns the lease. Small groups of \u003cstrong data-start=\"1454\" data-end=\"1473\"\u003e3-5 individuals\u003c\/strong\u003e are commonly recommended, with larger tanks helping reduce territorial disputes. \u003cspan class=\"\" data-state=\"closed\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"1594\" data-end=\"1899\"\u003eThis species does best in aquariums with stable water quality, open swimming space, and enough rockwork for shelter. They make a great choice for reef tanks because they generally leave corals and invertebrates alone, which is the bare minimum we ask of fish and yet somehow still feels worth celebrating.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"1901\" data-end=\"2034\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"1901\" data-end=\"1910\"\u003eNote:\u003c\/strong\u003e Image is a representation of what to expect. The fish you receive may vary slightly in size, color, and overall appearance.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr data-start=\"2036\" data-end=\"2039\"\u003e\n\u003ch1 data-section-id=\"82rpn1\" data-start=\"2041\" data-end=\"2064\"\u003eAQUARIUM REQUIREMENTS\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003ch2 data-section-id=\"16vtdl3\" data-start=\"2066\" data-end=\"2082\"\u003eAQUARIUM SIZE\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"2084\" data-end=\"2467\"\u003eA minimum tank size of \u003cstrong data-start=\"2107\" data-end=\"2131\"\u003e30 gallons or larger\u003c\/strong\u003e is recommended for a Blue Green Chromis. While a single chromis can do well in smaller established systems, groups will benefit from more swimming room and a larger aquarium. Blue Green Chromis are active mid-water swimmers, so open space in the middle and upper portions of the tank is important. \u003cspan class=\"\" data-state=\"closed\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2 data-section-id=\"1xl8pto\" data-start=\"2469\" data-end=\"2495\"\u003eHABITAT RECOMMENDATIONS\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"2497\" data-end=\"2625\"\u003eBlue Green Chromis are adaptable, but they do best in stable reef aquariums with both open swimming space and areas for shelter.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"2627\" data-end=\"2812\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"2627\" data-end=\"2643\"\u003eAquascaping:\u003c\/strong\u003e Provide open swimming room along with live rock, caves, and overhangs. This gives them places to retreat when startled or when the group starts holding tiny fish court.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"2814\" data-end=\"2913\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"2814\" data-end=\"2828\"\u003eSubstrate:\u003c\/strong\u003e Sand or fine aragonite works well and helps create a natural reef-style environment.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"2915\" data-end=\"3114\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"2915\" data-end=\"2928\"\u003eRockwork:\u003c\/strong\u003e Live rock is recommended for shelter and overall biological stability. Chromis may spend much of the day in the water column but still appreciate having somewhere to hide when startled.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"3116\" data-end=\"3261\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"3116\" data-end=\"3131\"\u003eTank Cover:\u003c\/strong\u003e A tight-fitting lid is recommended. They are not the most infamous jumpers, but fish are deeply committed to proving lids matter.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr data-start=\"3263\" data-end=\"3266\"\u003e\n\u003ch1 data-section-id=\"1obglah\" data-start=\"3268\" data-end=\"3286\"\u003eWATER PARAMETERS\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"3288\" data-end=\"3487\"\u003eBlue Green Chromis are considered hardy, but they still need stable marine conditions. “Hardy” does not mean “immune to chaos,” despite what every beginner aquarium disaster seems determined to test.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"3489\" data-end=\"3928\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"3489\" data-end=\"3505\"\u003eTemperature:\u003c\/strong\u003e 75-79°F\u003cbr data-start=\"3513\" data-end=\"3516\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"3516\" data-end=\"3529\"\u003epH Level:\u003c\/strong\u003e 8.1-8.4\u003cbr data-start=\"3537\" data-end=\"3540\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"3540\" data-end=\"3553\"\u003eSalinity:\u003c\/strong\u003e 1.020-1.026 specific gravity\u003cbr data-start=\"3582\" data-end=\"3585\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"3585\" data-end=\"3600\"\u003eAlkalinity:\u003c\/strong\u003e 8-12 dKH\u003cbr data-start=\"3609\" data-end=\"3612\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"3612\" data-end=\"3646\"\u003eAmmonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate:\u003c\/strong\u003e Ammonia and nitrite should remain undetectable. Nitrate should be kept as low as reasonably possible, ideally below 20 ppm.\u003cbr data-start=\"3770\" data-end=\"3773\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"3773\" data-end=\"3788\"\u003eWater Flow:\u003c\/strong\u003e Moderate water movement is ideal. They often enjoy swimming in active water flow, especially in the upper and middle areas of the aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr data-start=\"3930\" data-end=\"3933\"\u003e\n\u003ch1 data-section-id=\"1htcpsq\" data-start=\"3935\" data-end=\"3941\"\u003eDIET\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"3943\" data-end=\"4242\"\u003eBlue Green Chromis are \u003cstrong data-start=\"3966\" data-end=\"3979\"\u003eomnivores\u003c\/strong\u003e and should be fed a varied diet that includes both meaty and plant-based foods. In the wild, they feed on planktonic foods and other tiny organisms in the water column, so smaller foods offered throughout the week are ideal. \u003cspan class=\"\" data-state=\"closed\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2 data-section-id=\"j8hkph\" data-start=\"4244\" data-end=\"4259\"\u003ePRIMARY DIET\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"4261\" data-end=\"4682\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"4261\" data-end=\"4277\"\u003eFrozen Food:\u003c\/strong\u003e Offer mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, marine blends, and other small frozen foods. Our favorite food for Blue Green Chromis is \u003cspan style=\"text-decoration: underline;\"\u003eReef Frenzy by LRS\u003c\/span\u003e because it offers a great variety of marine ingredients and usually gets a strong feeding response. Fish eating enthusiastically is helpful, mostly because watching livestock ignore expensive food is one of the hobby’s most disrespectful traditions.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"4684\" data-end=\"4822\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"4684\" data-end=\"4703\"\u003ePrepared Foods:\u003c\/strong\u003e High-quality marine pellets or flakes can be offered once the fish are eating reliably. Smaller pellet sizes are best.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"4824\" data-end=\"4948\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"4824\" data-end=\"4847\"\u003eSupplemental Foods:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copepods, amphipods, and other small plankton-sized foods can help support natural feeding behavior.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"4950\" data-end=\"5074\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"4950\" data-end=\"4972\"\u003eAlgae-Based Foods:\u003c\/strong\u003e Spirulina flakes, herbivore blends, or mixed omnivore foods can be included occasionally for variety.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2 data-section-id=\"jowmzn\" data-start=\"5076\" data-end=\"5096\"\u003eFEEDING FREQUENCY\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"5098\" data-end=\"5272\"\u003eFeed small amounts \u003cstrong data-start=\"5117\" data-end=\"5138\"\u003e1-2 times per day\u003c\/strong\u003e. In groups, make sure all individuals are getting food and not just the fastest little blue-green missile with a superiority complex.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr data-start=\"5274\" data-end=\"5277\"\u003e\n\u003ch1 data-section-id=\"1gpoq14\" data-start=\"5279\" data-end=\"5294\"\u003eCOMPATIBILITY\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"5296\" data-end=\"5548\"\u003eBlue Green Chromis are generally peaceful and work well in community reef aquariums. They can be kept singly or in groups, but groups may develop pecking-order behavior over time. Larger tanks and frequent feeding can help reduce stress and aggression.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2 data-section-id=\"tzqlcm\" data-start=\"5550\" data-end=\"5570\"\u003eCOMMON TANK MATES\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"5572\" data-end=\"5719\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"5572\" data-end=\"5581\"\u003eFish:\u003c\/strong\u003e Clownfish, cardinalfish, gobies, blennies, wrasses, firefish, dwarf angelfish, tangs, and other peaceful to semi-peaceful community fish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"5721\" data-end=\"5937\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"5721\" data-end=\"5731\"\u003eAvoid:\u003c\/strong\u003e Large predatory fish such as lionfish, groupers, large eels, and aggressive fish that may bully or eat them. Tiny peaceful fish do not need to become expensive snacks. \u003cspan class=\"\" data-state=\"closed\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"5939\" data-end=\"6079\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"5939\" data-end=\"5957\"\u003eInvertebrates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Blue Green Chromis are safe with most cleaner shrimp, hermit crabs, snails, urchins, and other common reef invertebrates.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"6081\" data-end=\"6219\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"6081\" data-end=\"6091\"\u003eCoral:\u003c\/strong\u003e Blue Green Chromis are considered \u003cstrong data-start=\"6126\" data-end=\"6139\"\u003ereef-safe\u003c\/strong\u003e and should not bother soft corals, LPS, SPS, zoanthids, mushrooms, or anemones.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr data-start=\"6221\" data-end=\"6224\"\u003e\n\u003ch1 data-section-id=\"1tuscsk\" data-start=\"6226\" data-end=\"6244\"\u003eBEHAVIORAL NOTES\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"6246\" data-end=\"6375\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"6246\" data-end=\"6262\"\u003eTemperament:\u003c\/strong\u003e Peaceful overall, though groups can form a hierarchy. Occasional chasing may occur, especially in smaller tanks.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"6377\" data-end=\"6575\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"6377\" data-end=\"6400\"\u003eSchooling Behavior:\u003c\/strong\u003e Often sold as a schooling fish, but in aquariums they may behave more like a loose group than a perfect synchronized display. Nature did not consult the marketing department.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"6577\" data-end=\"6665\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"6577\" data-end=\"6596\"\u003eActivity Level:\u003c\/strong\u003e Very active and usually visible in the middle to upper water column.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"6667\" data-end=\"6763\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"6667\" data-end=\"6690\"\u003eReef Compatibility:\u003c\/strong\u003e Excellent for reef tanks. They generally ignore coral and invertebrates.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"6765\" data-end=\"7006\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"6765\" data-end=\"6783\"\u003eGroup Keeping:\u003c\/strong\u003e Small groups of \u003cstrong data-start=\"6800\" data-end=\"6807\"\u003e3-5\u003c\/strong\u003e are commonly recommended, but long-term success depends on tank size, feeding, and individual behavior. Larger systems tend to offer better results with groups. \u003cspan class=\"\" data-state=\"closed\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"7008\" data-end=\"7112\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"7008\" data-end=\"7020\"\u003eJumping:\u003c\/strong\u003e A tight-fitting lid is recommended. Again, because apparently water is not enough for fish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr data-start=\"7114\" data-end=\"7117\"\u003e\n\u003ch1 data-section-id=\"31mpa1\" data-start=\"7119\" data-end=\"7140\"\u003eACCLIMATION PROCESS\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"7142\" data-end=\"7271\"\u003eThis acclimation method helps reduce stress by gradually introducing the fish to your aquarium’s temperature and water chemistry.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2 data-section-id=\"1x3zjfk\" data-start=\"7273\" data-end=\"7304\"\u003e1. TURN OFF THE LIGHTS \u0026amp; ATO\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"7306\" data-end=\"7427\"\u003eTurn off aquarium lights to reduce stress. If you have an Auto Top Off system, switch it off before starting acclimation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2 data-section-id=\"1m48jbo\" data-start=\"7429\" data-end=\"7448\"\u003e2. FLOAT THE BAG\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"7450\" data-end=\"7571\"\u003eFloat the sealed bag in the aquarium for \u003cstrong data-start=\"7491\" data-end=\"7508\"\u003e15-20 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e to allow the temperature in the bag to equalize with the tank.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2 data-section-id=\"pkuw25\" data-start=\"7573\" data-end=\"7610\"\u003e3. OPEN BAG, ADD FISH TO CONTAINER\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"7612\" data-end=\"7709\"\u003eCarefully open the bag and transfer the fish and shipping water into a clean bucket or container.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2 data-section-id=\"1bsy6o5\" data-start=\"7711\" data-end=\"7743\"\u003e4. ACCLIMATE USING TANK WATER\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"7745\" data-end=\"7827\"\u003eAdd \u003cstrong data-start=\"7749\" data-end=\"7774\"\u003e1\/4 cup of tank water\u003c\/strong\u003e to the container every \u003cstrong data-start=\"7798\" data-end=\"7826\"\u003e5 minutes for 40 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2 data-section-id=\"zqkrr1\" data-start=\"7829\" data-end=\"7860\"\u003e5. TRANSFER FISH TO AQUARIUM\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"7862\" data-end=\"8045\"\u003eOnce acclimation is complete, use a net or specimen container to gently transfer the fish into the aquarium. Discard the shipping water. Do not pour shipping water into your aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2 data-section-id=\"g414va\" data-start=\"8047\" data-end=\"8087\"\u003e6. REFILL THE AQUARIUM WITH SALTWATER\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"8089\" data-end=\"8181\"\u003eYou may need to replace the saltwater removed during acclimation with fresh mixed saltwater.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/section\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Summit City Coral","offers":[{"title":"Wild","offer_id":52259749691675,"sku":null,"price":9.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Short Supply Chain","offer_id":52259749724443,"sku":null,"price":9.