QUICK STATS

Care Level: Easy to Moderate
Diet: Herbivore / Omnivore
Temperament: Peaceful to Mildly Territorial
Reef-Safe: Yes, With Caution
Venomous/Toxic: No
Approximate Purchase Size: 2-4"
Approximate Max Size: Around 5-6"
Recommended Tank Size: 30-55 Gallons or Larger

RED STARRY BLENNY

The Red Starry Scooter Blenny (Salarias ramosus variant) is a hardy reef-safe blenny known for its mottled body pattern, expressive face, perching behavior, and algae-grazing habits. The “red” name generally refers to warmer reddish, rust, or brown tones in the body coloration compared to the more commonly seen gray-brown Starry Blenny. Exact coloration can vary between individuals, lighting, stress level, and collection location, because apparently even blennies decided consistency was optional.

Red Starry Scooter Blennies are full of personality and are often seen perching on rockwork, hopping across the aquascape, and grazing on film algae or microalgae throughout the day. They are not constant open-water swimmers. They are more like tiny reef gargoyles with eyebrows, opinions, and a part-time algae job.

This species is generally considered reef-safe, but like many algae-grazing blennies, it should be listed with some caution. Most individuals leave corals alone, but occasional nipping at fleshy coral tissue, clam mantles, or coral mucus can happen, especially if the fish is underfed or kept in a very clean aquarium with limited grazing. Reef-safe, yes. Completely free of fine print, absolutely not. This hobby would collapse without fine print.

Note: Image is a representation of what to expect. The fish you receive may vary slightly in size, color, pattern, red/orange intensity, and overall appearance.

AQUARIUM REQUIREMENTS

AQUARIUM SIZE

A minimum tank size of 30 gallons or larger can work for a Red Starry Blenny, though 55 gallons or larger is preferred for adult specimens, community tanks, or aquariums with limited natural algae growth.

While this fish is not a large open-water swimmer, it still benefits from mature live rock, grazing surfaces, and enough territory to reduce aggression toward similar fish. A larger aquarium also provides more natural food availability and better long-term stability.

HABITAT RECOMMENDATIONS

Red Starry Blennies do best in established aquariums with plenty of live rock, hiding places, and natural grazing surfaces.

Aquascaping: Provide live rock, caves, ledges, and open areas for perching. Blennies enjoy hopping from rock to rock and watching the aquarium like tiny judgmental retirees.

Substrate: Sand, fine aragonite, crushed coral, or bare-bottom systems can all work. This species does not depend heavily on the sandbed.

Rockwork: Live rock is strongly recommended. It provides shelter, territory, biological filtration, and natural grazing surfaces.

Tank Maturity: A mature aquarium is preferred, especially one with film algae and biofilm growth. Very new or overly sterile aquariums may not provide enough natural grazing.

Tank Cover: A tight-fitting lid is recommended. Blennies can jump, because apparently even rock-perching fish sometimes decide to test the ceiling situation.

WATER PARAMETERS

Red Starry Blennies are generally hardy once established, but they still need clean, stable marine conditions. “Algae eater” does not mean “immune to water-quality nonsense,” despite humanity’s repeated attempt to outsource husbandry to fish.

Temperature: 72-78°F
pH Level: 8.1-8.4
Salinity: 1.020-1.026 specific gravity
Ammonia, Nitrite, and Nitrate: Ammonia and nitrite should remain undetectable. Nitrate should be kept as low as reasonably possible, ideally below 20 ppm.
Water Flow: Low to moderate flow is ideal. Provide enough water movement to keep the aquarium oxygenated and move waste toward filtration, while still allowing calmer areas for resting and perching.

DIET

Red Starry Blennies are primarily herbivorous grazers, though they may accept a variety of omnivore foods in the aquarium. A diet rich in algae-based foods is important for maintaining body weight, digestion, and long-term health.

PRIMARY DIET

Frozen Food: Offer algae-rich frozen blends, mysis shrimp, enriched brine shrimp, marine blends, and other small frozen foods. We at Summit City Coral prefer frozen foods such as LRS Herbivore Frenzy and PE Mysis.

Prepared Herbivore Foods: High-quality herbivore pellets, spirulina flakes, marine algae pellets, and omnivore blends can help provide balanced nutrition.

