QUICK STATS

Care Level: Easy to Moderate
Coral Type: LPS / Plate Coral
Temperament: Semi-Aggressive
Photosynthetic: Yes
Placement: Sandbed
Lighting: Low to Moderate
Water Flow: Low to Moderate, Indirect
Approximate Purchase Size: Varies by Coral Size
Approximate Max Size: Depends on Species, Stability, Feeding, and Available Sandbed Space

GREEN TIP BLUE PLATE CORAL

The Green Tip Blue Plate Coral is a colorful free-living LPS coral known for its round to oval disc shape, fleshy tissue, and contrasting blue body with green-tipped tentacles. Depending on the specimen and lighting, the base may appear blue, teal, blue-green, purple-blue, gray-blue, or metallic blue, while the tentacles or oral disc accents may show green, neon green, yellow-green, or teal-green highlights.

Plate corals are popular because they make excellent sandbed showpieces. Unlike many corals that encrust or permanently attach to rockwork, many plate corals are free-living and naturally sit on sandy or rubble-covered reef zones. Basically, it is a colorful reef dinner plate that insists on floor seating, because apparently even coral has venue preferences.

The Green Tip Blue Plate Coral is photosynthetic and receives much of its energy from reef lighting through its symbiotic zooxanthellae. It can also benefit from occasional feeding with small meaty foods, especially in lower-light systems or when recovering from stress.

This coral is considered semi-aggressive. Plate corals can sting nearby corals, inflate their tissue, move slightly over time, and send out feeding tentacles when food is present. It may look like a calm little disc on the sandbed, but it still has LPS attitude tucked underneath all that color.

Note: Image is a representation of what to expect. The coral you receive may vary slightly in size, shape, color intensity, tentacle length, mouth structure, green tip coloration, and overall appearance.

AQUARIUM REQUIREMENTS

AQUARIUM SIZE

A minimum aquarium size of 20 gallons or larger is recommended for a Green Tip Blue Plate Coral. Smaller mature aquariums can work, but larger systems provide better water stability and more sandbed space.

Plate corals need open sandbed room to expand and avoid contact with sharp rock or aggressive neighbors. They do not need towering aquascapes or dramatic coral cliffs. They need a stable sandy spot where they can sit there looking expensive, which is apparently a valid lifestyle.

PLACEMENT RECOMMENDATIONS

The Green Tip Blue Plate Coral is best placed directly on the sandbed in an area with low to moderate lighting and gentle to moderate indirect flow. Avoid placing it high on rockwork, where it may fall, tear tissue, or become irritated.

Sandbed Placement: Best long-term placement. Choose a clean, open sandbed area where the coral can expand without rubbing against rock or other corals.

Rock Placement: Not recommended for most plate corals. Sharp rock edges can damage the underside or fleshy tissue, and falls can crack or injure the skeleton.

Spacing: Leave several inches of space around the coral. Plate corals can inflate, extend feeding tentacles, and sting nearby corals.

Movement: Some plate corals can slowly shift position by inflating, contracting, or reacting to flow. Do not wedge them tightly between rocks unless you enjoy turning coral placement into a tiny hostage situation.

Substrate: Fine to medium sand is ideal. Avoid placing directly on coarse rubble or sharp crushed coral if the underside may be irritated.

WATER PARAMETERS

The Green Tip Blue Plate Coral does best in clean, stable reef conditions. Stability is more important than chasing perfect numbers. Sudden swings in alkalinity, salinity, nutrients, or temperature can cause tissue recession, poor expansion, bleaching, or stress.

Temperature: 75-79°F
pH Level: 8.1-8.4
Salinity: 1.024-1.026 specific gravity
Alkalinity: 8-10 dKH
Calcium: 400-450 ppm
Magnesium: 1250-1350 ppm
Nitrate: 2-15 ppm
Phosphate: 0.03-0.10 ppm

Avoid ultra-low nutrient systems. Plate corals can do well in clean aquariums, but a completely stripped reef may cause pale coloration, weak feeding response, or poor tissue health. “Clean” and “starved” are still different words, despite reef keepers constantly trying to make them roommates.

LIGHTING

The Green Tip Blue Plate Coral generally prefers low to moderate lighting. It can adapt to moderate light, but sudden increases should be avoided.

LIGHTING RECOMMENDATIONS

Low to Moderate PAR: A general target range of 50-150 PAR works well for many plate corals.

Light Acclimation: New plate corals should be acclimated gradually to your lighting. Start lower or partially shaded, then adjust slowly based on coloration, expansion, and feeding response.

Color Display: Blue and green coloration often shows best under blue-heavy reef lighting, especially when the coral is inflated and tentacles are visible.

Too Much Light: Signs may include bleaching, fading, tissue recession, reduced expansion, or staying tightly contracted.

Too Little Light: Signs may include dull coloration, reduced feeding response, weak inflation, or slow decline over time.

Do not place a fresh Green Tip Blue Plate directly under intense lighting because the blue looked nice in a vendor photo. That is not coral care. That is photon-based optimism with a sandbed.

WATER FLOW

The Green Tip Blue Plate Coral prefers low to moderate, indirect water flow. Flow should be enough to keep detritus from settling heavily on the coral, but not so strong that the tissue is folded, lifted, or constantly blasted.

FLOW RECOMMENDATIONS

Ideal Flow: Low to moderate, indirect flow that gently moves water across the coral without forcing tissue against the skeleton.

Avoid Strong Direct Flow: Strong direct flow can cause the coral to stay retracted, shift around the sandbed, or expose/damage tissue.

Avoid Dead Spots: Too little flow can allow detritus or sand to collect on the coral’s tissue.