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Aquacultured","offer_id":52259749757211,"sku":null,"price":9.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0246\/5100\/5999\/files\/IMG_4712.jpg?v=1779799200"},{"product_id":"springer-s-damsel","title":"Springer’s Demoiselle (aka Springeri Damselfish)","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"quick_stat_entry\"\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eQuick Stats\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCare Level:\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003eEasy\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eDiet:\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003eOmnivore\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eTemperament:\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003eSemi-Aggressive\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eReef-Safe:\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003eYes\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eApproximate Purchase Size:\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e1\"\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eApproximate Max Size:\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e2\"\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eRecommended Tank Size:\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e20 Gallons or Larger\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eOverview\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe Springer's Demoiselle, also known commonly as the Springeri Damselfish (\u003cem\u003eChrysiptera cf. springeri\u003c\/em\u003e), is a deep blue body with black striations. Known for its hardiness, the Springeri Damselfish is an excellent choice for aquarists of all experience levels, adapting well to various tank environments. Whether you’re a beginner or an experienced hobbyist, this lively fish adds both beauty and a bit of personality to your saltwater aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eWhile this Damselfish may exhibit territorial behavior as it matures, it will thrive in setups with plenty of hiding spaces. Given its reef-safe nature, this species is compatible with a wide range of tank mates, including peaceful\/semi-aggressive fish, invertebrates, and coral. Easy to care for and full of energy, this fish makes a colorful, low-maintenance addition to your reef tank.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eNote: Image is a representation of what to expect. The fish you receive may vary slightly in appearance.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Summit City Coral","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48037076730139,"sku":null,"price":14.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}]},{"product_id":"bluestreak-cleaner-wrasse","title":"Bluestreak Cleaner Wrasse","description":"","brand":"Summit City Coral","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48037082202395,"sku":null,"price":25.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0246\/5100\/5999\/files\/0ED9A55F-63F5-477C-A2F8-1CFDF9D2D7AD.jpg?v=1710614045"},{"product_id":"singapore-angelfish","title":"Singapore Angelfish","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"quick_stat_entry\"\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan class=\"quick_stat_label\"\u003eChaetodontoplus mesoleucus\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"quick_stat_entry\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"quick_stat_label\"\u003e\u003ca\u003eCare Level: \u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"quick_stat_value\"\u003eDifficult\u003c\/span\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"quick_stat_entry\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"quick_stat_label\"\u003e\u003ca\u003eTemperament: \u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"quick_stat_value\"\u003eSemi-aggressive\u003c\/span\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"quick_stat_entry\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"quick_stat_label\"\u003e\u003ca\u003eDiet: \u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"quick_stat_value\"\u003eOmnivore\u003c\/span\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"quick_stat_entry\"\u003e\n\u003cspan class=\"quick_stat_label\"\u003e\u003ca\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eReef Compatible:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"quick_stat_value\"\u003eWith Caution\u003c\/span\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"quick_stat_entry\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"quick_stat_label\"\u003e\u003ca\u003eWater Conditions: \u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"quick_stat_value\"\u003esg 1.020-1.025, 72-78° F, dKH 8-12, pH 8.1-8.4\u003c\/span\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"quick_stat_entry\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"quick_stat_label\"\u003e\u003ca\u003eMax Size: \u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"quick_stat_value\"\u003e7\"\u003c\/span\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"quick_stat_entry\"\u003e\n\u003cspan class=\"quick_stat_label\"\u003e\u003ca\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eFamily:\u003c\/strong\u003e \u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cspan class=\"quick_stat_value\"\u003ePomacanthidae\u003c\/span\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"quick_stat_entry\"\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"quick_stat_label\"\u003e\u003ca\u003eMinimum Tank Size: \u003c\/a\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan class=\"quick_stat_value\"\u003e120 gallons\u003c\/span\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Summit City Coral","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48037087805723,"sku":null,"price":65.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0246\/5100\/5999\/files\/IMG_7640.jpg?v=1769109970"},{"product_id":"banggai-cardinalfish","title":"Banggai Cardinalfish","description":"\u003cdiv class=\"qMYqUG_convSearchResultHighlightRoot\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"\" data-turn-id-container=\"request-69f4c13c-768c-83ea-9b7a-bf81c73da797-5\" data-is-intersecting=\"true\"\u003e\n\u003csection class=\"text-token-text-primary w-full focus:outline-none has-data-writing-block:pointer-events-none [\u0026amp;:has([data-writing-block])\u0026gt;*]:pointer-events-auto R6Vx5W_threadScrollVars scroll-mb-[calc(var(--scroll-root-safe-area-inset-bottom,0px)+var(--thread-response-height))] scroll-mt-[calc(var(--header-height)+min(200px,max(70px,20svh)))]\" dir=\"auto\" data-turn-id=\"request-69f4c13c-768c-83ea-9b7a-bf81c73da797-5\" data-turn-id-container=\"request-69f4c13c-768c-83ea-9b7a-bf81c73da797-5\" data-testid=\"conversation-turn-28\" data-scroll-anchor=\"false\" data-turn=\"assistant\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"text-base my-auto mx-auto pb-10 [--thread-content-margin:var(--thread-content-margin-xs,calc(var(--spacing)*4))] @w-sm\/main:[--thread-content-margin:var(--thread-content-margin-sm,calc(var(--spacing)*6))] @w-lg\/main:[--thread-content-margin:var(--thread-content-margin-lg,calc(var(--spacing)*16))] px-(--thread-content-margin)\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"[--thread-content-max-width:40rem] @w-lg\/main:[--thread-content-max-width:48rem] mx-auto max-w-(--thread-content-max-width) flex-1 group\/turn-messages focus-visible:outline-hidden relative flex w-full min-w-0 flex-col agent-turn\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"flex max-w-full flex-col gap-4 grow\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv data-message-author-role=\"assistant\" data-message-id=\"562099e4-4444-44dc-b72b-e864ca44e713\" dir=\"auto\" data-message-model-slug=\"gpt-5-5-thinking\" class=\"min-h-8 text-message relative flex w-full flex-col items-end gap-2 text-start break-words whitespace-normal outline-none keyboard-focused:focus-ring [.text-message+\u0026amp;]:mt-1\" data-turn-start-message=\"true\" tabindex=\"0\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"flex w-full flex-col gap-1 empty:hidden\"\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"markdown prose dark:prose-invert wrap-break-word w-full dark markdown-new-styling\"\u003e\n\u003ch2 data-section-id=\"vovuw1\" data-start=\"238\" data-end=\"252\"\u003eQUICK STATS\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"254\" data-end=\"565\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"254\" data-end=\"269\"\u003eCare Level:\u003c\/strong\u003e Easy to Moderate\u003cbr data-start=\"286\" data-end=\"289\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"289\" data-end=\"298\"\u003eDiet:\u003c\/strong\u003e Carnivore\u003cbr data-start=\"308\" data-end=\"311\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"311\" data-end=\"327\"\u003eTemperament:\u003c\/strong\u003e Peaceful, May Be Territorial With Its Own Kind\u003cbr data-start=\"374\" data-end=\"377\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"377\" data-end=\"391\"\u003eReef-Safe:\u003c\/strong\u003e Yes\u003cbr data-start=\"414\" data-end=\"417\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"417\" data-end=\"428\"\u003eSource:\u003c\/strong\u003e See Options\u003cbr data-start=\"440\" data-end=\"443\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"443\" data-end=\"473\"\u003eApproximate Purchase Size:\u003c\/strong\u003e 1-2\"\u003cbr data-start=\"478\" data-end=\"481\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"481\" data-end=\"506\"\u003eApproximate Max Size:\u003c\/strong\u003e 3-3.5\"\u003cbr data-start=\"513\" data-end=\"516\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"516\" data-end=\"542\"\u003eRecommended Tank Size:\u003c\/strong\u003e 30 Gallons or Larger\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr data-start=\"567\" data-end=\"570\"\u003e\n\u003ch2 data-section-id=\"1dzykui\" data-start=\"572\" data-end=\"595\"\u003eBANGGAI CARDINALFISH\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"597\" data-end=\"928\"\u003eThe \u003cstrong data-start=\"601\" data-end=\"625\"\u003eBanggai Cardinalfish\u003c\/strong\u003e (\u003cem data-start=\"627\" data-end=\"648\"\u003ePterapogon kauderni\u003c\/em\u003e), also known as \u003cstrong data-start=\"665\" data-end=\"691\"\u003eKaudern’s Cardinalfish\u003c\/strong\u003e, is a striking reef-safe fish known for its silver body, bold black vertical stripes, white spots, and long elegant fins. It has that dramatic “floating chandelier with trust issues” look, which somehow works beautifully in a reef tank.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"930\" data-end=\"1339\"\u003eBanggai Cardinalfish are peaceful, slow-moving fish that usually stay visible in the middle areas of the aquarium. They make excellent additions to reef tanks because they generally ignore corals, invertebrates, and most peaceful tank mates. They are also one of the most recognizable cardinalfish in the hobby, partly because they look fancy without acting like they own the entire ocean. A rare achievement.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"1341\" data-end=\"1793\"\u003eThis species is often available as \u003cstrong data-start=\"1376\" data-end=\"1392\"\u003ecaptive-bred\u003c\/strong\u003e, which is strongly preferred when possible. Wild Banggai Cardinalfish have a very restricted natural range in Indonesia and are listed as threatened under the U.S. Endangered Species Act, with ornamental harvest and habitat loss identified as major threats. Captive-bred specimens help reduce pressure on wild populations and usually adapt well to aquarium life. \u003cspan class=\"\" data-state=\"closed\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"1795\" data-end=\"1940\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"1795\" data-end=\"1804\"\u003eNote:\u003c\/strong\u003e Image is a representation of what to expect. The fish you receive may vary slightly in size, color, fin length, and overall appearance.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr data-start=\"1942\" data-end=\"1945\"\u003e\n\u003ch1 data-section-id=\"82rpn1\" data-start=\"1947\" data-end=\"1970\"\u003eAQUARIUM REQUIREMENTS\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003ch2 data-section-id=\"16vtdl3\" data-start=\"1972\" data-end=\"1988\"\u003eAQUARIUM SIZE\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"1990\" data-end=\"2396\"\u003eA minimum tank size of \u003cstrong data-start=\"2013\" data-end=\"2037\"\u003e30 gallons or larger\u003c\/strong\u003e is recommended for a Banggai Cardinalfish. A single fish or compatible pair can do well in this size, while larger tanks are better for groups or community setups. Some care guides suggest \u003cstrong data-start=\"2227\" data-end=\"2244\"\u003e20-30 gallons\u003c\/strong\u003e for a single Banggai or pair, with \u003cstrong data-start=\"2280\" data-end=\"2304\"\u003e50 gallons or larger\u003c\/strong\u003e being better for groups to reduce territorial issues. \u003cspan class=\"\" data-state=\"closed\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2 data-section-id=\"1xl8pto\" data-start=\"2398\" data-end=\"2424\"\u003eHABITAT RECOMMENDATIONS\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"2426\" data-end=\"2549\"\u003eBanggai Cardinalfish do best in peaceful aquariums with stable water quality, gentle swimming areas, and places to retreat.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"2551\" data-end=\"2761\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"2551\" data-end=\"2567\"\u003eAquascaping:\u003c\/strong\u003e Provide live rock, caves, ledges, and open swimming areas. They often hover in place rather than constantly cruising the tank, because apparently cardio is optional when you look this dramatic.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"2763\" data-end=\"2862\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"2763\" data-end=\"2777\"\u003eSubstrate:\u003c\/strong\u003e Sand or fine aragonite works well and helps create a natural reef-style environment.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"2864\" data-end=\"2965\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"2864\" data-end=\"2877\"\u003eRockwork:\u003c\/strong\u003e Live rock gives them shelter and helps reduce stress, especially when newly introduced.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"2967\" data-end=\"3150\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"2967\" data-end=\"2979\"\u003eShelter:\u003c\/strong\u003e In the wild, Banggai Cardinalfish are often associated with urchins, anemones, and branching shelter. In aquariums, rockwork and peaceful surroundings are usually enough.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"3152\" data-end=\"3335\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"3152\" data-end=\"3167\"\u003eTank Cover:\u003c\/strong\u003e A tight-fitting lid is recommended. They are not the worst jumpers in the hobby, but “not the worst” is not exactly a legal defense when the fish becomes carpet decor.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr data-start=\"3337\" data-end=\"3340\"\u003e\n\u003ch1 data-section-id=\"1obglah\" data-start=\"3342\" data-end=\"3360\"\u003eWATER PARAMETERS\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"3362\" data-end=\"3584\"\u003eBanggai Cardinalfish are generally hardy once established, but they should still be kept in clean, stable marine conditions. The ocean may be huge, but your aquarium is a glass box with a power strip, so stability matters.