QUICK STATS

Care Level: Easy to Moderate
Coral Type: LPS / Frammer Coral / Euphyllia-Type Coral
Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
Photosynthetic: Yes
Placement: Lower to Middle / Rockwork
Lighting: Low to Moderate
Water Flow: Low to Moderate, Indirect
Approximate Purchase Size: Varies by Frag Size
Approximate Max Size: Colony Growth Depends on Stability, Space, Lighting, Flow, and Feeding

NEON GREEN FRAMMER CORAL

The Neon Green Frammer Coral is a colorful LPS coral known for its bright green coloration, fleshy tentacles, and soft waving movement in reef aquariums. Depending on the specimen and lighting, it may show neon green, lime green, yellow-green, emerald green, chartreuse, or glowing fluorescent green tones across the tentacles and tips.

A Frammer Coral is generally used in the hobby to describe a hammer/frogspawn hybrid-style Euphyllia-type coral. It may show traits of both hammer corals and frogspawn corals, often with tentacles that are not perfectly hammer-shaped or perfectly frogspawn-shaped. In plain English: reef people looked at it, saw both, and smashed the names together like language was already beyond saving.

Neon Green Frammer Coral is popular because it adds bright color, movement, and fleshy LPS texture without usually requiring intense lighting or harsh SPS-style flow. It works well in mixed reefs, Euphyllia gardens, and lower-to-middle rockwork where it can sway gently without being blasted like it owes the wavemaker money.

The Neon Green Frammer Coral is photosynthetic and receives much of its energy from reef lighting. It can also benefit from occasional feeding, especially when offered small meaty foods or LPS-appropriate coral foods. Feeding may help support growth, tissue fullness, and new head development.

This coral is considered semi-aggressive. Frammer corals can extend sweeper tentacles and may sting nearby corals, especially at night or when crowded. Give it space from neighboring corals, particularly other LPS, soft corals, SPS, and anything you would prefer not to watch slowly lose a territorial dispute.

Note: Image is a representation of what to expect. The coral you receive may vary slightly in size, number of heads, branch structure, tentacle shape, green intensity, polyp extension, and overall appearance.

AQUARIUM REQUIREMENTS

AQUARIUM SIZE

A minimum aquarium size of 20-30 gallons or larger is recommended for Neon Green Frammer Coral, though larger mature reef systems are preferred. Larger aquariums provide better water stability, more placement options, and more room for sweeper tentacles and colony growth.

Frammer corals do not require massive aquariums, but they do appreciate stable reef conditions. Smaller tanks can work, but swings in salinity, alkalinity, nutrients, and temperature happen faster. Convenient, if your hobby goal is turning tiny mistakes into dramatic biological feedback.

PLACEMENT RECOMMENDATIONS

Neon Green Frammer Coral is best placed in the lower to middle areas of the aquarium where it receives low to moderate lighting and low to moderate indirect flow. It should be secured on rockwork where the fleshy polyps can expand without rubbing against sharp edges or neighboring corals.

Rock Placement: Place on stable lower-to-middle rockwork with room for full polyp extension.

Sandbed Placement: Temporary sandbed placement can work during acclimation, but long-term placement is usually better on rockwork if the frag is branching and can be secured.

Euphyllia Garden Placement: Frammers can often be placed near other hammer or frogspawn-style corals, but space should still be provided. Mixing with torches requires more caution because torches are often more aggressive.

Spacing: Leave several inches between this coral and nearby corals. Sweeper tentacles can extend beyond the normal polyp size.

Avoid High SPS Zones: Do not place this coral in intense light and strong direct flow meant for Acropora. That is not premium care. That is LPS harassment with expensive equipment.

WATER PARAMETERS

Neon Green Frammer Coral is fairly forgiving for an LPS coral, but it still needs stable reef conditions. Stable parameters are more important than chasing exact numbers. Sudden swings can cause poor extension, tissue recession, bleaching, color fading, brown jelly infection risk, or head loss.