Watch Tissue Inflation: A healthy plate coral should inflate naturally and sit comfortably on the sandbed. If the tissue is constantly folded, peeling, or being pushed hard to one side, flow is probably too strong.

If sand or debris collects on the coral, gently increase indirect flow or carefully clear the debris. Do not blast it with a turkey baster like you are pressure-washing a patio. It is a coral, not outdoor furniture.

DIET

The Green Tip Blue Plate Coral is photosynthetic, meaning it receives much of its energy from light through its symbiotic zooxanthellae. It also benefits from occasional feeding with small meaty foods.

PRIMARY DIET

Photosynthesis: Proper low to moderate lighting provides much of the coral’s energy.

Target Feeding: Small pieces of mysis shrimp, brine shrimp, finely chopped marine foods, LPS pellets, or other small meaty foods may be offered.

Broadcast Feeding: The coral may capture small particles during regular fish and coral feeding.

Amino Acids / Coral Nutrition: Supplemental coral nutrition can be used carefully in established systems, especially when nutrients are controlled but not stripped.

FEEDING FREQUENCY

Feed lightly 1-2 times per week if desired. Plate corals often show a strong feeding response when food is present, especially after lights dim or during regular feeding.

Avoid oversized food. If the coral has to spend half the evening trying to swallow something ridiculous, that is not enrichment. That is reef keeper nonsense with tweezers.

COMPATIBILITY

The Green Tip Blue Plate Coral works well in many mixed reef aquariums when placed on the sandbed with enough space from neighboring corals. It should not be crowded by aggressive LPS or fast-growing soft corals.

COMMON TANK MATES

Fish: Reef-safe fish such as clownfish, gobies, blennies, wrasses, tangs, cardinalfish, firefish, anthias, and other peaceful to semi-peaceful community fish.

Avoid: Fish known to nip fleshy LPS corals, such as some angelfish, butterflyfish, filefish, puffers, and certain triggers.

Invertebrates: Generally safe with cleaner shrimp, snails, hermit crabs, and most common reef invertebrates. Large hermits, urchins, or bulldozing snails may disturb or move the coral.

Coral: Keep away from aggressive neighboring corals, including torches, hammers, frogspawn, galaxea, favias, chalices, acans, and other stinging LPS.

Sandbed Neighbors: Leave open space from scolys, trachys, acanthos, wellsophyllia, elegance corals, and other fleshy sandbed LPS. The sandbed is not a coral parking lot, despite humanity’s ongoing attempts to make it one.

BEHAVIORAL NOTES

Temperament: Semi-aggressive. Plate corals can sting nearby corals and may extend feeding tentacles.

Growth Pattern: Free-living round to oval LPS coral with a hard skeleton and fleshy tissue.

Placement Behavior: Many plate corals prefer sandbed placement and should not be glued or wedged into rockwork.

Movement: Some plate corals can shift slightly over time by inflating and contracting tissue.

Coloration: Blue coloration may appear teal, blue-green, metallic blue, purple-blue, gray-blue, or deep blue depending on lighting, stress, nutrients, and photography conditions.

Green Tips: Green tips may appear neon green, yellow-green, teal-green, mint, or fluorescent depending on the specimen and lighting.

Feeding Response: Healthy plate corals may extend tentacles and move food toward the mouth when feeding.

Tissue Safety: Avoid allowing the fleshy tissue to rub against rock, frag racks, sharp rubble, or other coral skeletons.

Inflation: Plate corals may inflate significantly when happy, feeding, or adjusting position.

Skeleton Damage: Cracks, sharp edges, or exposed skeleton can lead to tissue recession or infection.

Regeneration: Some plate corals can produce small daughter colonies from damaged skeletons, but that is not a care strategy. That is coral survival theater after humans or nature did something rude.

Frag Handling: Handle by the underside or skeleton edge carefully. Avoid touching or pressing the fleshy tissue.

Dipping: Coral dipping before introduction is recommended to reduce pests and contaminants. Use coral-safe dips according to product directions.

Pest Awareness: Inspect for flatworms, nudibranchs, algae, vermetid snails, or other hitchhikers before placing into the display.

Placement Reality: This coral is a great option for adding blue and green color to the sandbed. Just remember it needs room to inflate, feed, and exist without being assaulted by every nearby coral with tentacles and ambition.

ACCLIMATION PROCESS

This acclimation method helps reduce stress by gradually introducing the coral to your aquarium’s temperature, lighting, and water chemistry.

1. DIM THE LIGHTS

Turn down aquarium lights or place the coral in a shaded lower area at first. This helps reduce stress while the coral adjusts.

2. FLOAT THE BAG

Float the sealed bag in the aquarium for 15-20 minutes to allow the temperature in the bag to equalize with the tank.

3. OPEN BAG, ADD CORAL TO CONTAINER

Carefully open the bag and transfer the coral and shipping water into a clean container. Handle the coral by the skeleton edge or underside rather than pressing on the fleshy tissue.

4. ACCLIMATE USING TANK WATER

Add small amounts of tank water to the container every few minutes for 20-30 minutes. Avoid exposing the coral tissue to air longer than necessary.

5. CORAL DIP

Use a coral-safe dip according to the product instructions. This can help reduce pests and contaminants before the coral enters your aquarium.

6. TRANSFER CORAL TO AQUARIUM

Place the coral directly on the sandbed in a low to moderate flow area. Discard the shipping and dip water. Do not pour shipping water or dip water into your aquarium.

7. LIGHT ACCLIMATE

Allow the coral to adjust gradually over several days to weeks before moving it into brighter light. Watch for tissue inflation, coloration, feeding response, and overall tissue health before making major placement changes.