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"3586\" data-end=\"4047\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"3586\" data-end=\"3602\"\u003eTemperature:\u003c\/strong\u003e 72-78°F\u003cbr data-start=\"3610\" data-end=\"3613\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"3613\" data-end=\"3626\"\u003epH Level:\u003c\/strong\u003e 8.1-8.4\u003cbr data-start=\"3634\" data-end=\"3637\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"3637\" data-end=\"3650\"\u003eSalinity:\u003c\/strong\u003e 1.020-1.025 specific gravity\u003cbr data-start=\"3679\" data-end=\"3682\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"3682\" data-end=\"3697\"\u003eAlkalinity:\u003c\/strong\u003e 8-12 dKH\u003cbr data-start=\"3706\" data-end=\"3709\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"3709\" data-end=\"3743\"\u003eAmmonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate:\u003c\/strong\u003e Ammonia and nitrite should remain undetectable. Nitrate should be kept as low as reasonably possible, ideally below 20 ppm.\u003cbr data-start=\"3867\" data-end=\"3870\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"3870\" data-end=\"3885\"\u003eWater Flow:\u003c\/strong\u003e Low to moderate flow is ideal. They are not strong, constant swimmers, so avoid blasting them directly with excessive flow. \u003cspan class=\"\" data-state=\"closed\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr data-start=\"4049\" data-end=\"4052\"\u003e\n\u003ch1 data-section-id=\"1htcpsq\" data-start=\"4054\" data-end=\"4060\"\u003eDIET\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"4062\" data-end=\"4288\"\u003eBanggai Cardinalfish are \u003cstrong data-start=\"4087\" data-end=\"4101\"\u003ecarnivores\u003c\/strong\u003e and should be offered a varied diet of small meaty marine foods. In aquariums, they usually respond well to frozen foods and may learn to accept high-quality pellets or flakes over time.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2 data-section-id=\"j8hkph\" data-start=\"4290\" data-end=\"4305\"\u003ePRIMARY DIET\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"4307\" data-end=\"4457\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"4307\" data-end=\"4323\"\u003eFrozen Food:\u003c\/strong\u003e Offer mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, finely chopped krill, marine carnivore blends, and other appropriately sized frozen foods.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"4459\" data-end=\"4733\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"4459\" data-end=\"4477\"\u003eShop Favorite:\u003c\/strong\u003e Our favorite food to offer is \u003cstrong data-start=\"4508\" data-end=\"4530\"\u003eReef Frenzy by LRS\u003c\/strong\u003e because it provides a strong variety of marine ingredients and usually gets a great feeding response. Few things restore faith in civilization like a cardinalfish actually eating what you bought for it.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"4735\" data-end=\"4872\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"4735\" data-end=\"4754\"\u003ePrepared Foods:\u003c\/strong\u003e High-quality marine pellets or flakes can be offered once the fish is eating reliably. Smaller pellet sizes are best.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"4874\" data-end=\"4989\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"4874\" data-end=\"4897\"\u003eSupplemental Foods:\u003c\/strong\u003e Copepods, amphipods, and other small meaty foods can help support natural feeding behavior.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2 data-section-id=\"jowmzn\" data-start=\"4991\" data-end=\"5011\"\u003eFEEDING FREQUENCY\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"5013\" data-end=\"5232\"\u003eFeed small amounts \u003cstrong data-start=\"5032\" data-end=\"5053\"\u003e1-2 times per day\u003c\/strong\u003e. Since Banggai Cardinalfish are slower, deliberate feeders, make sure faster tank mates are not stealing all the food before they get enough. Wrasses, naturally, have no manners.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr data-start=\"5234\" data-end=\"5237\"\u003e\n\u003ch1 data-section-id=\"1gpoq14\" data-start=\"5239\" data-end=\"5254\"\u003eCOMPATIBILITY\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"5256\" data-end=\"5494\"\u003eBanggai Cardinalfish are peaceful community fish and are excellent candidates for reef aquariums. They usually do best with calm to moderately active tank mates that will not bully them or outcompete them too aggressively at feeding time.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2 data-section-id=\"tzqlcm\" data-start=\"5496\" data-end=\"5516\"\u003eCOMMON TANK MATES\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"5518\" data-end=\"5663\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"5518\" data-end=\"5527\"\u003eFish:\u003c\/strong\u003e Clownfish, gobies, blennies, peaceful wrasses, firefish, dwarf angelfish, tangs in larger aquariums, and other peaceful community fish.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"5665\" data-end=\"5825\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"5665\" data-end=\"5675\"\u003eAvoid:\u003c\/strong\u003e Large predatory fish, aggressive damsels, large hawkfish, triggers, groupers, lionfish, and any fish large enough to view them as a decorative snack.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"5827\" data-end=\"5944\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"5827\" data-end=\"5845\"\u003eInvertebrates:\u003c\/strong\u003e Safe with most cleaner shrimp, hermit crabs, snails, urchins, and other common reef invertebrates.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"5946\" data-end=\"6138\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"5946\" data-end=\"5956\"\u003eCoral:\u003c\/strong\u003e Banggai Cardinalfish are considered \u003cstrong data-start=\"5993\" data-end=\"6006\"\u003ereef-safe\u003c\/strong\u003e and should not bother soft corals, LPS, SPS, zoanthids, mushrooms, anemones, or clam mantles. \u003cspan class=\"\" data-state=\"closed\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr data-start=\"6140\" data-end=\"6143\"\u003e\n\u003ch1 data-section-id=\"1tuscsk\" data-start=\"6145\" data-end=\"6163\"\u003eBEHAVIORAL NOTES\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"6165\" data-end=\"6297\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"6165\" data-end=\"6181\"\u003eTemperament:\u003c\/strong\u003e Peaceful overall, but adults may become territorial toward other Banggai Cardinalfish, especially in smaller tanks.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"6299\" data-end=\"6540\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"6299\" data-end=\"6317\"\u003eGroup Keeping:\u003c\/strong\u003e Juveniles may tolerate each other in groups, but adults often pair off or develop aggression toward extra individuals. A single fish or bonded pair is usually the safest long-term setup unless the aquarium is large enough.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"6542\" data-end=\"6832\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"6542\" data-end=\"6569\"\u003eCaptive-Bred Preferred:\u003c\/strong\u003e Captive-bred Banggai Cardinalfish are strongly recommended when available due to the species’ conservation concerns and restricted wild range. NOAA lists the species at up to \u003cstrong data-start=\"6745\" data-end=\"6759\"\u003e3.4 inches\u003c\/strong\u003e with a lifespan up to \u003cstrong data-start=\"6782\" data-end=\"6793\"\u003e5 years\u003c\/strong\u003e. \u003cspan class=\"\" data-state=\"closed\"\u003e\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"6834\" data-end=\"7027\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"6834\" data-end=\"6856\"\u003eBreeding Behavior:\u003c\/strong\u003e Males are mouthbrooders, meaning they carry eggs and developing fry in their mouth. This is weird, impressive, and frankly more parenting effort than some mammals manage.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"7029\" data-end=\"7125\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"7029\" data-end=\"7048\"\u003eActivity Level:\u003c\/strong\u003e Usually slow-moving and visible, often hovering in one area of the aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"7127\" data-end=\"7228\"\u003e\u003cstrong data-start=\"7127\" data-end=\"7139\"\u003eJumping:\u003c\/strong\u003e A tight-fitting lid is recommended. Fish remain committed to making avoidable decisions.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003chr data-start=\"7230\" data-end=\"7233\"\u003e\n\u003ch1 data-section-id=\"31mpa1\" data-start=\"7235\" data-end=\"7256\"\u003eACCLIMATION PROCESS\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"7258\" data-end=\"7387\"\u003eThis acclimation method helps reduce stress by gradually introducing the fish to your aquarium’s temperature and water chemistry.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2 data-section-id=\"1x3zjfk\" data-start=\"7389\" data-end=\"7420\"\u003e1. TURN OFF THE LIGHTS \u0026amp; ATO\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"7422\" data-end=\"7543\"\u003eTurn off aquarium lights to reduce stress. If you have an Auto Top Off system, switch it off before starting acclimation.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2 data-section-id=\"1m48jbo\" data-start=\"7545\" data-end=\"7564\"\u003e2. FLOAT THE BAG\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"7566\" data-end=\"7687\"\u003eFloat the sealed bag in the aquarium for \u003cstrong data-start=\"7607\" data-end=\"7624\"\u003e15-20 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e to allow the temperature in the bag to equalize with the tank.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2 data-section-id=\"pkuw25\" data-start=\"7689\" data-end=\"7726\"\u003e3. OPEN BAG, ADD FISH TO CONTAINER\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"7728\" data-end=\"7825\"\u003eCarefully open the bag and transfer the fish and shipping water into a clean bucket or container.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2 data-section-id=\"1bsy6o5\" data-start=\"7827\" data-end=\"7859\"\u003e4. ACCLIMATE USING TANK WATER\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"7861\" data-end=\"7943\"\u003eAdd \u003cstrong data-start=\"7865\" data-end=\"7890\"\u003e1\/4 cup of tank water\u003c\/strong\u003e to the container every \u003cstrong data-start=\"7914\" data-end=\"7942\"\u003e5 minutes for 40 minutes\u003c\/strong\u003e.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2 data-section-id=\"zqkrr1\" data-start=\"7945\" data-end=\"7976\"\u003e5. TRANSFER FISH TO AQUARIUM\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"7978\" data-end=\"8161\"\u003eOnce acclimation is complete, use a net or specimen container to gently transfer the fish into the aquarium. Discard the shipping water. Do not pour shipping water into your aquarium.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2 data-section-id=\"g414va\" data-start=\"8163\" data-end=\"8203\"\u003e6. REFILL THE AQUARIUM WITH SALTWATER\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp data-start=\"8205\" data-end=\"8297\" data-is-last-node=\"\" data-is-only-node=\"\"\u003eYou may need to replace the saltwater removed during acclimation with fresh mixed saltwater.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003cdiv class=\"mt-3 w-full empty:hidden\"\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/section\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003c\/div\u003e","brand":"Summit City Coral","offers":[{"title":"Aquacultured","offer_id":52259772596507,"sku":null,"price":28.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0246\/5100\/5999\/files\/92217335-959E-4A3D-96A6-4261BD422F1D.jpg?v=1779800645"},{"product_id":"yellowfin-tang","title":"Yellowfin Tang","description":"","brand":"Summit City Coral","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48037109924123,"sku":null,"price":80.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0246\/5100\/5999\/files\/23794D2C-9B1B-46F3-9ED7-74736153D067.jpg?v=1710613952"},{"product_id":"green-bird-wrasse","title":"Green Bird Wrasse","description":"","brand":"Summit City Coral","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48037562679579,"sku":null,"price":195.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}]},{"product_id":"zebra-angelfish","title":"Zebra Angelfish","description":"","brand":"Summit City Coral","offers":[{"title":"Male","offer_id":48037564907803,"sku":null,"price":500.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Female","offer_id":48037564940571,"sku":null,"price":250.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}]},{"product_id":"yellow-mimic-chocolate-tang","title":"Chocolate (Mimic) Tang","description":"\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eQUICK STATS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCare Level:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Moderate\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eDiet:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Herbivore \/ Omnivore\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTemperament:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Peaceful to Semi-Aggressive\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eReef-Safe:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Yes\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eVenomous\/Toxic:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e No\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eApproximate Purchase Size:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 2-4\"\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eApproximate Max Size:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Around 8-10\"\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eRecommended Tank Size:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 125 Gallons or Larger\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCHOCOLATE TANG\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThe \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eChocolate Tang\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e (\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAcanthurus pyroferus\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cspan\u003e), also known as the \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMimic Tang\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e or \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eChocolate Surgeonfish\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e, is a unique and underrated tang known for its changing coloration as it matures. Juveniles often mimic dwarf angelfish in appearance, while adults develop a more chocolate-brown to tan body with subtle yellow edging and an orange marking near the gill area.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eChocolate Tangs are active swimmers and steady grazers that spend much of their day cruising through the aquarium and picking at algae on rockwork. They are generally peaceful compared to some tang species, but they can become territorial, especially toward other tangs, surgeonfish, or similarly shaped algae grazers.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThis species is considered \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ereef-safe\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e and should not bother corals or most invertebrates. Its main role in a reef aquarium is grazing algae and adding constant movement. So yes, it is useful, attractive, and slightly less dramatic than some tangs, which means the bar is buried somewhere under the sandbed.