Algae-Based Foods: Nori, seaweed sheets, spirulina, algae wafers, herbivore blends, and marine algae foods should be offered regularly. Some individuals may take time to recognize seaweed sheets as food, because apparently the green rectangle needs a marketing campaign.

Natural Grazing: Established live rock with film algae, microalgae, and biofilm helps support natural feeding behavior. This should be viewed as supplemental, not the entire feeding plan. A blenny is not a free algae-control subscription with eyeballs.

FEEDING FREQUENCY

Feed small amounts 1-2 times per day, with algae-based foods offered regularly. Watch body condition closely, especially in newer or very clean aquariums where natural grazing may be limited.

COMPATIBILITY

Red Starry Blennies are generally peaceful, but they may become territorial toward similar-shaped fish, especially other blennies or algae-grazing bottom/rock-dwellers. They work best in peaceful to semi-peaceful reef aquariums with plenty of rockwork and hiding areas.

COMMON TANK MATES

Fish: Clownfish, cardinalfish, firefish, gobies, peaceful wrasses, chromis, dwarf angelfish, tangs in larger aquariums, rabbitfish, foxfaces, and other peaceful community fish.

Avoid: Other blennies in smaller aquariums, similarly shaped algae grazers in cramped systems, aggressive dottybacks, aggressive damsels, large predatory fish, triggers, groupers, lionfish, and fish likely to bully or eat them.

Same Species: Best kept singly unless the aquarium is large enough and the fish are a bonded pair. Multiple similar blennies may fight over territory.

Invertebrates: Usually safe with cleaner shrimp, hermit crabs, snails, urchins, and most common reef invertebrates.

Coral: Red Starry Blennies are generally considered reef-safe with caution. They usually ignore soft corals, LPS, SPS, zoanthids, mushrooms, and anemones, but occasional nipping can happen, especially if underfed or if the fish develops a taste for coral mucus or clam mantles.

BEHAVIORAL NOTES

Temperament: Peaceful to mildly territorial. May defend a favorite cave, perch, or section of rockwork.

Perching Behavior: Frequently rests on rocks, ledges, coral skeletons, and aquarium surfaces. Blennies often appear to “hop” around because they are not built like constant open-water swimmers.

Grazing Behavior: Spends time picking at film algae, microalgae, and biofilm on rock and aquarium surfaces.

Reef Compatibility: Good for most reef tanks, but best listed as reef-safe with caution due to the small possibility of coral or clam mantle nipping.

Territoriality: May show aggression toward other blennies, gobies, or similarly shaped grazing fish in smaller aquariums.

Coloration: Typically shows a mottled starry pattern with warmer reddish, rust, orange-brown, or dark brown tones depending on the individual. Color may shift with mood, lighting, stress, and maturity.

Algae Control: Can help with film algae and some soft algae growth, but should not be expected to solve a major algae outbreak alone. That is a nutrient-management problem, not a blenny staffing shortage.

Feeding Risk: Very clean tanks may not provide enough natural grazing. Offer regular algae-based and prepared foods to keep the fish healthy.

Personality: Often bold, curious, and highly visible once settled. Many individuals become favorite “character fish” in reef aquariums, which is impressive considering their main hobbies are sitting and chewing.

Jumping: A tight-fitting lid is recommended. Small blennies can and will make theatrical little mistakes if given the opportunity.

ACCLIMATION PROCESS

This acclimation method helps reduce stress by gradually introducing the fish to your aquarium’s temperature and water chemistry.

1. TURN OFF THE LIGHTS & ATO

Turn off aquarium lights to reduce stress. If you have an Auto Top Off system, switch it off before starting acclimation.

2. FLOAT THE BAG

Float the sealed bag in the aquarium for 15-20 minutes to allow the temperature in the bag to equalize with the tank.

3. OPEN BAG, ADD FISH TO CONTAINER

Carefully open the bag and transfer the fish and shipping water into a clean bucket or container.

4. ACCLIMATE USING TANK WATER

Add 1/4 cup of tank water to the container every 5 minutes for 40 minutes.

5. TRANSFER FISH TO AQUARIUM

Once acclimation is complete, gently transfer the fish into the aquarium using a net or specimen container. Discard the shipping water. Do not pour shipping water into your aquarium.

6. REFILL THE AQUARIUM WITH SALTWATER

You may need to replace the saltwater removed during acclimation with fresh mixed saltwater.