{"product_id":"neon-green-frammer-coral","title":"Neon Green Frammer Coral","description":"\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eQUICK STATS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCare Level:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Easy to Moderate\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCoral Type:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e LPS \/ Frammer Coral \/ Euphyllia-Type Coral\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTemperament:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Semi-Aggressive\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePhotosynthetic:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Yes\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePlacement:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Lower to Middle \/ Rockwork\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eLighting:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Low to Moderate\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWater Flow:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Low to Moderate, Indirect\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eApproximate Purchase Size:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Varies by Frag Size\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eApproximate Max Size:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Colony Growth Depends on Stability, Space, Lighting, Flow, and Feeding\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eNEON GREEN FRAMMER CORAL\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThe \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eNeon Green Frammer Coral\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e is a colorful LPS coral known for its bright green coloration, fleshy tentacles, and soft waving movement in reef aquariums. Depending on the specimen and lighting, it may show neon green, lime green, yellow-green, emerald green, chartreuse, or glowing fluorescent green tones across the tentacles and tips.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eA \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFrammer Coral\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e is generally used in the hobby to describe a hammer\/frogspawn hybrid-style Euphyllia-type coral. It may show traits of both hammer corals and frogspawn corals, often with tentacles that are not perfectly hammer-shaped or perfectly frogspawn-shaped. In plain English: reef people looked at it, saw both, and smashed the names together like language was already beyond saving.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eNeon Green Frammer Coral is popular because it adds bright color, movement, and fleshy LPS texture without usually requiring intense lighting or harsh SPS-style flow. It works well in mixed reefs, Euphyllia gardens, and lower-to-middle rockwork where it can sway gently without being blasted like it owes the wavemaker money.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThe Neon Green Frammer Coral is \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ephotosynthetic\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e and receives much of its energy from reef lighting. It can also benefit from occasional feeding, especially when offered small meaty foods or LPS-appropriate coral foods. Feeding may help support growth, tissue fullness, and new head development.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThis coral is considered \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003esemi-aggressive\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e. Frammer corals can extend sweeper tentacles and may sting nearby corals, especially at night or when crowded. Give it space from neighboring corals, particularly other LPS, soft corals, SPS, and anything you would prefer not to watch slowly lose a territorial dispute.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eNote:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Image is a representation of what to expect. The coral you receive may vary slightly in size, number of heads, branch structure, tentacle shape, green intensity, polyp extension, and overall appearance.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAQUARIUM REQUIREMENTS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAQUARIUM SIZE\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eA minimum aquarium size of \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e20-30 gallons or larger\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e is recommended for Neon Green Frammer Coral, though larger mature reef systems are preferred. Larger aquariums provide better water stability, more placement options, and more room for sweeper tentacles and colony growth.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFrammer corals do not require massive aquariums, but they do appreciate stable reef conditions. Smaller tanks can work, but swings in salinity, alkalinity, nutrients, and temperature happen faster. Convenient, if your hobby goal is turning tiny mistakes into dramatic biological feedback.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePLACEMENT RECOMMENDATIONS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eNeon Green Frammer Coral is best placed in the \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003elower to middle\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e areas of the aquarium where it receives low to moderate lighting and low to moderate indirect flow. It should be secured on rockwork where the fleshy polyps can expand without rubbing against sharp edges or neighboring corals.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eRock Placement:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Place on stable lower-to-middle rockwork with room for full polyp extension.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSandbed Placement:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Temporary sandbed placement can work during acclimation, but long-term placement is usually better on rockwork if the frag is branching and can be secured.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eEuphyllia Garden Placement:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Frammers can often be placed near other hammer or frogspawn-style corals, but space should still be provided. Mixing with torches requires more caution because torches are often more aggressive.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSpacing:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Leave several inches between this coral and nearby corals. Sweeper tentacles can extend beyond the normal polyp size.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAvoid High SPS Zones:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Do not place this coral in intense light and strong direct flow meant for Acropora. That is not premium care. That is LPS harassment with expensive equipment.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWATER PARAMETERS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eNeon Green Frammer Coral is fairly forgiving for an LPS coral, but it still needs stable reef conditions. Stable parameters are more important than chasing exact numbers. Sudden swings can cause poor extension, tissue recession, bleaching, color fading, brown jelly infection risk, or head loss.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTemperature:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 75-79°F\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003epH Level:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 8.1-8.4\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSalinity:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 1.024-1.026 specific gravity\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAlkalinity:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 8-10 dKH\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCalcium:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 400-450 ppm\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eMagnesium:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 1250-1350 ppm\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eNitrate:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 5-15 ppm\u003c\/span\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePhosphate:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e 0.03-0.10 ppm\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFrammer corals often do best in reef systems with some available nutrients rather than ultra-sterile water. Keep nitrate and phosphate detectable but controlled. The goal is “fed reef,” not “nutrient swamp,” which is apparently a distinction humanity must keep relearning.