Temperature: 75-79°F
pH Level: 8.1-8.4
Salinity: 1.024-1.026 specific gravity
Alkalinity: 8-10 dKH
Calcium: 400-450 ppm
Magnesium: 1250-1350 ppm
Nitrate: 5-15 ppm
Phosphate: 0.03-0.10 ppm

Frammer corals often do best in reef systems with some available nutrients rather than ultra-sterile water. Keep nitrate and phosphate detectable but controlled. The goal is “fed reef,” not “nutrient swamp,” which is apparently a distinction humanity must keep relearning.

LIGHTING

Neon Green Frammer Coral prefers low to moderate lighting. A general target range of 50-150 PAR works well for many Euphyllia-type corals, with many thriving around 75-125 PAR once acclimated.

LIGHTING RECOMMENDATIONS

Low to Moderate PAR: Start around 50-75 PAR if newly added, especially if the coral is freshly shipped or coming from lower light.

Target Range: Once settled, many Neon Green Frammer Corals do well around 75-125 PAR, with some adapting toward the higher end of moderate lighting.

Gradual Acclimation: If moving into stronger light, increase exposure slowly over several days to weeks.

Color Display: Neon Green Frammer Coral often shows its best lime, neon green, yellow-green, and fluorescent coloration under moderate reef lighting with a blue-heavy spectrum.

Too Much Light: Signs may include bleaching, faded color, retracted tissue, tight polyps, or exposed skeleton.

Too Little Light: Signs may include dull coloration, stretching, reduced growth, or weak extension over time.

Do not place a fresh Neon Green Frammer directly under a light cannon because the green looked radioactive. That is not reef keeping. That is using photons as a blunt instrument.

WATER FLOW

Neon Green Frammer Coral prefers low to moderate indirect flow. The tentacles should sway gently and rhythmically, not whip violently or stay pinned to one side.

FLOW RECOMMENDATIONS

Ideal Flow: Low to moderate, indirect, pulsing, or gently varied flow.

Avoid Direct Flow: Strong direct flow can cause tissue irritation, poor extension, skeleton damage, or tissue recession.

Avoid Dead Spots: Too little flow can allow detritus to collect between heads or around the skeleton, which may irritate tissue.

Watch Tentacle Movement: Healthy flow should make the tentacles move softly. If they are thrashing, folded tightly, or slamming into the skeleton, the flow is too strong.

Colony Growth: As the coral grows more heads, flow may need adjustment so the center of the colony does not trap debris.

The goal is gentle waving, not turning the coral into one of those inflatable tube men outside a used car lot. Reef tanks have suffered enough indignity.

DIET

Neon Green Frammer Coral is photosynthetic, but it can benefit from occasional feeding. Feeding may help support polyp fullness, growth, new head development, and overall resilience.

PRIMARY DIET

Photosynthesis: Low to moderate reef lighting provides much of the coral’s energy through symbiotic zooxanthellae.

Target Feeding: Offer small meaty foods directly to the polyps when feeding response is visible.

Frozen Food: Mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, finely chopped seafood, reef blends, and other small LPS-appropriate frozen foods can be used.

Prepared Coral Foods: LPS pellets, powdered coral foods, and suspended coral nutrition may be accepted.

Amino Acids / Coral Nutrition: Amino acids and LPS coral supplements can be used carefully in established systems.

Particle Size: Use small foods. Large chunks may be rejected or rot against the tissue, because even coral apparently has standards.

FEEDING FREQUENCY

Feed 1-2 times per week if desired. Frammer corals do not need heavy feeding, and overfeeding can raise nutrients or irritate the coral.

Turn down flow briefly during feeding if needed. Restore normal flow after the coral has had time to capture food.

COMPATIBILITY

Neon Green Frammer Coral works well in mixed reef and LPS-focused aquariums when placed with proper spacing, moderate lighting, and gentle indirect flow.

COMMON TANK MATES

Fish: Reef-safe fish such as clownfish, gobies, blennies, wrasses, cardinalfish, firefish, tangs, anthias, and other peaceful to semi-peaceful community fish.

Avoid: Fish known to nip fleshy LPS corals, such as some angelfish, butterflyfish, puffers, filefish, and certain triggers.