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eNote:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Image is a representation of what to expect. The fish you receive may vary slightly in size, color, markings, and overall appearance.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAQUARIUM REQUIREMENTS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAQUARIUM SIZE\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eA minimum tank size of \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e125 gallons or larger\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e is recommended for a Chocolate Tang. This species can reach around \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e8-10 inches\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e and needs plenty of swimming room to stay healthy long term.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eJuveniles are often sold smaller, but they should not be planned around as if they will politely remain pocket-sized. They grow, they swim constantly, and they produce waste like any self-respecting tang with a digestive system and no shame.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eHABITAT RECOMMENDATIONS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eChocolate Tangs do best in mature aquariums with open swimming space, stable rockwork, and plenty of grazing opportunities.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAquascaping:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Provide open swimming room along with stable rock structures for grazing, shelter, and territory. Avoid creating a cramped aquascape that limits swimming space.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSubstrate:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Sand or fine aragonite works well and helps create a natural reef-style environment.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eRockwork:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Live rock is strongly recommended. It provides grazing surfaces, hiding places, and biological filtration.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTank Maturity:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e A mature aquarium is preferred, especially one with natural algae and biofilm growth. Chocolate Tangs benefit from regular grazing opportunities throughout the day.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTank Cover:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e A tight-fitting lid is recommended. Tangs are not the most famous jumpers, but large startled fish are impressively committed to bad decisions.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWATER PARAMETERS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eChocolate Tangs are generally hardy once established, but they still need clean, stable marine conditions. “Tang” does not mean “immune to water quality problems,” despite what the internet occasionally tries to manifest through sheer confidence.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTemperature:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 74-80°F\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003epH Level:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 8.1-8.4\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSalinity:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 1.020-1.026 specific gravity\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAmmonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Ammonia and nitrite should remain undetectable. Nitrate should be kept as low as reasonably possible, ideally below 20 ppm.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWater Flow:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Moderate to strong water movement is ideal. Provide good oxygenation, strong filtration, and enough flow to move waste toward filtration while still allowing the fish comfortable swimming space.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eDIET\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eChocolate Tangs are primarily \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eherbivorous grazers\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e, though they will accept a variety of omnivore foods in the aquarium. A diet rich in algae-based nutrition is important for maintaining color, body weight, immune health, and long-term success.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePRIMARY DIET\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFrozen Food:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Offer algae-rich frozen foods, mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, marine blends, and other high-quality frozen foods. We at Summit City Coral prefer frozen foods such as \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eLRS Herbivore Frenzy\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e and \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePE Mysis\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePrepared Herbivore Foods:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e High-quality herbivore pellets, marine algae pellets, spirulina flakes, and omnivore blends can help provide a balanced diet.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAlgae-Based Foods:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Nori, seaweed sheets, spirulina, herbivore blends, and algae wafers should be offered regularly. Clip seaweed sheets to the glass or rockwork so the tang can graze naturally.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eNatural Grazing:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Established live rock with film algae and biofilm can help support natural feeding behavior. This does not mean the tang should be expected to fix an algae problem alone, because fish are livestock, not unpaid employees with tiny scalpels.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFEEDING FREQUENCY\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFeed small amounts \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e1-2 times per day\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e, with algae-based foods offered frequently. Tangs do best when they can graze throughout the day, so regular access to seaweed or algae-based foods is strongly recommended.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCOMPATIBILITY\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eChocolate Tangs are generally peaceful to semi-aggressive and can work well in large community reef aquariums. They may become territorial toward other tangs, especially other \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAcanthurus\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e species or similarly shaped algae grazers.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCOMMON TANK MATES\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFish:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Clownfish, cardinalfish, wrasses, gobies, blennies, dwarf angelfish, rabbitfish, foxfaces, larger peaceful fish, and other community reef fish.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAvoid:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Other tangs or surgeonfish in smaller aquariums unless the tank is large enough and introductions are carefully managed. Avoid aggressive fish that may harass or stress the tang, as well as overly timid fish that may be outcompeted.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eInvertebrates:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Usually safe with cleaner shrimp, hermit crabs, snails, urchins, and common cleanup crew animals.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCoral:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Chocolate Tangs are considered \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ereef-safe\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e and should not bother soft corals, LPS, SPS, zoanthids, mushrooms, clams, or anemones.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eBEHAVIORAL NOTES\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTemperament:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Generally peaceful to semi-aggressive. May become territorial once established, especially toward other tangs.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eJuvenile Mimicry:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Juveniles often mimic dwarf angelfish, which helps them blend in on the reef. Adults develop a more chocolate-brown\/tan surgeonfish appearance.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAlgae Grazing:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Excellent grazer for film algae and soft algae growth. Still requires regular feeding and should not be used as the entire algae-control plan.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eReef Compatibility:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Excellent for reef tanks. They generally ignore coral and invertebrates.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSwimming Style:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Active swimmer that needs open space and should not be cramped into undersized aquariums.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTang Scalpel:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Like other surgeonfish, Chocolate Tangs have a sharp scalpel-like spine near the tail used for defense. Use caution when catching, transferring, or working around the fish. It is not venomous, just impressively rude if mishandled.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTerritoriality:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e May show aggression toward other tangs or similarly shaped fish, especially in smaller tanks.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eJumping:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e A tight-fitting lid is recommended. Large fish can still make sudden, athletic mistakes.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eACCLIMATION PROCESS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThis acclimation method helps reduce stress by gradually introducing the fish to your aquarium’s temperature and water chemistry.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e1. TURN OFF THE LIGHTS \u0026amp; ATO\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTurn off aquarium lights to reduce stress. If you have an Auto Top Off system, switch it off before starting acclimation.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e2. FLOAT THE BAG\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFloat the sealed bag in the aquarium for \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e15-20 minutes\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e to allow the temperature in the bag to equalize with the tank.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e3. OPEN BAG, ADD FISH TO CONTAINER\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCarefully open the bag and transfer the fish and shipping water into a clean bucket or container.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e4. ACCLIMATE USING TANK WATER\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAdd \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e1\/4 cup of tank water\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e to the container every \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e5 minutes for 40 minutes\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e5. TRANSFER FISH TO AQUARIUM\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eOnce acclimation is complete, gently transfer the fish into the aquarium using a net or specimen container. Use caution near the tail spine when handling tangs. Discard the shipping water. Do not pour shipping water into your aquarium.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e6. REFILL THE AQUARIUM WITH SALTWATER\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eYou may need to replace the saltwater removed during acclimation with fresh mixed saltwater.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Summit City Coral","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48832748945691,"sku":"chocolatetang","price":180.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0246\/5100\/5999\/files\/ABB186C4-C2F0-425A-ADB8-1A79E4A5DBAD.jpg?v=1769227626"},{"product_id":"flame-back-pygmy-angelfish","title":"Flameback Pygmy Angelfish","description":"","brand":"Summit City Coral","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48037570248987,"sku":null,"price":79.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}]},{"product_id":"longnose-hawkfish","title":"Longnose Hawkfish","description":"","brand":"Summit City Coral","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48037572477211,"sku":null,"price":79.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0246\/5100\/5999\/files\/IMG_8430.jpg?v=1777211589"},{"product_id":"blue-eye-kole-tang","title":"Whitetail Yellow Eye Kole Tang","description":"","brand":"Summit City Coral","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48037575459099,"sku":null,"price":160.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0246\/5100\/5999\/files\/3F61E0F1-4AE0-4D0E-8567-2D4AED9FDEC8.jpg?v=1724251167"},{"product_id":"yellow-flanked-fairy-wrasse","title":"Yellow-Flanked (Blue-Sided) Fairy Wrasse","description":"\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eQUICK STATS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCare Level:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Easy to Moderate\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eDiet:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Carnivore \/ Planktivore\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTemperament:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Peaceful to Mildly Territorial\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eReef-Safe:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Yes\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eVenomous\/Toxic:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e No\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eApproximate Purchase Size:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 2-4\"\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eApproximate Max Size:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Around 4-5\"\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eRecommended Tank Size:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 55-90 Gallons or Larger\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eYELLOW-FLANKED FAIRY WRASSE\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThe \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eYellow-Flanked Fairy Wrasse\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e (\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCirrhilabrus cyanopleura\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cspan\u003e complex), also commonly sold as the \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eBlue-Sided Fairy Wrasse\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e, is a colorful reef-safe wrasse known for its active swimming behavior, bright male coloration, and peaceful community-tank personality. Males may show red, pink, blue, purple, yellow, orange, or green tones depending on mood, maturity, collection location, and lighting. Basically, the fish is a living paint sample with fins.