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eLIGHTING\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eNeon Green Frammer Coral prefers \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003elow to moderate lighting\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e. A general target range of \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e50-150 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e works well for many Euphyllia-type corals, with many thriving around \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e75-125 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e once acclimated.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eLIGHTING RECOMMENDATIONS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eLow to Moderate PAR:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Start around \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e50-75 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e if newly added, especially if the coral is freshly shipped or coming from lower light.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTarget Range:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Once settled, many Neon Green Frammer Corals do well around \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e75-125 PAR\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e, with some adapting toward the higher end of moderate lighting.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eGradual Acclimation:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e If moving into stronger light, increase exposure slowly over several days to weeks.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eColor Display:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Neon Green Frammer Coral often shows its best lime, neon green, yellow-green, and fluorescent coloration under moderate reef lighting with a blue-heavy spectrum.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eToo Much Light:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Signs may include bleaching, faded color, retracted tissue, tight polyps, or exposed skeleton.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eToo Little Light:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Signs may include dull coloration, stretching, reduced growth, or weak extension over time.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eDo not place a fresh Neon Green Frammer directly under a light cannon because the green looked radioactive. That is not reef keeping. That is using photons as a blunt instrument.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWATER FLOW\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eNeon Green Frammer Coral prefers \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003elow to moderate indirect flow\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e. The tentacles should sway gently and rhythmically, not whip violently or stay pinned to one side.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFLOW RECOMMENDATIONS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eIdeal Flow:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Low to moderate, indirect, pulsing, or gently varied flow.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAvoid Direct Flow:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Strong direct flow can cause tissue irritation, poor extension, skeleton damage, or tissue recession.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAvoid Dead Spots:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Too little flow can allow detritus to collect between heads or around the skeleton, which may irritate tissue.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eWatch Tentacle Movement:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Healthy flow should make the tentacles move softly. If they are thrashing, folded tightly, or slamming into the skeleton, the flow is too strong.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eColony Growth:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e As the coral grows more heads, flow may need adjustment so the center of the colony does not trap debris.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThe goal is gentle waving, not turning the coral into one of those inflatable tube men outside a used car lot. Reef tanks have suffered enough indignity.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eDIET\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eNeon Green Frammer Coral is \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ephotosynthetic\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e, but it can benefit from occasional feeding. Feeding may help support polyp fullness, growth, new head development, and overall resilience.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePRIMARY DIET\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePhotosynthesis:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Low to moderate reef lighting provides much of the coral’s energy through symbiotic zooxanthellae.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTarget Feeding:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Offer small meaty foods directly to the polyps when feeding response is visible.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFrozen Food:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, finely chopped seafood, reef blends, and other small LPS-appropriate frozen foods can be used.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePrepared Coral Foods:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e LPS pellets, powdered coral foods, and suspended coral nutrition may be accepted.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAmino Acids \/ Coral Nutrition:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Amino acids and LPS coral supplements can be used carefully in established systems.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eParticle Size:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Use small foods. Large chunks may be rejected or rot against the tissue, because even coral apparently has standards.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFEEDING FREQUENCY\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFeed \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e1-2 times per week\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e if desired. Frammer corals do not need heavy feeding, and overfeeding can raise nutrients or irritate the coral.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTurn down flow briefly during feeding if needed. Restore normal flow after the coral has had time to capture food.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCOMPATIBILITY\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eNeon Green Frammer Coral works well in mixed reef and LPS-focused aquariums when placed with proper spacing, moderate lighting, and gentle indirect flow.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCOMMON TANK MATES\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFish:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Reef-safe fish such as clownfish, gobies, blennies, wrasses, cardinalfish, firefish, tangs, anthias, and other peaceful to semi-peaceful community fish.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAvoid:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Fish known to nip fleshy LPS corals, such as some angelfish, butterflyfish, puffers, filefish, and certain triggers.