Invertebrates: Generally safe with cleaner shrimp, snails, hermit crabs, and other common reef invertebrates. Some shrimp may steal food during target feeding because apparently tiny crustacean crime is part of the package.

Coral: Keep away from aggressive corals such as torches, galaxea, favias, chalices, hydnophora, acans, and other stinging LPS.

Euphyllia Neighbors: Frammers can often be kept near hammer or frogspawn-style Euphyllia-type corals, but spacing is still recommended. Torches should be given extra room.

SPS Nearby: Avoid placing SPS too close. Frammer coral sweepers and tissue expansion can damage nearby SPS.

BEHAVIORAL NOTES

Temperament: Semi-aggressive. Frammer corals can extend sweeper tentacles and sting nearby corals.

Growth Pattern: Usually seen as a branching Euphyllia-type coral with separate heads. Branching forms are generally easier to manage and frag than wall-style Euphyllia.

Hybrid-Style Appearance: Frammer corals may show tentacle traits between hammer and frogspawn corals, with branching heads and irregular rounded, split, or hammer-like tips.

Coloration: May show neon green, lime green, yellow-green, emerald green, chartreuse, or fluorescent green depending on lighting, nutrients, stability, and photography conditions.

Polyp Extension: Healthy frammers should expand fully once settled. Poor extension may indicate too much flow, too much light, unstable parameters, pests, irritation, or nearby aggression.

Tentacle Shape: Tentacle tips may look partly hammer-like, partly frogspawn-like, or irregular depending on the individual colony.

Sweeper Tentacles: Sweeper tentacles may appear at night or during aggression. Leave enough space around the coral.

Skeleton Safety: Avoid placing fleshy tissue against sharp rock edges or exposed skeleton.

Brown Jelly Risk: Like other Euphyllia-type corals, frammers can be vulnerable to brown jelly infections, especially after damage, stress, or tissue injury. Rapid tissue loss should be addressed quickly.

Head Splitting: Branching frammers may develop new heads or split existing heads when growing well.

Dipping: Coral dipping before introduction is strongly recommended. Use coral-safe dips according to product directions and inspect the skeleton and plug closely.

Pest Awareness: Inspect carefully for flatworms, nudibranchs, algae, vermetid snails, sponge growth, and other hitchhikers before placing into the display.

Frag Handling: Handle by the plug, base, or skeleton whenever possible. Avoid touching, squeezing, or tearing the fleshy polyps.

Placement Reality: This coral can become a bright green LPS showpiece, but it needs space. Frammer corals look soft and graceful, then sting their neighbors like tiny glowing legal disputes.

ACCLIMATION PROCESS

This acclimation method helps reduce stress by gradually introducing the coral to your aquarium’s temperature, lighting, and water chemistry.

1. DIM THE LIGHTS

Turn down aquarium lights or place the coral in a shaded lower area at first. This helps reduce stress while the coral adjusts.

2. FLOAT THE BAG

Float the sealed bag in the aquarium for 15-20 minutes to allow the temperature in the bag to equalize with the tank.

3. OPEN BAG, ADD CORAL TO CONTAINER

Carefully open the bag and transfer the coral and shipping water into a clean container. Handle the coral by the plug, base, or skeleton rather than touching or squeezing the fleshy polyps.

4. ACCLIMATE USING TANK WATER

Add small amounts of tank water to the container every few minutes for 20-30 minutes. Avoid exposing the coral tissue to air longer than necessary.

5. CORAL DIP

Use a coral-safe dip according to the product instructions. Inspect carefully for pests, algae, sponge growth, vermetid snails, tissue damage, and hitchhikers before the coral enters your aquarium.

6. TRANSFER CORAL TO AQUARIUM

Place the coral in a lower-to-moderate light area with gentle indirect flow at first. Discard the shipping and dip water. Do not pour shipping water or dip water into your aquarium.

7. LIGHT ACCLIMATE

Allow the coral to adjust gradually over several days to weeks before moving it into brighter light. Watch for polyp extension, tissue inflation, neon green coloration, feeding response, and new head growth before making major placement changes.