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eYellow-Flanked Fairy Wrasses are active planktivores that spend much of the day swimming in the water column and picking food from the current. They are excellent additions to reef aquariums because they bring movement, color, and activity without bothering corals. They do need swimming space, stable water quality, and a secure lid, because fairy wrasses are beautiful little escape artists with no respect for gravity.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThis species is considered \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ereef-safe\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e and should not bother soft corals, LPS, SPS, zoanthids, mushrooms, clams, or anemones. They may occasionally eat tiny crustaceans or small ornamental microfauna, but they are not typically a threat to cleaner shrimp, snails, hermit crabs, or common reef invertebrates. Reef-safe, yes. Microfauna-safe, less guaranteed, because apparently snacks are snacks.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eNote:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Image is a representation of what to expect. The fish you receive may vary slightly in size, color, sex, maturity, markings, and overall appearance.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAQUARIUM REQUIREMENTS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAQUARIUM SIZE\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eA minimum tank size of \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e55 gallons or larger\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e is recommended for a Yellow-Flanked Fairy Wrasse, with \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e90 gallons or larger preferred\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e for active community reef aquariums, male specimens, or mixed wrasse systems.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThis species is an active swimmer and needs open water space along with rockwork for security. Tank length matters more than height. A long aquarium with open swimming lanes is much better than a tall narrow tank pretending vertical water counts as a racetrack. Fish remain tragically uninterested in our spreadsheet logic.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eHABITAT RECOMMENDATIONS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eYellow-Flanked Fairy Wrasses do best in established aquariums with open swimming room, live rock, caves, shaded areas, and peaceful tank mates.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAquascaping:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Provide open swimming room in the front and upper areas of the aquarium along with rockwork, caves, and crevices for shelter.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSubstrate:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Sand, fine aragonite, crushed coral, or bare-bottom systems can all work. Fairy wrasses do not bury in the sand to sleep like many \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan\u003eHalichoeres\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cspan\u003e wrasses.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eRockwork:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Live rock is strongly recommended. It provides shelter, territory, biological filtration, and places for the wrasse to retreat when startled or resting.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTank Maturity:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e A mature aquarium is preferred. Established systems provide better stability and natural microfauna, though this species usually adapts well to frozen and prepared foods.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eLighting:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Moderate reef lighting is fine, but shaded rockwork and caves should be available. Newly introduced wrasses may hide at first and appreciate lower-stress areas.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTank Cover:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e A tight-fitting lid is mandatory. Fairy wrasses are notorious jumpers and can escape through small gaps. The floor remains undefeated, smug, and weirdly committed to collecting expensive fish.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWATER PARAMETERS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eYellow-Flanked Fairy Wrasses are generally hardy once established, but they still need clean, stable marine conditions. “Hardy wrasse” does not mean “compatible with mystery water,” because chemistry remains the hobby’s least forgiving little bureaucrat.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTemperature:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 72-78°F\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003epH Level:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 8.1-8.4\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSalinity:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 1.020-1.026 specific gravity\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAmmonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Ammonia and nitrite should remain undetectable. Nitrate should be kept as low as reasonably possible, ideally below 20 ppm.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWater Flow:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Moderate water movement is ideal. Provide enough flow to keep the aquarium oxygenated, move food through the water column, and support active swimming, while still allowing calmer areas near rockwork for resting.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eDIET\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eYellow-Flanked Fairy Wrasses are \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ecarnivorous planktivores\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e that naturally feed on small crustaceans, zooplankton, copepods, and other tiny meaty foods in the water column. In aquariums, they usually adapt well to frozen and prepared foods.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePRIMARY DIET\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFrozen Food:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Offer mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, cyclops, calanus, marine blends, finely chopped seafood, and other small meaty frozen foods. We at Summit City Coral prefer frozen foods such as \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eLRS Reef Frenzy\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e and \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePE Mysis\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePrepared Foods:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e High-quality marine pellets, flakes, carnivore pellets, and small omnivore foods can help provide balanced nutrition. Smaller food sizes are best.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eLive Foods:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Copepods, amphipods, live brine shrimp, blackworms, and other small live foods can help encourage feeding, especially in newly introduced or hesitant individuals.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSmall Meaty Foods:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Finely chopped clam, shrimp, krill, and other marine-based foods can be offered in rotation. Avoid oversized foods unless you enjoy watching a wrasse inspect dinner like it has been handed a furniture assembly manual.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFEEDING FREQUENCY\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFeed small amounts \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e1-2 times per day\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e, or \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e2-3 times per day\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e for new, smaller, or especially active individuals. Fairy wrasses are active fish with fast metabolisms, so consistent feeding helps maintain weight, color, and energy.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCOMPATIBILITY\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eYellow-Flanked Fairy Wrasses are generally peaceful and work well in reef aquariums with other peaceful to semi-peaceful fish. They are usually safe with coral and most invertebrates, but should be protected from aggressive or overly dominant tank mates.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCOMMON TANK MATES\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFish:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Clownfish, cardinalfish, gobies, blennies, firefish, chromis, peaceful wrasses, dwarf angelfish, tangs in larger aquariums, rabbitfish, foxfaces, and other peaceful to semi-peaceful community fish.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAvoid:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Aggressive dottybacks, aggressive damsels, large predatory fish, large triggers, groupers, lionfish, aggressive wrasses, and any fish likely to bully or eat them.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eOther Wrasses:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Can often be kept with other peaceful fairy wrasses or flasher wrasses in larger aquariums, especially when introduced carefully. Avoid mixing with overly aggressive wrasses or similar males in undersized tanks.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSame Species:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e One male may be kept with females in larger aquariums if introduced carefully. Multiple males may fight, especially in smaller systems.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eInvertebrates:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Usually safe with cleaner shrimp, hermit crabs, snails, urchins, and most common reef invertebrates. Very tiny crustaceans, pods, and microfauna may be eaten.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCoral:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Yellow-Flanked Fairy Wrasses are considered \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ereef-safe\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e and should not bother soft corals, LPS, SPS, zoanthids, mushrooms, clams, or anemones.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eBEHAVIORAL NOTES\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTemperament:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Peaceful to mildly territorial. Usually calm with most community fish but may display toward other wrasses.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eActivity Level:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Very active swimmer that spends much of the day moving through open water and around rockwork.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePlanktivore Behavior:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Feeds from the water column and often picks small foods from the current.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eReef Compatibility:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Excellent for reef tanks. They generally ignore coral and most invertebrates.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSleeping Behavior:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Fairy wrasses typically sleep in rockwork or mucus cocoons rather than burying in sand.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMale Coloration:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Males are usually larger and more colorful than females. Color can intensify during display, courtship, stress, or social interactions.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFemale \/ Juvenile Coloration:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Females and juveniles may show softer pink, orange, red, or yellow coloration and may look less intense than terminal males.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWrasse Social Behavior:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e May flash, display, or posture toward other wrasses. This is normal unless it turns into constant chasing or stress.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eJumping:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e A tight-fitting lid is mandatory. Fairy wrasses can and will find small openings with the determination of a tiny aquatic fugitive.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAcclimation Sensitivity:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Like many wrasses, new arrivals may hide after introduction. Give them time, low stress, and peaceful tank mates while they settle in.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTank Size Reality:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Smaller specimens may appear manageable in smaller tanks, but active fairy wrasses benefit from more swimming room than their body size suggests. Tiny fish, annoying as this is, still have behavior.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eACCLIMATION PROCESS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThis acclimation method helps reduce stress by gradually introducing the fish to your aquarium’s temperature and water chemistry.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e1. TURN OFF THE LIGHTS \u0026amp; ATO\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTurn off aquarium lights to reduce stress. If you have an Auto Top Off system, switch it off before starting acclimation.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e2. FLOAT THE BAG\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFloat the sealed bag in the aquarium for \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e15-20 minutes\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e to allow the temperature in the bag to equalize with the tank.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e3. OPEN BAG, ADD FISH TO CONTAINER\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCarefully open the bag and transfer the fish and shipping water into a clean bucket or container.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e4. ACCLIMATE USING TANK WATER\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAdd \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e1\/4 cup of tank water\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e to the container every \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e5 minutes for 40 minutes\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e5. TRANSFER FISH TO AQUARIUM\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eOnce acclimation is complete, gently transfer the fish into the aquarium using a net or specimen container. Wrasses can jump suddenly when startled, so keep the transfer controlled and cover the container if needed. Discard the shipping water. Do not pour shipping water into your aquarium.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e6. REFILL THE AQUARIUM WITH SALTWATER\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eYou may need to replace the saltwater removed during acclimation with fresh mixed saltwater.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Summit City Coral","offers":[{"title":"Terminal Male","offer_id":52296443363611,"sku":null,"price":60.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true},{"title":"Female","offer_id":52400516563227,"sku":null,"price":54.