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eInvertebrates:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Generally safe with cleaner shrimp, snails, hermit crabs, and other common reef invertebrates. Some shrimp may steal food during target feeding because apparently tiny crustacean crime is part of the package.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCoral:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Keep away from aggressive corals such as torches, galaxea, favias, chalices, hydnophora, acans, and other stinging LPS.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eEuphyllia Neighbors:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Frammers can often be kept near hammer or frogspawn-style Euphyllia-type corals, but spacing is still recommended. Torches should be given extra room.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSPS Nearby:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Avoid placing SPS too close. Frammer coral sweepers and tissue expansion can damage nearby SPS.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eBEHAVIORAL NOTES\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTemperament:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Semi-aggressive. Frammer corals can extend sweeper tentacles and sting nearby corals.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eGrowth Pattern:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Usually seen as a branching Euphyllia-type coral with separate heads. Branching forms are generally easier to manage and frag than wall-style Euphyllia.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eHybrid-Style Appearance:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Frammer corals may show tentacle traits between hammer and frogspawn corals, with branching heads and irregular rounded, split, or hammer-like tips.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eColoration:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e May show neon green, lime green, yellow-green, emerald green, chartreuse, or fluorescent green depending on lighting, nutrients, stability, and photography conditions.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePolyp Extension:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Healthy frammers should expand fully once settled. Poor extension may indicate too much flow, too much light, unstable parameters, pests, irritation, or nearby aggression.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTentacle Shape:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Tentacle tips may look partly hammer-like, partly frogspawn-like, or irregular depending on the individual colony.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSweeper Tentacles:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Sweeper tentacles may appear at night or during aggression. Leave enough space around the coral.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eSkeleton Safety:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Avoid placing fleshy tissue against sharp rock edges or exposed skeleton.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eBrown Jelly Risk:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Like other Euphyllia-type corals, frammers can be vulnerable to brown jelly infections, especially after damage, stress, or tissue injury. Rapid tissue loss should be addressed quickly.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eHead Splitting:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Branching frammers may develop new heads or split existing heads when growing well.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eDipping:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Coral dipping before introduction is strongly recommended. Use coral-safe dips according to product directions and inspect the skeleton and plug closely.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePest Awareness:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Inspect carefully for flatworms, nudibranchs, algae, vermetid snails, sponge growth, and other hitchhikers before placing into the display.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFrag Handling:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e Handle by the plug, base, or skeleton whenever possible. Avoid touching, squeezing, or tearing the fleshy polyps.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePlacement Reality:\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e This coral can become a bright green LPS showpiece, but it needs space. Frammer corals look soft and graceful, then sting their neighbors like tiny glowing legal disputes.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003cdiv\u003e\u003chr\u003e\u003c\/div\u003e\n\u003ch1\u003e\u003cspan\u003eACCLIMATION PROCESS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h1\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eThis acclimation method helps reduce stress by gradually introducing the coral to your aquarium’s temperature, lighting, and water chemistry.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e1. DIM THE LIGHTS\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eTurn down aquarium lights or place the coral in a shaded lower area at first. This helps reduce stress while the coral adjusts.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e2. FLOAT THE BAG\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eFloat the sealed bag in the aquarium for \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e15-20 minutes\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e to allow the temperature in the bag to equalize with the tank.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e3. OPEN BAG, ADD CORAL TO CONTAINER\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eCarefully open the bag and transfer the coral and shipping water into a clean container. Handle the coral by the plug, base, or skeleton rather than touching or squeezing the fleshy polyps.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e4. ACCLIMATE USING TANK WATER\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAdd small amounts of tank water to the container every few minutes for \u003c\/span\u003e\u003cstrong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e20-30 minutes\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/strong\u003e\u003cspan\u003e. Avoid exposing the coral tissue to air longer than necessary.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e5. CORAL DIP\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003eUse a coral-safe dip according to the product instructions. Inspect carefully for pests, algae, sponge growth, vermetid snails, tissue damage, and hitchhikers before the coral enters your aquarium.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e6. TRANSFER CORAL TO AQUARIUM\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp class=\"isSelectedEnd\"\u003e\u003cspan\u003ePlace the coral in a lower-to-moderate light area with gentle indirect flow at first. Discard the shipping and dip water. Do not pour shipping water or dip water into your aquarium.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e\n\u003ch2\u003e\u003cspan\u003e7. LIGHT ACCLIMATE\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/h2\u003e\n\u003cp\u003e\u003cspan\u003eAllow the coral to adjust gradually over several days to weeks before moving it into brighter light. Watch for polyp extension, tissue inflation, neon green coloration, feeding response, and new head growth before making major placement changes.\u003c\/span\u003e\u003c\/p\u003e","brand":"Summit City Coral","offers":[{"title":"1 Head Frag","offer_id":52323553247515,"sku":null,"price":40.0,"currency_code":"USD","in_stock":false}],"thumbnail_url":"\/\/cdn.shopify.com\/s\/files\/1\/0246\/5100\/5999\/files\/IMG_1092_1.jpg?v=1781059569","url":"https:\/\/www.summitcitycoral.com\/products\/neon-green-frammer-coral","provider":"Summit City Coral","version":"1.0","type":"link"}