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0246\/5100\/5999\/files\/IMG_0593.jpg?v=1778185057"},{"product_id":"banded-pipefish","title":"Banded Pipefish","description":"\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eQUICK STATS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCare Level:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Expert \/ Advanced\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFish Type:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Pipefish \/ Syngnathid\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eScientific Name:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan\u003eDoryrhamphus dactyliophorus\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \/ \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan\u003eDunckerocampus dactyliophorus\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTemperament:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Peaceful\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eReef Safe:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Yes, With Caution\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eDiet:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Carnivore \/ Microcrustacean Feeder\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAdult Size:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Around 7-8\"\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMinimum Aquarium Size:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 50 Gallons Recommended\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSwimming Level:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Rockwork, Caves, Crevices, and Lower-Flow Areas\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eOrigin:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Indo-Pacific Reef and Lagoon Habitats\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eBANDED PIPEFISH\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThe \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eBanded Pipefish\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e, also called the \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eRinged Pipefish\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e, is a peaceful marine pipefish known for its long slender body, bold red, orange, black, white, or cream banding, and narrow tubular snout. It is closely related to seahorses and shares the same charmingly inconvenient feeding style: tiny mouth, slow feeding, and a deep personal commitment to making normal community tanks more complicated.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThis species is scientifically listed as \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eDoryrhamphus dactyliophorus\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e and may also appear in the aquarium trade as \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eDunckerocampus dactyliophorus\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e. The body is long and rigid, with a small mouth designed for picking tiny prey from rockwork, caves, macroalgae, and the water column.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eBanded Pipefish are peaceful, delicate, and best suited for mature aquariums with calm tankmates, abundant microfauna, low-to-moderate flow areas, and frequent feedings. They are not aggressive feeders and should not be expected to compete with tangs, wrasses, damsels, anthias, or other high-speed food thieves. Putting one in that kind of tank is basically opening a buffet next to a group of linebackers and hoping the shy librarian gets fed.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThis fish is generally \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ereef safe\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e, but it needs careful coral placement. It can be harmed by anemones, strong-stinging corals, large fleshy corals, and aggressive invertebrates. Banded Pipefish are peaceful with corals, but corals are not always peaceful back, because reefs are beautiful and also apparently full of tiny legal disputes.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCaptive-bred or captive-raised Banded Pipefish are strongly preferred when available. They usually adapt better to aquarium life and prepared foods than wild-caught individuals. Wild-caught pipefish can be difficult to feed and may arrive thin or stressed.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eNote:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Image is a representation of what to expect. The fish you receive may vary slightly in size, banding pattern, red or orange intensity, tail coloration, body condition, and overall appearance.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAQUARIUM REQUIREMENTS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAQUARIUM SIZE\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eA minimum aquarium size of \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e50 gallons or larger\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e is recommended for Banded Pipefish. Larger mature aquariums are preferred because they provide more stable water quality, more grazing surfaces, more pod production, and more room for low-flow habitat zones.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThis species does best in a mature aquarium with established rockwork and a healthy population of copepods and other small crustaceans. New sterile tanks are a poor fit. The pipefish is not impressed by clean white rock and optimism. It wants microfauna, hiding places, and a feeding plan that does not involve wishful thinking.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAQUASCAPE RECOMMENDATIONS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eBanded Pipefish need a calm, structured aquascape with plenty of cover and feeding surfaces.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eRockwork:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Provide mature live rock or established reef rock with caves, cracks, ledges, and crevices.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCaves and Overhangs:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e This species naturally uses sheltered areas and will appreciate protected spaces.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMacroalgae:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Macroalgae, gorgonians, and branching structures can provide cover and foraging areas.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eLow-Flow Zones:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Include areas with gentle flow where the pipefish can hover, perch, and hunt without fighting turbulence.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eOpen Sand Areas:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Open areas are fine, but the fish should have easy access to shelter.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePod Habitat:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Rubble zones, refugiums, macroalgae beds, and mature rockwork help support copepod populations.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSafe Intakes:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Cover or guard pump intakes, overflows, and strong suction points. Pipefish are slow swimmers, and reef equipment is apparently always auditioning for a horror movie.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWATER PARAMETERS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eBanded Pipefish need clean, stable marine water conditions. They are sensitive to poor water quality, rapid salinity changes, low oxygen, and prolonged stress.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTemperature:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 74-78°F\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003epH Level:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 8.1-8.4\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSalinity:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 1.024-1.026 specific gravity\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAlkalinity:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 8-12 dKH\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAmmonia:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 0 ppm\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eNitrite:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 0 ppm\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eNitrate:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Ideally under 20 ppm\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePhosphate:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Controlled and stable\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThis fish should be kept in a mature, stable aquarium. Stability matters more than chasing perfect numbers. Sudden swings can lead to stress, appetite loss, disease, or decline.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eBecause pipefish need frequent feeding, filtration must be strong enough to handle regular food input while still allowing gentle flow zones. Naturally, the fish wants both frequent food and pristine water, because marine life was clearly designed by a committee with no concern for your schedule.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eLIGHTING\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eBanded Pipefish do not require intense lighting. Lighting should be chosen around the overall system, corals, macroalgae, and the comfort of the fish.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eLIGHTING RECOMMENDATIONS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eModerate Lighting:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Standard reef lighting is acceptable if shaded areas are available.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eLower-Light Zones:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Provide caves, ledges, overhangs, or macroalgae cover where the fish can retreat.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eConsistent Photoperiod:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e A stable day\/night cycle helps reduce stress.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAvoid Harsh Exposure:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Do not force the fish to live in exposed, brightly lit rockwork with no shelter.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eReef Systems:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e If housed in a reef tank, make sure coral lighting does not eliminate calmer shaded habitat.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eBanded Pipefish are not light-demanding display fish. The lighting drama belongs to the corals, who already have enough theatrical needs to keep several humans financially unstable.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWATER FLOW\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eBanded Pipefish prefer \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003elow to moderate, gentle water movement\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e. They are stronger swimmers than seahorses, but they still do poorly in constant high-energy reef flow.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFLOW RECOMMENDATIONS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eIdeal Flow:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Gentle to moderate, indirect flow.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eLow-Flow Areas:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Provide calm zones for feeding, resting, and hovering.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAvoid Strong Direct Flow:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Strong direct current can exhaust the fish and make feeding difficult.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAvoid Dead Water:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Gentle movement is still needed to maintain oxygen and prevent waste buildup.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFeeding Zones:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Create areas where food stays suspended long enough for the pipefish to feed.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePump Safety:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Use strainers, guards, or covers on strong intakes and wavemakers.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThis is not a fish for a high-flow SPS blender. A Banded Pipefish in that setup is less “natural reef behavior” and more “striped noodle caught in municipal infrastructure.”\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eDIET\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eBanded Pipefish are \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ecarnivorous microcrustacean feeders\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e. Their small tubular mouths are adapted for picking tiny prey such as copepods, amphipods, baby brine shrimp, cyclops, and small mysis.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePRIMARY DIET\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eLive Copepods:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Excellent food source and very helpful for long-term success.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eLive Baby Brine Shrimp:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Useful for new or difficult feeders, especially when enriched.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eEnriched Brine Shrimp:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Adult or baby brine should be enriched with vitamins and fatty acids when used.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSmall Mysis:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Some individuals accept small frozen mysis, especially captive-bred or trained specimens.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCyclops:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Frozen cyclops or similar tiny zooplankton can be useful.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSmall Frozen Foods:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Finely sized marine foods may be accepted if the fish is trained.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePod Production:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e A mature refugium or pod-rich system is strongly beneficial.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFEEDING FREQUENCY\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFeed \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e2-4 times daily\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e in small portions. Banded Pipefish are slow, deliberate feeders and should be observed to make sure they are actually eating.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTarget feeding with a pipette or feeding station may be useful. Feed in a calm area away from fast fish. If all the food is gone in four seconds because the wrasses discovered it, congratulations, you fed the wrasses. The pipefish merely witnessed dinner as a concept.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCOMPATIBILITY\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eBanded Pipefish are peaceful and should be housed with calm, non-aggressive tankmates that will not outcompete them for food.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCOMMON TANK MATES\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eGood Options:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Seahorses, other compatible pipefish, small gobies, firefish, peaceful blennies, small cardinalfish, peaceful dragonets in large pod-rich systems, and other slow calm fish.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eUse Caution:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Clownfish, wrasses, anthias, damsels, dottybacks, hawkfish, fast blennies, and active feeders may outcompete or harass pipefish.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAvoid:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Aggressive fish, territorial fish, large predatory fish, puffers, triggers, large wrasses, groupers, lionfish, eels, and fish that may view pipefish as food.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eOther Pipefish:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Banded Pipefish may do well in pairs or small groups of their own kind if the aquarium is large enough and food availability is strong.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSeahorses:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e They can be compatible with seahorses in a dedicated syngnathid-style system with appropriate flow and feeding.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eReef Compatibility:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Generally reef safe, but the reef must be chosen carefully.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCORAL AND INVERTEBRATE CAUTION\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAvoid Stinging Corals:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Keep away from anemones, torches, hammers, frogspawn, galaxea, large euphyllia colonies, and other strong-stinging corals.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAvoid Large Fleshy Corals:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Large open brains, large scolys, large trachys, and similar corals may pose a risk if the fish rests too close or is weak.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAvoid Aggressive Inverts:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Large crabs, large shrimp, coral banded shrimp, predatory shrimp, and large hermits may injure or stress pipefish.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSafe Inverts:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Small snails, peaceful shrimp, and non-aggressive cleanup crew members are usually safer choices.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eA Banded Pipefish belongs in a peaceful system, not a reef cage match with tentacles. Sadly, many aquariums are basically tentacle politics with pumps.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eBEHAVIORAL NOTES\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTemperament:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Peaceful and shy. Best kept with calm tankmates.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eActivity Level:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Slow, deliberate swimmer. Often hovers around rockwork, caves, ledges, macroalgae, or shaded areas.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFeeding Behavior:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Picks at tiny prey using a narrow tubular snout. Slow feeding is normal.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePairing:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Often does well in pairs or small groups if enough food and space are available.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSocial Behavior:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e May interact peacefully with other syngnathids and calm fish.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eReef Role:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e May pick at small crustaceans and microfauna on rockwork.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePod Dependence:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e A strong copepod population improves success, especially with wild-caught specimens.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCaptive-Bred Advantage:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Captive-bred or captive-raised individuals are usually easier to feed and better adapted to aquarium life.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWild-Caught Challenge:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Wild specimens may require live foods and patient training onto frozen foods.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eStress Signs:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Hiding constantly, rapid breathing, refusal to feed, thin body, faded color, drifting in current, or being unable to perch or hover properly.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eBody Condition:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e The body should not look pinched, sharply thin, or hollow. A skinny pipefish is a serious concern.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFlow Sensitivity:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Too much current can exhaust the fish and make feeding difficult.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eIntake Risk:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Guard intakes and overflows. Slow fish plus suction equals avoidable nonsense.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eNot for Aggressive Community Tanks:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e This species should not be added to a busy reef full of aggressive feeders and then expected to “figure it out.” It will not unionize. It will just starve quietly, because nature is rude.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eHEALTH AND QUARANTINE\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eBanded Pipefish should be quarantined carefully when possible, but quarantine must be designed around their feeding needs. A bare sterile hospital tank with no live food can be dangerous if the fish is not already trained to frozen foods.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCOMMON HEALTH CONCERNS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eStarvation:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e The most common issue. Pipefish must be seen eating consistently.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eShipping Stress:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Can arrive weak, thin, or reluctant to feed.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eExternal Parasites:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Possible with wild-caught fish. Observe closely for flashing, irritation, rapid breathing, or visible spots.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eBacterial Infections:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e May occur after shipping damage or stress.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWeak Swimming:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Drifting, getting stuck against intakes, or being unable to hold position can indicate stress or illness.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThin Body:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e A narrow or pinched body suggests poor feeding or decline.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eQUARANTINE RECOMMENDATIONS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eUse a calm, cycled quarantine system with gentle flow, hiding places, and appropriate foods ready. Live copepods, enriched baby brine shrimp, cyclops, and small frozen foods should be available.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eObserve feeding multiple times per day. A pipefish that is not eating is an urgent problem, not a quirky personality trait. Marine fish are not tiny fasting monks, despite how dramatically they behave after shipping.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eACCLIMATION PROCESS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThis acclimation method helps reduce stress by gradually introducing the fish to your aquarium’s temperature and water chemistry.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e1. PREPARE THE AQUARIUM\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMake sure the aquarium is mature, stable, and peaceful. Have live or frozen small foods ready before the fish arrives.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e2. DIM THE LIGHTS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTurn down aquarium lights before adding the fish. Lower light can help reduce stress during introduction.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e3. FLOAT THE BAG\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFloat the sealed bag in the aquarium for \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e15-20 minutes\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e to equalize temperature.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e4. TRANSFER TO CONTAINER\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eOpen the bag and transfer the fish and shipping water into a clean acclimation container. Do not expose the fish to air longer than necessary.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e5. DRIP OR SLOW ACCLIMATE\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSlowly add small amounts of tank water over \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e30-45 minutes\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e, especially if salinity differs between the shipping water and aquarium.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e6. DISCARD SHIPPING WATER\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTransfer the fish gently with a specimen container when possible. Avoid rough netting. Do not pour shipping water into the aquarium.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e7. INTRODUCE TO A CALM AREA\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAdd the pipefish near rockwork, macroalgae, caves, or a sheltered low-flow area. Keep lights dimmed during introduction.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e8. OFFER FOOD EARLY\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eOffer live copepods, enriched baby brine shrimp, cyclops, or small frozen foods once the fish begins exploring. Target feed gently if needed.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e9. MONITOR CLOSELY\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWatch for feeding response, body condition, breathing rate, harassment, flow struggles, and whether the fish can access food before faster tankmates steal everything. Early monitoring matters, because with pipefish “I haven’t seen it eat yet” is not a cute update. It is the beginning of the problem.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Summit City Coral","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48037600002331,"sku":"bandedpipefish","price":55.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0246\/5100\/5999\/files\/IMG_3403.jpg?v=1753973764"},{"product_id":"melanarus-wrasse","title":"Melanurus Wrasse, SSC","description":"","brand":"Summit City Coral","offers":[{"title":"Male","offer_id":52147756400923,"sku":null,"price":59.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false},{"title":"Female","offer_id":52147757220123,"sku":null,"price":59.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0246\/5100\/5999\/files\/IMG_0542.jpg?v=1777636968"},{"product_id":"multicolor-lubbock-s-fairy-wrasse","title":"Lubbock’s Fairy Wrasse","description":"","brand":"Summit City Coral","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48037620384027,"sku":null,"price":48.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0246\/5100\/5999\/files\/IMG_4504.jpg?v=1757611961"},{"product_id":"exquisite-wrasse","title":"Exquisite Fairy Wrasse, Pair","description":"\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eQUICK STATS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCare Level:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Easy to Moderate\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eDiet:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Carnivore \/ Planktivore\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTemperament:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Peaceful\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eReef-Safe:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Yes\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eVenomous\/Toxic:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e No\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eApproximate Purchase Size:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 2-4\"\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eApproximate Max Size:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Around 5\"\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eRecommended Tank Size:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 75-90 Gallons or Larger\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eEXQUISITE WRASSE\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThe \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eExquisite Wrasse\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e (\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cem\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCirrhilabrus exquisitus\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/em\u003e\u003cspan\u003e), also known as the \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eExquisite Fairy Wrasse\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e, is a colorful and active reef fish known for its bright coloration, constant movement, and peaceful personality. Males are usually more colorful than females and may show green, red, pink, blue, orange, or purple tones depending on collection location, maturity, and mood.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eExquisite Wrasses are open-water swimmers that spend much of the day cruising through the aquarium and picking small foods from the water column. They bring a lot of movement and color to reef aquariums without usually bothering coral or common invertebrates, which is frankly more restraint than many fish manage.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThis species is considered reef-safe and usually works well in peaceful to semi-peaceful community aquariums. Like other fairy wrasses, it does not bury in the sand at night. Instead, it sleeps in a mucus cocoon among rockwork or sheltered areas, because apparently even fish invented weird bedtime rituals before humans made skincare routines complicated.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eNote:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Image is a representation of what to expect. The fish you receive may vary slightly in size, color, markings, sex, maturity, and overall appearance.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAQUARIUM REQUIREMENTS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAQUARIUM SIZE\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eA minimum tank size of \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e75 gallons or larger\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e is recommended for an Exquisite Wrasse, with \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e90 gallons or larger preferred\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e for adult specimens or active community tanks. This species can reach around \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e5 inches\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e and needs open swimming room.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAlthough fairy wrasses are not bulky fish, they are active swimmers and should not be cramped into small aquariums. Larger systems provide more stability, more territory, and more swimming space, which helps reduce stress and aggression.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eHABITAT RECOMMENDATIONS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eExquisite Wrasses do best in established aquariums with open swimming room, stable rockwork, and plenty of hiding areas.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAquascaping:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Provide open swimming space along with live rock, caves, overhangs, and shaded areas. These wrasses like room to cruise but still need places to retreat when startled or sleeping.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSubstrate:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Sand, fine aragonite, crushed coral, or bare-bottom systems can work. Unlike some wrasses, fairy wrasses do not require sand for sleeping.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eRockwork:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Live rock is strongly recommended. It provides shelter, territory, biological filtration, and natural foraging surfaces.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTank Maturity:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e A mature aquarium is preferred. Stable water quality and an established feeding routine help this active fish settle in and maintain good body condition.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTank Cover:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e A tight-fitting lid is absolutely required. Fairy wrasses are expert jumpers, because apparently the top of the aquarium looks like a career path.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWATER PARAMETERS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eExquisite Wrasses are generally hardy once established, but they still need clean, stable marine conditions. “Fairy wrasse” does not mean “immune to chaos,” despite the magical-sounding name doing its best to mislead everyone.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTemperature:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 72-78°F\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003epH Level:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 8.1-8.4\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSalinity:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 1.020-1.026 specific gravity\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAmmonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Ammonia and nitrite should remain undetectable. Nitrate should be kept as low as reasonably possible, ideally below 20 ppm.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWater Flow:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Moderate water movement is ideal. Provide enough flow to keep the aquarium oxygenated and move food through the water column, while still allowing calmer areas near rockwork for resting.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eDIET\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eExquisite Wrasses are \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ecarnivorous planktivores\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e that naturally feed on tiny drifting foods, zooplankton, and small crustaceans. In aquariums, they should be offered a varied diet of small meaty foods and high-quality prepared foods.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePRIMARY DIET\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFrozen Food:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Offer mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, cyclops, marine blends, finely chopped seafood, and other small frozen foods. We at Summit City Coral prefer frozen foods such as \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eLRS Reef Frenzy\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e and \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePE Mysis\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePrepared Foods:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e High-quality marine pellets, flakes, and carnivore or omnivore blends can help provide a balanced diet once the fish is eating reliably. Smaller pellet sizes are best.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eLive Foods:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Copepods, amphipods, live brine shrimp, and other small live foods can help encourage feeding, especially in newly introduced or shy individuals.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSmall Meaty Foods:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Finely chopped marine foods and plankton-sized foods can help support natural feeding behavior. Avoid overly large foods unless you enjoy watching a wrasse spit something out with theatrical disappointment.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFEEDING FREQUENCY\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFeed small amounts \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e1-2 times per day\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e, or \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e2-3 times per day\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e for new, thin, or very active individuals. Fairy wrasses are energetic swimmers and do best with regular feeding rather than one giant meal tossed in like an aquatic buffet incident.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCOMPATIBILITY\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eExquisite Wrasses are peaceful and work well in reef community aquariums. They should be housed with tank mates that will not bully, chase, or severely outcompete them for food.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCOMMON TANK MATES\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFish:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Clownfish, cardinalfish, gobies, blennies, firefish, chromis, tangs, rabbitfish, dwarf angelfish, anthias, and other peaceful to semi-peaceful reef fish.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAvoid:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Very aggressive wrasses, large predatory fish, aggressive dottybacks, aggressive damsels, triggers that may bully them, groupers, lionfish, and any fish likely to harass or eat them.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eOther Wrasses:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Can often be kept with other peaceful fairy or flasher wrasses in larger aquariums, especially when added carefully. Use caution with multiple males or similarly shaped wrasses, as territorial behavior may occur.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eInvertebrates:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Usually safe with cleaner shrimp, hermit crabs, snails, urchins, and most common reef invertebrates. Very tiny ornamental crustaceans may be at some risk, because fish are not tiny-crab preservation societies.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCoral:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Exquisite Wrasses are considered \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ereef-safe\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e and should not bother soft corals, LPS, SPS, zoanthids, mushrooms, clams, or anemones.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eBEHAVIORAL NOTES\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTemperament:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Peaceful overall, though males may show territorial behavior toward similar wrasses.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eActivity Level:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Very active swimmer. Best suited for aquariums with open swimming space.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eColor Variation:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Color can vary significantly based on sex, maturity, mood, and collection location. Males are usually more colorful than females.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSexual Dimorphism:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Males tend to show brighter coloration and more elaborate markings. Females and juveniles are usually more subtle.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eReef Compatibility:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Excellent for reef tanks. They generally ignore corals and most invertebrates.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSleeping Behavior:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Does not require sand to sleep. Fairy wrasses usually rest in rockwork and may produce a mucus cocoon at night.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFeeding Behavior:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Active feeder that usually learns prepared foods well once settled. Make sure it is eating, especially during the first few days after introduction.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eJumping:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e A tight-fitting lid is mandatory. Exquisite Wrasses are extremely jump-prone, because apparently being gorgeous was not enough of a survival disadvantage.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eACCLIMATION PROCESS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThis acclimation method helps reduce stress by gradually introducing the fish to your aquarium’s temperature and water chemistry.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e1. TURN OFF THE LIGHTS \u0026amp; ATO\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTurn off aquarium lights to reduce stress. If you have an Auto Top Off system, switch it off before starting acclimation.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e2. FLOAT THE BAG\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFloat the sealed bag in the aquarium for \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e15-20 minutes\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e to allow the temperature in the bag to equalize with the tank.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e3. OPEN BAG, ADD FISH TO CONTAINER\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCarefully open the bag and transfer the fish and shipping water into a clean bucket or container.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e4. ACCLIMATE USING TANK WATER\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAdd \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e1\/4 cup of tank water\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e to the container every \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e5 minutes for 40 minutes\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e5. TRANSFER FISH TO AQUARIUM\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eOnce acclimation is complete, gently transfer the fish into the aquarium using a net or specimen container. Discard the shipping water. Do not pour shipping water into your aquarium.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e6. REFILL THE AQUARIUM WITH SALTWATER\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eYou may need to replace the saltwater removed during acclimation with fresh mixed saltwater.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Summit City Coral","offers":[{"title":"Short Supply Chain","offer_id":52312801902875,"sku":"exquisitewrassepairssc","price":99.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0246\/5100\/5999\/files\/IMG_0508.jpg?v=1777637829"},{"product_id":"red-lizard-blenny","title":"Red Lizard Blenny","description":"","brand":"Summit City Coral","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48042939121947,"sku":null,"price":38.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}]},{"product_id":"yellow-coris-wrasse","title":"Yellow Coris Wrasse","description":"","brand":"Summit City Coral","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48042952065307,"sku":null,"price":45.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":true}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0246\/5100\/5999\/files\/IMG_5906.jpg?v=1762533331"},{"product_id":"purple-dottyback","title":"Magenta Dottyback","description":"\u003ch2\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eQuick Stats\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cul\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eCare Level:\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003eEasy\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eDiet:\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003eCarnivore\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eTemperament:\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003eSemi-Aggressive\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eReef-Safe:\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003eYes\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eSource:\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003eCaptive Bred\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eApproximate Purchase Size:\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e1.25-1.5\"\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eApproximate Max Size:\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e3\"\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003cli\u003e\n\u003cstrong\u003eRecommended Tank Size:\u003cspan\u003e \u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e20 Gallons or Larger\u003c\/li\u003e\n\u003c\/ul\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e \u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eOverview\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe Magenta Dottyback (\u003cem\u003ePseudochromis porphyrea\u003c\/em\u003e) is found only in the Red Sea. They’re observed in colonies near vertical walls or ledges, where they dart out to grab a meal from the passing zooplankton, then rush back. In the wild they are found at moderate to deep depths, and look blue rather than the magenta or violet color most aquarists are used to. This is due to the filtering of red light by seawater.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eIn aquariums, Magenta Dottybacks are quite easy to keep and feed. They are small plankton feeders so foods such as brine shrimp, krill and mysid shrimp are perfect. Magenta Dottybacks are moderately territorial and more than one can be kept per tank, as long as the tank has plenty of hiding spaces. Adding multiple small individuals at once will likely result in a spawning harem.\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eNote: Image is a representation of what to expect. The fish you receive may vary slightly in appearance.\u003c\/em\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Summit City Coral","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48042986635547,"sku":null,"price":22.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0246\/5100\/5999\/files\/IMG_5111.jpg?v=1760120874"},{"product_id":"pale-nose-eel","title":"Pale Nose Eel","description":"","brand":"Summit City Coral","offers":[{"title":"Default Title","offer_id":48043395580187,"sku":null,"price":250.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0246\/5100\/5999\/files\/865044C3-1D18-4177-A165-700C9E573509.jpg?v=1724256877"}],"url":"https:\/\/www.summitcitycoral.com\/collections\/qt-fish.oembed?page=9","provider":"Summit City Coral","version":"1.0","type":"link"}